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LBZ: Grail Truck

13K views 64 replies 16 participants last post by  Marauderer 
#1 ·
When I was younger I always wanted a "grail truck". Back then, to me, that was a 98 p-pump ext. cab lb dodge. Now for me, and hopefully a lot of other people going forward, the grail truck is pretty close to the truck I just bought.

07 2500 Classic Crew LB 4x4 LT with 118k on the clock.

I would like to start a build thread like I had in the 6.5 section but I'm not sure where to put it over here. It won't be just about any one thing so I don't know.

It's still kind of surreal driving this thing around. Especially coming from my old 6.5.
 
#3 ·
Theres a bunch of them out there still... quite a few SWB with under 100k here but for $30kish price tag.
LWBs aren't as desirable tho but I understand they serve a purpose.

Not sure if still on eBay but there with some with 40k miles but i think the asking price on them is ridiculous
 
#4 ·
Congrats on the new truck. Welcome to the LBZ experience!
 
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#5 · (Edited)
Going to use this thread as the main "build" thread for all of the shenanigans. I might start a sub thread or 2 for specifics, but I'll keep this one updated with links as the main reference.

The paint was burnt off the wiper arms so I just threw a coat of spray bomb primer and satin black in them. 100% better. Now, about the only sun damaged thing left are the headlights.

Oh yeah, the wheels are also junk. Any suggestions on a cheap temporary fix until I replace them?


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#6 ·
In other news: I hate the people who change oil!
What I mean is, why do people need to install drain plugs and filters with impact wrenches? I had to get a breaker bar out for the drain plug and a 3' pipe wrench for the filter! Seriously, just stop whoever you are.

Thankfully I was able to get everything off including the fuel filter without issue. There was almost no mileage put on the truck since the last oil change but based on the sticker, it was probably a year ago since it was done. So, I started the transition over to Amsoil :)

That Opti-Lube tho. Makes it run so much smoother and quieter, not that it didn't already.

I've used just about 1/4 tank and have 160 miles on the truck since the fill up. I'm sure it won't be this good in the end, but that's like 24mpg! Hauling the dump trailer up north will kill it Saturday.

The next project will be to finish installing the seat covers in preparation for moving my brother in-law this weekend. Hope it doesn't rain!
 
#7 ·
there are several threads with ways to refurbish your PYO wheels. they can sell for 400 or more but i think they look good.
if it was MY truck? remove the slants, replace with 2000 style. never a fan of that newer style.
truck looks good. interior pics?
change your own oil. easy solution. gonna do mine at work today.
 
#8 ·
Ah, see I like these wheels better. I'll look for those threads.
I'll get some interior pics when I get a chance to work on the seat cover install again. Should be tonight or tomorrow night.
Yep, I always change my own oil!

I realized list night that my interior gauge light dimmer doesn't work and there is a light or 2 out in the AC controls panel. Hopefully that's an easy fix.
 
#9 ·
Biggest down side to keeping the stock wheels, they are only 6.5" wide, so running tires bigger than 265s is suspect at best. If you don't plan on upping the size, you can strip the clear coat and have them powder coated clear. My PYOs started leaking at the bead from the hammer on wheel weights on two wheels
 
#14 ·
#15 ·
Yeah, I would like to swap the mirrors sometime I think.

Finished the seat cover install.
What is this pile of stuff that was under the back seat and in the glove box? I don't see any trim obviously missng...

Also, I assumed the jack setup would be here but I haven't run across it yet.....


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#21 · (Edited)
What is this pile of stuff that was under the back seat and in the glove box? I don't see any trim obviously missng...

Also, I assumed the jack setup would be here but I haven't run across it yet.....


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From left to right:

Wheel chock,
what look to be wheel well liner clips,
unknown stud/nut (I thought it might be an exhaust stud but no threads on other end), cover for electrical connector under driver's seat,
clip to hold jack tools down on stud behind pass side rear seat (lift up carpeted floor cover),
cover for front seat bolt on floor nearest trans tunnel for pass side rear seat.


You could probably find a jack and tools in any Silverado in a junkyard for cheap.
 
#16 ·
How do you like those seat covers? I am looking at finding some to prevent the driver's side fabric from wearing through (again) and then wrecking the foam...
 
#17 ·
one of those pieces is a wheel chock.
 
#19 ·
I like them. They cover everything well instead of some that just have straps around the back. We have had these in my dad's Dodge for years now and they are holding up well. They fit well although there are some places where they could have done better with the Velcro but they still work. I think the same company makes the Carheart brand which would be more durable. They are triple stitched where these are double. I'm not sure if that is the only difference. I did see them installed in a truck once and they seemed to fit looser than these but it may have been the install.
 
#20 ·
Why is it that I can't buy a Chevy with a jack in it!?

In other news:
I've developed a tick.......... Awesome!
I'll try to get a video sometime. The problem is that it doesn't do it all the time. It seems to happen when it's between dead cold, and warmed up. It is much louder underneath, but I can't feel anything by putting my hand on things. It is RPM dependent but almost any increase in RPM and it goes away. It seems like it might be an exhaust leak (at least I hope its external in some fashion). :(
 
#22 ·
The tick might the the so called Duramax tick.
 
#23 ·
Interesting. I have never heard of that in all my years of reading forums. I found the TSB and it sounds pretty close. I can fire the thing dead cold and it is silent as can be, its just that middle temperature range. Is there a "fix" for this like a Fluid Damper or something?
 
#24 ·
Well this is annoying. I went with the 33930xe filter and it turns out that the micron rating is worse than the normal 33930. So, the xe just means it can last longer (read, doesn't clog because it just lets more dirt through) in dirtier environments.
Anyone else think this is a STUPID design choice by WIX?
Why would you even design a product like this? Your job as a filter manufacturer is to FILTER things, not "last longer".
 
#28 ·
Put the new bump stops on yesterday. Now I realize why these are ruined on every truck. They are touching all the time! How much harder is it really to make good suspension?
 
#29 ·
The new updated ones last a lot longer.
 
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