Originally Posted by Coolbreeze
Comes complete with rusting to crap in 5 years as well as twisting and what ever else it does. Curt or even Reese Class 5 will get you all fixed up. Only problem is cutting of the 7 pin connector. You can get it welded to the new hitch if you like.
Not sure which Curt hitch you are referring to. I could not find one for my direct application; they only referenced the cab/chassis when I put in my truck info. Also, the two they did offer, while very beefy, were needing to have the truck frame drilled; pita and not necessary. So I excluded Curt for these reasons. I'm not saying it's a bad hitch; to the contrary it looks very robust. But why risk a mis-match and/or extra work when other brands offer more for less?
Also, like I said, B&W has a good product too. Simple bolt-on and very good ratings. But it was more than the DT I bought. Why pay more for the same features and capacity?
So I bought the Draw-Tite #41944.
BTW, Reese and Draw-Tite are the same company; offer the same stuff with different brand names but same parent company. (Think of GMC and Chevy trucks ... both same GM design with different cosmetic items).
Heck, even the websites are identical, except for some name branding. They both refer to the same catalog!
Here is the DT webpage for my application:
Draw-Tite - Class V Trailer Hitch
Here is the Reese webpage for my application:
Note how the webpages start from different sites but end on the same product! Reese/DT are the same product. I got hitch #41944 from their "Ultra-Frame" series. Class V rated at 16k pounds; far more than I'd tow and more than the truck is "rated" for anyway.
As for the electrical connector, I emailed them and asked if it was OK to weld the mount to the hitch frame and they said it would void the lifetime warranty. Rather, I just cut the bracket off the OEM GM hitch, welded that to some angle iron, and then bolted that above the new hitch in the existing OEM bumper holes. Viola!
2006 White Chevy CC 4x4 3500 SRW W/T
6.6L Duramax LBZ / Allison trans / manual T-case with Riverside Gear pump-rub-elimination upgrade / coolant bypass filter / PCV reroute
Fumoto drain valve / Power Steering Cooler added / Inverted Tranny Cooler / Autometer pyrometer / home-made diff cover / upgraded x-fer case skid plate
Member #2 of the "OIL is OIL" association
I used to use dino oil because I didn't know any better.
Then, I used synthetics because I thought they were "best".
Now, I use dino, because I know the truth!