IP metering valve replacement question

GREASE FIRE · Jul 3, 2007

Hello,
i need to replace the metering valve on my DB2 IP. After a year of a very specific symptom i am just about positive that it must be done - the valve is getting stuck when the engine is hot while running diesel but once i switch to veggie it runs perfect. It will get stuck in idle, not at highway speeds, and it starts more or less fine at all temps, 190 F down to 0 F.
Adding some veggie to the diesel tank helps a lot but did not totally solve the problem.

Anyway, does anyone know what the possibilities of switching out this valve with the pump still on the engine would be? I spoke with one tech who said it could be done if you are really careful and if you know what you are doing. It would be a stretch to say "i know what i am doing" but that has never held me back before.

what do you think? anyone ever try this?
thanks,
Paul

Bison · Jul 4, 2007

keep running veggie, or replace the IP, they are only couple hundred bucks.

unless you have experiance rebuilding IP's, don't fool around with them

jdemaris · Jul 4, 2007

GREASE FIRE;1859834; said:
Hello,
i need to replace the metering valve on my DB2 IP. not totally solve the problem.

Anyway, does anyone know what the possibilities of switching out this valve with the pump still on the engine would be? Paul

It is relatively easy to do and takes about 15 minutes. Like anything though - it's only easy if you have some idea what you're doing. You just remove the top cover, unhook some linkage, and reach in and lift it out.

If your metering valve has been hanging up - you will see gall or wear marks on it. When replacing it, make sure you get the correct one. Some pumps have oversize metering valves and are marked accordingly.

(Image has been resized. Click it for full size.)

GREASE FIRE · Jul 4, 2007

jdemaris,
thanks for the reply. So it looks like the long spring has the little piece of metal with the hole at the end of it that just slides up and out of the pin next to the metering valve (which presumably serves only the purpose of holding the spring tension in place). Is this correct?
Once that part is out of the way, what else do you have to do to pull the valve out?
it looks like the part above it (not sure what it is, the thing that goes the whole length of the pump) would be in the way. Does that have to come out as well?

From what i can see, my guess is that the metering valve works by rotating cw or ccw as the spring tension pulls the pin next to it, allowing for more or less fuel to go through. Is that correct?

thanks,
Paul

jdemaris · Jul 4, 2007

GREASE FIRE;1861705; said:
From what i can see, my guess is that the metering valve works by rotating cw or ccw as the spring tension pulls the pin next to it, allowing for more or less fuel to go through. Is that correct?

thanks,
Paul

Yes, correct. The valve has a cut-out in it, and you rotate one way for more fuel, and the other for less - or zero for shut-off. The metering valve itself is #19 in the diagram. #18 is the control arm that clips onto the metering valve. When you remove the metering valve, you remove both #18 and #19 as a unit - then pop the arm off the old valve and clip it onto the new one.

The little peg on #18 fits slides into the hole in the linkage assembly #17. #17 justs lifts off the peg once you get some stuff out of the way. You have to get the throttle-shaft out of the way first.

I personally have not changed a metering valve on a 6.2 with the pump in place, but I've changed plenty on D series pumps on other applications. With other types of equipment, the throttle shaft is two piece and is a little easier to deal with and remove. The shaft used in the 6.2 pump is one piece. You have to slide it out sideways far enough it's out of the way of the linkage that you have to lift off.

If you are unsure about it, repost. I have a couple of 6.2 pumps sitting on my workbench. I can go out and try removing a shaft and see exactly how easy it is. I've done it many times - but it's been awhile and it's not exactly fresh on my mind.

Bison · Jul 6, 2007

jdemaris;1861262; said:
It is relatively easy to do and takes about 15 minutes. Like anything though - it's only easy if you have some idea what you're doing. You just remove the top cover, unhook some linkage, and reach in and lift it out.

If your metering valve has been hanging up - you will see gall or wear marks on it. When replacing it, make sure you get the correct one. Some pumps have oversize metering valves and are marked accordingly.

[URL="http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m162/jdemaris/metering_valve.jpg"]
(Image has been resized. Click it for full size.)
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(Image has been resized. Click it for full size.)

[URL="http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m162/jdemaris/metering_valve_diagram-1.jpg"]
(Image has been resized. Click it for full size.)
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(Image has been resized. Click it for full size.)

Good Thing there are smarter people than me, I did'nt think you could replace this that easy, I learned something again

:

Bison · Jul 6, 2007

jdemaris;1861755; said:
Yes, correct. The valve has a cut-out in it, and you rotate one way for more fuel, and the other for less - or zero for shut-off. The metering valve itself is #19 in the diagram. #18 is the control arm that clips onto the metering valve. When you remove the metering valve, you remove both #18 and #19 as a unit - then pop the arm off the old valve and clip it onto the new one.

The little peg on #18 fits slides into the hole in the linkage assembly #17. #17 justs lifts off the peg once you get some stuff out of the way. You have to get the throttle-shaft out of the way first.

I personally have not changed a metering valve on a 6.2 with the pump in place, but I've changed plenty on D series pumps on other applications. With other types of equipment, the throttle shaft is two piece and is a little easier to deal with and remove. The shaft used in the 6.2 pump is one piece. You have to slide it out sideways far enough it's out of the way of the linkage that you have to lift off.

If you are unsure about it, repost. I have a couple of 6.2 pumps sitting on my workbench. I can go out and try removing a shaft and see exactly how easy it is. I've done it many times - but it's been awhile and it's not exactly fresh on my mind.

Good thing there are more knowledgeable people than me, i did not know this could be changed that easy

: I have to swallow my reply

GREASE FIRE · Jul 6, 2007

bison,
i am glad you said that - so far i have spoken with three IP techs and they all said it is not that hard and i should be able to do it. You were the only one who had me worried!
Paul

Bison · Jul 6, 2007

GREASE FIRE;1864121; said:
bison,
i am glad you said that - so far i have spoken with three IP techs and they all said it is not that hard and i should be able to do it. You were the only one who had me worried!
Paul

sorry bud, i figured the pump would have to be calibrated again after fooling with metering valve. then again thinking something or KNOWING something are 2 diff things.

GREASE FIRE · Jul 19, 2007

jdemaris,
would you happen to know how many different types of metering valves there could be for this type of pump? the tag is impossible to read on my pump so i don't know exactly which one, because the tag is way down on the side. There is a J at the end of it and that is about all i can get without pulling the pump.
Is it needed to have those numbers before ordering the part or can i just tell them what engine i have?
thanks,
Paul

jdemaris · Jul 19, 2007

GREASE FIRE;1887533; said:
jdemaris,
would you happen to know how many different types of metering valves there could be for this type of pump? the tag is impossible to read on my pump so i don't know exactly which one, because the tag is way down on the side. There is a J at the end of it and that is about all i can get without pulling the pump.
Is it needed to have those numbers before ordering the part or can i just tell them what engine i have?
thanks,
Paul

I don't know what year your engine is - but here are a few pump numbers used on 6.5s on P trucks with no turbos.

I think there are only two choices of part numbers for the DB2 pumps used on 6.5s - standard and oversize. Oversize is kind of rare - but sometimes used at the factory with some head & rotors that don't meet specs with original size bores. Oversize is indicated by the top of the metering valve.
If you call US Diesel for parts - they will give you the correct part number if you give them one of the pump numbers I've given you here.

DB2831-5088 10229115 1994-97 HD P & G Van - N/A (170 hp)
DB2831-5089 10229119 1994-97 HD P & G Van - N/A, ALT.
DB2831-5119 10238967 1994-97 HD P Truck - N/A, 2600 RPM (120 hp)
6.5 Liter Applications

Also, the U.S. Army uses this pump on "detuned" 6.5s with no turbos -

DB2831-5209

turbovanman · Jul 20, 2007

Great info, going to need this soon, I hope,

IP metering valve replacement question

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