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6.5 Wont Start / Turn Over

3K views 28 replies 9 participants last post by  saffron98 
#1 ·
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B7qsaH3gbjZqSEJvTHlmVGtwMGc

This was my start after our first freezing overnight temps. Truck has always had long starts. Injector pump finally fail? PMD?

Replaced the battery (2 new batteries now) and get this:

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B7qsaH3gbjZqUUdhdXFkOFRqZGs

Recent engine maintenance from the last few weeks:


  1. Bosch Duraterm Glow Plugs
  2. Badger Diesel Turbo replacement
  3. Heath turbo master
  4. Starter
  5. Serpentine Belt
  6. Running Diesel Kleen
  7. Oil Filter / Air Filter / Fuel Filter
  8. 2 New Batteries
  9. Fresh coolant / Heater hoses.
Truck was running great / boosting fine until I tried to start it this morning. Luckily I filmed the 1st crank because their was frost windshield and I thought it would be an interesting start. I've never owned this truck through a winter.
 
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#2 ·
#3 · (Edited)
Let me say it again "NEVER ASSUME THAT NEW PARTS ARE GOOD".

Load test those 2 new batteries one at a time.
I have heard member with new batteries only last a few days.

Also check the fuses and all the cables and grounds and terminals.
Those thing do not have to be good when temp is high but any bad connections may cause issue in the winter when it needs all the amps.
 
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#4 ·
#6 ·
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#7 · (Edited)
Yeah, I think you are right. The starter does not sound like it is engaging the flex plate/fly wheel.

Make sure the starter has the front support bracket installed: http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/63...0-starter-hitting-flywheel-6.html#post7277730. Part #9 in the diagram.

Also, you need to wait 60 seconds after you attempt a start for the starter to cool down. Also, so the PCM resets and glow plugs will run a full heat cycle. Wait to Start light should be on for 8-10 seconds, and the light should stay on longer the colder it gets.
 
#8 ·
Yeah, I think you are right. The starter does not sound like it is engaging the flex plate/fly wheel.

Make sure the starter has the front support bracket installed: http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/63...0-starter-hitting-flywheel-6.html#post7277730. Part #9 in the diagram.

Also, you need to wait 60 seconds after you attempt a start for the starter to cool down. Also, so the PCM resets and glow plugs will run a full heat cycle. Wait to Start light should be on for 8-10 seconds, and the light should stay on longer the colder it gets.
Shop confirmed the starter is bad AND the flywheel is shot -that is why it failed prematurely. Starter will get replaced under warranty but the flywheel labor is going to be around $400
 
#9 · (Edited)
That is usually caused by whoever install the starter last time did not install the starter's back bracket (towards the front of truck so it is called front support) properly.
So, after you fix it, make sure that back bracket is installed properly/tightly.

It has caused a lot of people with issue like this.
 
#10 ·
New flex plate was installed and the starter was replaced under warranty. I verified that the front bracket on the starter was installed.

Old flex plate was well worn after +200K Replaced it with an ATP Z136

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Even with the new flex plate, I am still having a hard start issue. After sitting for 5 hours in 45 degree weather:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7qsaH3gbjZqREU4Y0EzX1ItdEk/view?usp=sharing

Codes: P0370 / P0251

Bad IP causing hard start?
 
#11 · (Edited)
Sounds like a healthy crank. Id say you should install a clear line on the ip return short hose about 4" 1/4 id line. After sitting watch for bubbles when you attempt start this will indicate or rule out air from drainback. Could be restriction also but I would guess you may see decreased performance with restriction sputtering etc. Dont be an ip statistic due to undiagnosed fuel system issues ive read alot of that here.
 
#13 ·
#12 ·
It you have hard crank before, the Batteries may be going down.

Load test the batteries first.

This is in addition to checking the fuel flow as suggested above.
 
#18 ·
As rudimentary test, try to measure at the t-valve first and see if you can see any issue.
This is going to be a little easier and if that is already not good, then you know you have problem because this is a pre-filter pressure.
 
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#21 ·
That is the pressure test will do.

It measure the LP and the pressure.

Of course, I assume he knows how to jump the LP using the relay if the truck is not starting.

Spend some time in the FAQ?
 
#23 ·
#25 ·
Lift pump is working based on the two videos posted.

Next thing I would do is check to make sure the glow plug system is working. Glow Plug System starts on page 6D6 1 in this section of the 1997 C/K Truck Factory Manual: http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/at...s-1997-sec-6b-6j-all-other-engine-systems.pdf. This is a .pdf file that will download to your PC.

BTW the starter sounds much, much better!
Thank you for the PDF but I dont not believe the testing procedure for the glow plugs is in that particular PDF -it references another manual in section 6D6 1. "For diagnosis, refer to the Engine Controls, Transmission Diagnosis
and Electrical Diagnosis Manual."

Either-way, I did test the glow plug wires with a circuit test probe and they all checked out ok. :thumb:

ummmm... thats the EXACT thing my engine was doing.... i had leaky and bad injectors. i rebuilt mine FINALLY... and lemme tell u, it starts PERFECT.
I have 200K on the clock and as far as I know the injectors have never been replaced. I just ordered a set from SSDiesel along with an for the job. I am going to attempt to replace them without removing the turbo. I have the passenger fender liner off already from when I did the turbo swap and I'm going to be installing a 4" Diamond Eye exhaust so I will have to drop the down pipe anyway. Even if it is not the injectors causing the hard start, I figure they're on top of the preventative maintenance list.

I sprayed the injectors / heat shield bolts down with PB Blaster -hope they dont cause me any trouble.
 
#24 ·
ummmm... thats the EXACT thing my engine was doing.... i had leaky and bad injectors. i rebuilt mine FINALLY... and lemme tell u, it starts PERFECT.
 
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#28 ·
Assuming the GP system is functioning properly.. Got an over-ride on those GPs, duzitburns typically require extended glow times..

My best educated guess is the fuel system is losing prime when parked for extended periods.. Cant see none of the vids (create account/sign it) unfortunitely....

Once the (cold) engine fires up, immediately shut it off, wait 5 minutes and see if it restart quickly or again requires extended cranking?
Once its up to temp, does it restart right away (normally) or not?
 
#29 · (Edited)
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