My parking brake shoes had been contaminated with gear lube from a leaking rear axle seal. I'd cleaned them thoroughly with brake cleaner, but some residue will remain. I never use the parking brake, but it needs to work to pass Utah's vehicle inspection. When it was only the driver's side that was contaminated there was enough breaking force to pass the inspection. I had to replace the seal on the passenger side last year and no matter how much I adjusted the brakes they just wouldn't hold any more.
I got a new set of shoes from Amazon for about $22, and got ready to do the job when I recall reading how some people had great difficulty dealing with the springs that hold the shoes together. If you've replaced brake shoes on a vehicle with rear drums you might think this job is similar, and you'd be wrong. Even the factory manual is kind of unclear on the exact procedure so I decided to take pictures as I did the job, and include some narrative.
For the first part of the job please follow my the link to my DIY post on changing the rear axle seal: http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/71-information-place/19-do-yourself-useful-articles-product-reviews/84927-detailed-directions-changing-rear-axle-seal-photos.html
Follow the steps shown to remove the wheel, caliper, rotor, axle, and hub. Here is what things will look like at this point:
![Image]()
And a close up of the adjuster:
![Image]()
And the cable actuator mechanism:
![Image]()
It is likely that you'll have a bit of difficulty getting the hub off of the spindle. This reason for this is most likely the seal. In order to do a good job keeping the gear lube sealed inside the axle housing the seal has to be a tight fit. It is OK to pry a bit on each side side of the hub at about the 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock positions. Pry against the edges of the brake shoes in short back and forth movements. Eventually the hub will come off, but there is a possibility the seal and bearing will remain on the spindle.
Here is a picture where the seal remained on the spindle when the hub was removed.
![Image]()
This situation is not a big deal just remove the seal from the spindle taking care not to damage it. It can then be reinstalled on the hub. You are now ready to remove the old shoes. Here is what it looks like at this point:
![Image]()
There is no need to do anything with the cable. There is no adjustment or disconnects on the cable. Turn the adjuster all the way in. The adjuster is on the top of the backing plate on the passenger side and bottom of the plate on the driver side.
The first step is to remove the pins holding the shoes in place. This can be a bit tricky. You need to push the u-shaped spring in toward the shoe and rotate the pin 90 degrees right or left. The tricky part is keeping the pin from moving back when you push on the spring. You can hold the pin in place from the backside of the backing plate, but that leaves you with only one hand to compress the spring and turn the pin. It might take a little fiddling, but be patient and you'll get it. Here's a close up of the spring and pin:
![Image]()
Once the pins are removed you are ready to remove the shoes. Don't do anything with the springs! Pull the shoes apart at the adjuster until you can remove the adjuster. Now simply twist and pull one of the shoes until it comes free from the cable actuator mechanism:
![Image]()
Slide the other shoe off the mechanism and remove the shoes as a set with the springs in place.
![Image]()
The photos are of the passenger side, but the procedure for the driver's side will be the same. The only difference is that the adjuster and cable actuator positions are reversed.
Over at the work bench or any flat surface remove the springs and position them and the adjuster onto the new shoes.
![Image]()
You are now ready to install the new shoes as a set. Slide one shoe into position on the cable actuator mechanism and the position the other shoe. Initially the mechanism looks like it could be a problem, but it will move into the correct position to accept the shoes. The other notch on that side of the shoes will align with the elongated stationary post outlined in this picture:
![Image]()
Now you need to reinstall the pins and the spring clip. You'll probably find out they were a bit easier to remove than to put back in place. Be patient. It might take a few tries. Line up the pin with the slot in the spring prior to compressing, and keep in mind that the spring clip might slide out of place and shoot away from the shoes. You don't want to work in an area where the spring clip could be lost.
Here is your finished product:
![Image]()
![Image]()
Be sure surfaces of the rotor are clean, both the surfaces for the brake pads and the surface for the shoes. if you had gear lube contamination on the drum surface spray with brake cleaner, wipe with a clean paper towel and the discard that towel. Spray again and wipe with a clean paper towel. Continue this procedure until the paper towel comes up clean.
You will be reinstalling the hub, axle, rotor, and caliper. You can follow the procedures outlined in the previously mentioned link: http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/71-information-place/19-do-yourself-useful-articles-product-reviews/84927-detailed-directions-changing-rear-axle-seal-photos.html
Before you begin that process you might want to begin the adjustment of the shoes. Both adjusters will need to be turned to get the correct setting so that the parking brake foot pedal will be able to activate the parking brake. If you are not adjusted correctly the pedal will go to the floor and not apply enough force so the brakes will hold, or the brakes will be so tight that they will be rubbing all the time. The problem is almost always too loose.
To get things closer to being correct take the rotor and slide it over the brake shoes. You'll likely see that the shoes have quite a bit of space before they would contact the drum surface. Spin the adjuster out to take up some of the slack. Try the rotor fit again and adjust as needed. Turning the adjuster start wheel is easier if you slide a screwdriver under and lift the spring to remove any tension. The brake pedal will not move the shoes very far, so they need to be pretty close to the drum to do their job.
Once you done the preliminary adjustment finish reinstalling the hub, axle, and caliper. Now you are ready to do the final adjustment.
Forum member modified explains the procedure in this thread: http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/76-speciality-forums/125-drivetrain-2001-2010/215069-parking-brake-adjustment.html
The driver's side is pretty easy to adjust, but there isn't much room on the passenger side because the adjuster is on top of the axle and the spring pack blocks easy access. I use a mirror and a cut down screw driver to adjust the passenger side. It takes patience but if you got close on the preliminary adjustment it will not take too many click of the star wheel.
Please feel free to add suggestions or tips to make the job easier
I got a new set of shoes from Amazon for about $22, and got ready to do the job when I recall reading how some people had great difficulty dealing with the springs that hold the shoes together. If you've replaced brake shoes on a vehicle with rear drums you might think this job is similar, and you'd be wrong. Even the factory manual is kind of unclear on the exact procedure so I decided to take pictures as I did the job, and include some narrative.
For the first part of the job please follow my the link to my DIY post on changing the rear axle seal: http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/71-information-place/19-do-yourself-useful-articles-product-reviews/84927-detailed-directions-changing-rear-axle-seal-photos.html
Follow the steps shown to remove the wheel, caliper, rotor, axle, and hub. Here is what things will look like at this point:
And a close up of the adjuster:
And the cable actuator mechanism:
It is likely that you'll have a bit of difficulty getting the hub off of the spindle. This reason for this is most likely the seal. In order to do a good job keeping the gear lube sealed inside the axle housing the seal has to be a tight fit. It is OK to pry a bit on each side side of the hub at about the 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock positions. Pry against the edges of the brake shoes in short back and forth movements. Eventually the hub will come off, but there is a possibility the seal and bearing will remain on the spindle.
Here is a picture where the seal remained on the spindle when the hub was removed.
This situation is not a big deal just remove the seal from the spindle taking care not to damage it. It can then be reinstalled on the hub. You are now ready to remove the old shoes. Here is what it looks like at this point:
There is no need to do anything with the cable. There is no adjustment or disconnects on the cable. Turn the adjuster all the way in. The adjuster is on the top of the backing plate on the passenger side and bottom of the plate on the driver side.
The first step is to remove the pins holding the shoes in place. This can be a bit tricky. You need to push the u-shaped spring in toward the shoe and rotate the pin 90 degrees right or left. The tricky part is keeping the pin from moving back when you push on the spring. You can hold the pin in place from the backside of the backing plate, but that leaves you with only one hand to compress the spring and turn the pin. It might take a little fiddling, but be patient and you'll get it. Here's a close up of the spring and pin:
Once the pins are removed you are ready to remove the shoes. Don't do anything with the springs! Pull the shoes apart at the adjuster until you can remove the adjuster. Now simply twist and pull one of the shoes until it comes free from the cable actuator mechanism:
Slide the other shoe off the mechanism and remove the shoes as a set with the springs in place.
The photos are of the passenger side, but the procedure for the driver's side will be the same. The only difference is that the adjuster and cable actuator positions are reversed.
Over at the work bench or any flat surface remove the springs and position them and the adjuster onto the new shoes.
You are now ready to install the new shoes as a set. Slide one shoe into position on the cable actuator mechanism and the position the other shoe. Initially the mechanism looks like it could be a problem, but it will move into the correct position to accept the shoes. The other notch on that side of the shoes will align with the elongated stationary post outlined in this picture:
Now you need to reinstall the pins and the spring clip. You'll probably find out they were a bit easier to remove than to put back in place. Be patient. It might take a few tries. Line up the pin with the slot in the spring prior to compressing, and keep in mind that the spring clip might slide out of place and shoot away from the shoes. You don't want to work in an area where the spring clip could be lost.
Here is your finished product:
Be sure surfaces of the rotor are clean, both the surfaces for the brake pads and the surface for the shoes. if you had gear lube contamination on the drum surface spray with brake cleaner, wipe with a clean paper towel and the discard that towel. Spray again and wipe with a clean paper towel. Continue this procedure until the paper towel comes up clean.
You will be reinstalling the hub, axle, rotor, and caliper. You can follow the procedures outlined in the previously mentioned link: http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/71-information-place/19-do-yourself-useful-articles-product-reviews/84927-detailed-directions-changing-rear-axle-seal-photos.html
Before you begin that process you might want to begin the adjustment of the shoes. Both adjusters will need to be turned to get the correct setting so that the parking brake foot pedal will be able to activate the parking brake. If you are not adjusted correctly the pedal will go to the floor and not apply enough force so the brakes will hold, or the brakes will be so tight that they will be rubbing all the time. The problem is almost always too loose.
To get things closer to being correct take the rotor and slide it over the brake shoes. You'll likely see that the shoes have quite a bit of space before they would contact the drum surface. Spin the adjuster out to take up some of the slack. Try the rotor fit again and adjust as needed. Turning the adjuster start wheel is easier if you slide a screwdriver under and lift the spring to remove any tension. The brake pedal will not move the shoes very far, so they need to be pretty close to the drum to do their job.
Once you done the preliminary adjustment finish reinstalling the hub, axle, and caliper. Now you are ready to do the final adjustment.
Forum member modified explains the procedure in this thread: http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/76-speciality-forums/125-drivetrain-2001-2010/215069-parking-brake-adjustment.html
The driver's side is pretty easy to adjust, but there isn't much room on the passenger side because the adjuster is on top of the axle and the spring pack blocks easy access. I use a mirror and a cut down screw driver to adjust the passenger side. It takes patience but if you got close on the preliminary adjustment it will not take too many click of the star wheel.
Please feel free to add suggestions or tips to make the job easier
