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Old 03-04-2016, 01:26 PM   #5 (permalink)
Diesel Mythbuster
Join Date: May 2005
Location: central illinois
Posts: 6,495
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Make double sure you have the brace on the front of the starter. You can break a block at the hit of the key, if you do not have the brace.

You can somewhat circumvent the ignition switch by running a push button from the little wire on the starter to 12 volt - I would use an inline fuse at the source if you do this.

Start as JMJ said. Good batteries and cables are a must, If it has been starting good on one battery, I would give the cables a double check

In one of the posts someone suggested using jumper cables to check the starter. How does that work?

I would not mess with this - it's to tight of quarters to get the jumper cables on the big starter lug. To easy to short something out.

If the starter needs checking after you get the cables and battery situations straightened out, then I would drop the starter and check it out

I have had to replace the ignition switch on all of my vehicles except the 1994's.
98 GMC Suburban 2500 6.5 4x4 160,000 mi, Fluidamper, remote PMD, FS2500
96 GMC 6.5 Suburban 1500 4x4 200,000 mi; Fluidamper, remote PMD, Amsoil bypass, K47 air filter
95 Tahoe 2 door 4x4 6.5 200,000 mi; Fluidamper, Amsoil bypass filter, remote PMD, K47 air filter
1989 GMC Sierra 2500 2wd 5 spd get-rag trans had 108,000 mi. in 92 when the odometer broke. 6-800,000 miles on the truck. Installed a GM crate 6.5 non-turbo in 2000 about 300,000 miles on the motor, original IP
95 Chevy 2500 xtra-cab 2wd 6.5 190,000 miles,
91 international 4700 low pro, spicer 6 speed, DTA 360 with 18' van box 500,000 miles plus.
NRA Life Member for over 30 years
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1994 chev K3500, FS2500 bypass filter, remore PMD, K47 air filter

Last edited by jrsavoie; 03-04-2016 at 01:32 PM.
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