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Old 11-20-2018, 04:15 PM   #11 (permalink)
ucf_motorcycle
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Originally Posted by heymccall View Post
Ohm meter between blue and white wires on trailer plug (5 & 7 oclock).
Convey the reading here (should be between 1 & 2.3 ohm).

As for working on another truck, was it ITBC equipped?

And, as stated before, is the Stud fuse (30 or 40 amp) fuse still good? It is more square and has a clear lid.

OK showed 0.9-1.0 ohms. And Stud 2 is 30 amp and I pulled out checked its showing continuity so its not blown.

Also plugged into a third trailer now and still won't show "Trailer Connected"

Other truck was Ford F150 with ITBC

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Old 11-20-2018, 09:46 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Just for giggles, unplug the harness from the back of the bumper plug socket and inspect.
Also, follow that wiring forward to at least the fuel tank to look for integrity, or previous owner patches in the wiring.

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Old 11-20-2018, 10:46 PM   #13 (permalink)
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And, since you put on a new relay, can you check for battery voltage on pin F (red w/blk tracer)?
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Originally Posted by GetSome8.1HD
Its not like I said I enjoyed reading Good Housekeeping while taking a candle lit bubble bath then proceeding to using a loofah with exfoliating creams all while thinking about you . Now THAT would be creepy
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Old 11-23-2018, 12:15 PM   #14 (permalink)
ucf_motorcycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by heymccall View Post
Just for giggles, unplug the harness from the back of the bumper plug socket and inspect.
Also, follow that wiring forward to at least the fuel tank to look for integrity, or previous owner patches in the wiring.
Showed 13V from F on the harness grounded to chassis.

Wiring is in good shape, I am original owner everything is OEM except for a turbo back exhaust and tuner.
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Old 11-28-2018, 10:42 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Well its going to the dealer tomorrow. Towed a trailer 1000 miles monday without the brakes and that wasn't fun. Luckily I had a very light load in it but still not ideal.
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Old 12-02-2018, 12:01 PM   #16 (permalink)
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So....the tech found a break I a wire near the firewall pass through. After he spliced that break the brake switch on the dash was finally throwing a code so that was replaced all fixed.

Unfortunately with the parts only being $40 I was charged 4.5hrs labor to splice a wire and replace that switch. Total ended up over $500. I dont usually service at the dealer is this a typical bill? Seems to me that if the problem was diagnosed more timely I wouldn’t be paying even half that.
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Old 12-02-2018, 01:13 PM   #17 (permalink)
Ron Nielson
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For my 2008 model, the dealer price for the switch is $23.18 and the labor is .4 hours. Certainly it took some effort and time to find and repair the wire break, but the overall labor cost seems very high. That's why many of us call them STEALERSHIPS.
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Old 12-02-2018, 02:15 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Ok thanks. I thought so too. I think I will call tomorrow and speak to the service manager.
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