Got the camera out and took some pictures. The right knob is a little low but I wallowed out the holes so there's some upward adjustment. I selected the knobs to match those on my Gibson Les Paul Studio Swamp Ash Guitar that I dearly love. I'd include photos of the connections but I made my splices such that I could hide them in existing split loom.
Reviewing my signature, I've pulled the snorkle, gutted the intake plenum, put a 3" downpipe on the turbo and removed the cat. It has an "F" chip in it so it ignores the blocked EGR but otherwise it's pretty stock.
The left knob controls the 5K potentiometer wired into the "B" wire of the baro and I've run it at "10" only because it doesn't have an "11" position sadly. I put the baro BSer in because the ECM was defueling at 70+ because of the differential of signals when I was only running a boost fooler under the hood. Honestly, I'd have probably been fine soldering a 5K in line on the "B" wire coming out of the baro and been fine but better safe than sorry.
The right knob controls the 10K potentiometer wired into the MAP signal. Again, for a while I had a 10K under the hood right next to the MAP. One thing I compared between the two was total rotation capacity and what it took to set off the SES and they were identical. Either sets the SES off about "3" to "3.5" which leads me to believe a 5K would have been fine on the MAP as well. In fact, at about the "5" position it begins to defuel and throw the SES light which again seems to make the 10K pot seem pointless.
Driving:
Now that I have on-the-fly control, I can tell you that with the vacuum system controlling boost, still nothing happens before 1700 rpm which is probably healthy for the transmission. It seems to run 50 to 100 EGT cooler with the boost turned up which makes me happy. Without turning the MAP controller beyond the point that it sets off the SES light, I can double the psi during acceleration - and maybe it's because I'm busy playing with dials - but I haven't noticed a whole lot of enhancement of performance in terms of acceleration. This seems to support may of the opinions on this board contrary to the ASE 8 Engine Performance Module 16 6.5 EFI Diesel Engine Performance tutorial regarding whether additional scheduled boost results in additional scheduled fuel. Still, the difference is noticeable particularly in normal driving around town at RPMs between 1700 and 2100 RPM - the range I consider the sweet spot for this engine - where you'll find yourself speeding because the truck is delivering more practical power.
So if your a newbie, why bother? Because if you have gauges, you can get the performance that should have been built into the package if liability didn't drive about every decision in the automotive industry. If GM spent the money on the gauges and could legally expect you to backpedal if the EGT got high if you happened to be pulling a horse trailer up a steep grade or it'd be your fault she blew...well, I really believe this would be the package you got when you put your money on the table.
Reviewing my signature, I've pulled the snorkle, gutted the intake plenum, put a 3" downpipe on the turbo and removed the cat. It has an "F" chip in it so it ignores the blocked EGR but otherwise it's pretty stock.
The left knob controls the 5K potentiometer wired into the "B" wire of the baro and I've run it at "10" only because it doesn't have an "11" position sadly. I put the baro BSer in because the ECM was defueling at 70+ because of the differential of signals when I was only running a boost fooler under the hood. Honestly, I'd have probably been fine soldering a 5K in line on the "B" wire coming out of the baro and been fine but better safe than sorry.
The right knob controls the 10K potentiometer wired into the MAP signal. Again, for a while I had a 10K under the hood right next to the MAP. One thing I compared between the two was total rotation capacity and what it took to set off the SES and they were identical. Either sets the SES off about "3" to "3.5" which leads me to believe a 5K would have been fine on the MAP as well. In fact, at about the "5" position it begins to defuel and throw the SES light which again seems to make the 10K pot seem pointless.
Driving:
Now that I have on-the-fly control, I can tell you that with the vacuum system controlling boost, still nothing happens before 1700 rpm which is probably healthy for the transmission. It seems to run 50 to 100 EGT cooler with the boost turned up which makes me happy. Without turning the MAP controller beyond the point that it sets off the SES light, I can double the psi during acceleration - and maybe it's because I'm busy playing with dials - but I haven't noticed a whole lot of enhancement of performance in terms of acceleration. This seems to support may of the opinions on this board contrary to the ASE 8 Engine Performance Module 16 6.5 EFI Diesel Engine Performance tutorial regarding whether additional scheduled boost results in additional scheduled fuel. Still, the difference is noticeable particularly in normal driving around town at RPMs between 1700 and 2100 RPM - the range I consider the sweet spot for this engine - where you'll find yourself speeding because the truck is delivering more practical power.
So if your a newbie, why bother? Because if you have gauges, you can get the performance that should have been built into the package if liability didn't drive about every decision in the automotive industry. If GM spent the money on the gauges and could legally expect you to backpedal if the EGT got high if you happened to be pulling a horse trailer up a steep grade or it'd be your fault she blew...well, I really believe this would be the package you got when you put your money on the table.
