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Maintenance & Fluids Discuss products, techniques, intervals, and fluids for maintaining your GM truck including oil and oil additives, fuel and fuel additives, alternative fuels (Bio-D, SVO, WVO), filters, grease, and maintenance specific tools.

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  • 1 Post By 97chevor
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Old 08-29-2019, 07:30 PM   #1 (permalink)
David Jay
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Preemptive Maintenance for High Mile 2500

I purchased this truck at 172,000 and I intend to run it for perhaps 6-7 years. I have never owned any vehicle - certainly not a 3/4 ton truck - with over 200,000 miles (I sold one Chevy[Toyota] Prism at 182,000 miles) so I want to hear what I may need to do to get her to say 300,000.

So far I have replaced all the fluids except the PS, brake and coolant. Those 3 are on the list. Switched the transmission to TES-295. Plan to run Rotella T-6 starting at the next oil change.

I think that Todd at T&C Diesel has convinced me to replace the CP4.2 at 200,000. Pulling a 5th wheel all over the country, I would feel better installing a new one ($650 part) before the old one grenades.

Is there anything that I should be replacing preemptively? I saw an old Suburban by the side of the road this week that was dragging the drive shaft. Do I need to replace U-joints or CV joints? I look forward to hearing from you guys...

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Old 08-29-2019, 07:34 PM   #2 (permalink)
David Jay
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Link to photos: https://www.dieselplace.com/forum/15...ml#post9842890

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Old 08-29-2019, 08:44 PM   #3 (permalink)
HWI
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The stock CVs last a long time, especially if your front end isn't cranked, wouldn't worry about that. Never a bad idea to replace u-joints if you don't know how many miles are on them, plus they are cheap.
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Old 08-29-2019, 08:59 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Locate, clean, repair or replace ALL grounds!

I'd have the front and rear suspension inspected.

Front theres ball joints, a-arm bushings, tie-rid ends, pitman arm, anti-sway bars, steering box (and frame mount) Calipers, Rotors, Pads, Brake Lines - probably forgot some..

All consumable parts.
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Old 08-29-2019, 09:46 PM   #5 (permalink)
97chevor
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I seem to think adding airbags to the rear axle saves the u joints. Bought a 500k 2013 from my dad.
It's up to 657k. These newer trucks parts last longer. My cp4 lasted 595,000. Think he said one u joint was replaced.

Emmisson codes can be a headache.
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Old 08-29-2019, 09:49 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rambos_Ride View Post
Front there's ball joints, a-arm bushings, tie-rid ends, pitman arm, anti-sway bars, steering box (and frame mount)
I need to find a good shop - don't know who to trust on this stuff...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rambos_Ride View Post
Calipers, Rotors, Pads
That's my stuff, been doing my own brakes for a long time.
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Old 08-29-2019, 09:51 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HWI View Post
Never a bad idea to replace u-joints if you don't know how many miles are on them, plus they are cheap.
Is this straightforward? Can I pull the drive shafts and replace the U-joints by myself?
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Old 08-29-2019, 09:54 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 97chevor View Post
2010-gmc maintenance log
This is great, thanks for archiving!
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Old 09-06-2019, 10:26 AM   #9 (permalink)
HWI
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David Jay View Post
Is this straightforward? Can I pull the drive shafts and replace the U-joints by myself?
Yes. There is a channel on youtube called truckmaster that has a good video on replacing u-joints on a 2007 Duramax.
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Old 09-06-2019, 10:51 AM   #10 (permalink)
Ron Nielson
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And there is another Channel on Youtube showing you how you SHOULD BE installing your u-joints. Furnsihed by Weber State University Auto Tech to educate those who want to learn to do things correctly. This is only 1 part of the series, so when you have time, look at all the other parts of the series.

See it here:


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Last edited by OkDually; 09-06-2019 at 11:00 AM. Reason: repaired video link
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