- I know it’s not manly, but read the instructions that come with the kit – a couple of times, just for good measure.
- Most, if not all, of the connectors/fasteners that need to removed are 10mm, 13mm, 15mm, 17mm or 18mm. Standard and deep well sockets, extensions, and combination wrenches. Not much need for an SAE wrench/socket set.
- Besides removing the upper fan shroud, remove the lower portion of the shroud AND the skid plate(s). Removing the radiator in its entirety is an option as well. I did so that I could thoroughly clean the bugs and leafy stuff out. (Actually, I removed the radiator AFTER I dropped a wrench between it and the grill. I noticed the filth when I pushed the radiator back to retrieve the wrench and opted to remove it then.)
- Avoid using the radiator drain petcock. They’re plastic and break or leak – it’s a 50-50 chance, one or the other. That leaves removing the lower radiator hose to drain the system, which in-turn means coolant everywhere. Don’t ask me how I know this.
- Speaking of lower radiator hose – gotta love the position that the spring clamp is put in. Let’s just say, it took me some time and a few precious words to get mine off.
- Take pictures of the stock system before starting. Pay particular attention to the vacuum pump, power steering pump and alternator brackets and how they are attached. All of these are likely to be removed.
- Plan on having to tweak the upper heater hose – or at least replace the quick connect connector (available in the HELP! Section of most auto parts stores (AutoZone, Checker, Advanced Auto, etc) for ~$8-9 (USD)). They do leak or break. On the same note, the upper radiator hose – a combination of a metal tube and rubber hose – ends up being a couple inches short. This can be overcome if you remove the support bracket from its mount on the intake. I chose to ‘worry’ the aluminum support off the metal tube and let the whole assembly ‘float’ rather than have the support loose and rattling. This is a much easier solution than replacing the entire run with a rubber hose – the connection at the heater core is a SOB to get at, and it too uses the spring-spring type clamp. An alternative is to put a nipple in the cross-over and ‘splice in’ a piece of radiator hose. It’s your choice.
- Before removing the cross-over manifold or water pump entirely, remove the by-pass couplers and temp sensor. Or, plan ahead and have new couplers in-hand. As I recall these use a ¾” NPT x ¾” nipple. Removing these hose couplers is much easier on the vehicle rather than off. A 1 1/8” socket on a breaker bar or long ratchet works well to free the couplers.
- Remember. The water pump is also attached to the block by 5 or 6, 13mm bolts thru the timing cover and not just the handful of bolts/studs you see protruding thru the water pump. The two bolts on the underside of the water pump use 13mm sockets to remove.
- Besides having to modify the alternator bracket (‘94-‘95), you’ll need to look/work at rearranging the oil return lines. They will undoubtedly be in the way of the dual t-stat housing. Likewise, you may or may not be able to relocate the fuel drain. The ’94 has the fuel drain on the driver’s side of the cross-over manifold. ’97 had it on the passenger side. It may or may not be possible to reroute the fuel line from the filter. I chose to fabricate a bracket that attaches under one of the t-stat housing bolts and leave it on the driver’s side.
- Removing the upper intake plenum will make life a little easier when it comes time to positioning and fastening the dual t-stat cross-over. Reminder: the O-rings that are included in the kit, go on AROUND the t-stats themselves. Not on top, not on the bottom. They are split and ‘sandwich’ the t-stat. A t-stat housing gasket was not included in my ‘kit’ I opted to Perma-Tex the housing.
- Refill the system with coolant, start engine and look/test for leaks BEFORE you reinstall the fan, clutch, or shrouds. Coolant can be added thru the overflow jug. Open the bleeder on the t-stat housing and add coolant until a steady stream runs out the bleeder. Close the bleeder and press on.
- Speaking of attaching the fan clutch – new water pumps do not come with the studs. You’ll either have remove the studs from the old pump or have new studs on-hand. For reference purposes, these are M8 x 1.25 x ~40mm. They are available in the HELP! Section of most auto parts stores for ~$4 (USD).
- In total, I believe that the entire cooling system upgrade took me about 8hrs over the course of a couple of evenings, and not including trip(s) to the parts store for the miscellany mentioned – quick connect, water pump studs, more teflon tape, worm-drive hose clamps, etc.
