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Old 03-21-2016, 09:48 PM   #21 (permalink)
mannytranny
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I don't know why they can't harden the metal around the pin. If you're a cheap bastard you might run some weld in there and grind it round using the pin as a guide. I did that. Wasn't too bad of a job if you are quick with the stick.

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Old 03-28-2016, 08:14 AM   #22 (permalink)
Soggybottomboy
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Made in USA.

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Old 03-28-2016, 08:32 AM   #23 (permalink)
TheBac
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Many, many of us have gone thru the whole "OEM hitch isnt class 5" thing. I bent mine sledpulling one year. Meh.
Bent, broke, rusted, not heavy duty enough....whatever.....just replace it with a better one (I personally have a Curt) and be on your merry way.
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Old 02-16-2017, 01:49 PM   #24 (permalink)
dnewton3
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I am going to resurrect this thread rather than start a new one ... forgive me, but this old thread has merit still ...

My factory hitch is rusted badly. I looked into fixing it (media blasting and then powder-coating) but it's going to be $160 for this route, with me doing the "upgrades" of adding strength. I was going to have it blasted, then I'd take it home to weld up weak areas and add gussets, and then take it for p-paint. Upside to this that I know I'll do a good job in the work and the local powder-paint place is well respected. The quality should be good overall.

Options:

Curt (#15400)
only lists "cab and chassis" hitches for my rig currently on their site. I'm not sure this is the correct frame because my truck is not cab/chassis version. Additionally, their two hitches must be drilled to mount. Didn't really want that extra work. Plus this will hang down pretty far, as it looks from pix; a bit gawdy.

Draw-Tite/Reese/HiddenHitch, etc (#41944)
All owned by same company
They do offer a couple of true bolt on units, with 16k tow and 1.6k tw. Powder-coated at factory. Not bad. Can be had for $150 on ebay includes shipping. They don't have a provision for the electrical harness socket mount, as best I can tell. Fully welded. Decent brands that are well known.

B&W (#HDRH25189)
Also offers a bolt on rig; same 16k tow / 1.6k tw ratings. Powder-coated. The kit does include an accessory mount for the electrical socket for the harness. It bolts together, but does have the same rating. Well known brand.
Also on Ebay for $150 including shipping.


I do not tow super heavy; probably the most I'll pull would be 10k pounds with my trailer/Kubota load. My RV weighs less than that. The truck gross trailer limit is 12k pounds, so the DT and B&W are well over-rated for my application at 16k tow / 1.6 tw.

Also, the OEM GM hitch uses the bumper as an integral load carrying point, whereas the aftermarket units simply use the frame only. Can anyone thinks of a pro/con either way here? I don't know that it really matters overall.

Anyone use either the Reese/DT or B&W brands? Looking for input. How's the quality in the real world; do they measure up to their advertising?

Any other brands to consider?
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Fumoto drain valve / Power Steering Cooler added / Inverted Tranny Cooler / Autometer pyrometer / home-made diff cover / upgraded x-fer case skid plate

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Then, I used synthetics because I thought they were "best".
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Last edited by dnewton3; 02-16-2017 at 01:57 PM.
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Old 02-16-2017, 02:32 PM   #25 (permalink)
Rich1961
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dnewton3 View Post
I am going to resurrect this thread rather than start a new one ... forgive me, but this old thread has merit still ...

My factory hitch is rusted badly. I looked into fixing it (media blasting and then powder-coating) but it's going to be $160 for this route, with me doing the "upgrades" of adding strength. I was going to have it blasted, then I'd take it home to weld up weak areas and add gussets, and then take it for p-paint. Upside to this that I know I'll do a good job in the work and the local powder-paint place is well respected. The quality should be good overall.

Options:

Curt (#15400)
only lists "cab and chassis" hitches for my rig currently on their site. I'm not sure this is the correct frame because my truck is not cab/chassis version. Additionally, their two hitches must be drilled to mount. Didn't really want that extra work. Plus this will hang down pretty far, as it looks from pix; a bit gawdy.

Draw-Tite/Reese/HiddenHitch, etc (#41944)
All owned by same company
They do offer a couple of true bolt on units, with 16k tow and 1.6k tw. Powder-coated at factory. Not bad. Can be had for $150 on ebay includes shipping. They don't have a provision for the electrical harness socket mount, as best I can tell. Fully welded. Decent brands that are well known.

B&W (#HDRH25189)
Also offers a bolt on rig; same 16k tow / 1.6k tw ratings. Powder-coated. The kit does include an accessory mount for the electrical socket for the harness. It bolts together, but does have the same rating. Well known brand.
Also on Ebay for $150 including shipping.


I do not tow super heavy; probably the most I'll pull would be 10k pounds with my trailer/Kubota load. My RV weighs less than that. The truck gross trailer limit is 12k pounds, so the DT and B&W are well over-rated for my application at 16k tow / 1.6 tw.

Also, the OEM GM hitch uses the bumper as an integral load carrying point, whereas the aftermarket units simply use the frame only. Can anyone thinks of a pro/con either way here? I don't know that it really matters overall.

Anyone use either the Reese/DT or B&W brands? Looking for input. How's the quality in the real world; do they measure up to their advertising?

Any other brands to consider?
Check out the TorkLift SuperHitch. Very heavy duty, but more expensive also. Used by many truck camper owners that have hitch extensions to clear the back of the large slide in campers.

Rich
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Old 02-16-2017, 05:36 PM   #26 (permalink)
dnewton3
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Torklift is $593 on ebay. Don't think so; that's ridiculous.


I took the OEM hitch to the sand-blaster today and we looked it over together. The general feeling we both have is that there is too much risk repairing this one. If he blasts it enough to get a thorough cleaning job, there are many areas that may be at risk of being too thin. What a total POS. However that is right in line with all the other crap on this truck that has rusted to a point of needing replacement (brake lines, tranny lines, fuel lines and cooler ...).


I am trying to decide between the B&M and the Draw-Tite.
Anyone got direct ownership or know someone who does?
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2006 White Chevy CC 4x4 3500 SRW W/T
6.6L Duramax LBZ / Allison trans / manual T-case with Riverside Gear pump-rub-elimination upgrade / coolant bypass filter / PCV reroute
Fumoto drain valve / Power Steering Cooler added / Inverted Tranny Cooler / Autometer pyrometer / home-made diff cover / upgraded x-fer case skid plate

Member #2 of the "OIL is OIL" association
I used to use dino oil because I didn't know any better.
Then, I used synthetics because I thought they were "best".
Now, I use dino, because I know the truth!

Last edited by dnewton3; 02-16-2017 at 05:39 PM.
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Old 02-16-2017, 07:36 PM   #27 (permalink)
64bawagon
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I replaced mine so long ago that I honestly don't recall what brand it is. Other than the increased weight rating the aftermarket hitch had a better finish on it. It was decidedly heavier gauge steel and did not use the bumper as a structural component. The side plates that bolt to the frame were thicker, wider and extended further forward than the stock hitch, this reduced flexing when the weight distributing bars were torqued down and actually gave a better ride with the trailer since the weight that transferred to the front wheels was more consistent because the hitch wasn't twisting as the load changed. I know I bought it on Etrailer and my recollection is that it wasn't much over $200
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Old 02-16-2017, 07:55 PM   #28 (permalink)
dnewton3
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I just bought one at ... WALMART!

I got the Draw-Tite #41944 for $133+tax
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Draw-Tite...-inch/35530111
I narrowed it down to the B&W and DrawTite. Both were available at W/M, but the D-T was cheaper. I watched some 'tube vidoes on the installations and they both seemed well made and far better than the OEM unit.

For reference, the B&W was $154+tax, so the DrawTite was about $24 cheaper, for a hitch with the same haul and tongue ratings! (16k and 1.6k) It's a good unit too, but why spend the extra money for exact same load ratings?

I just cannot beat that W/M price, and the shipping is free to the store! Store is right on my way home. Actually cheaper at W/M with free pick-up ($142 with tax) than Ebay with free shipping ($149).

I recently bought my AC/Delco replacement tranny lines from Walmart also; best price and free shipping to store. Got a replacement GM door speaker also. It's getting too darn easy to shop Wally-world online and pick up stuff with no shipping costs!


.
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dnewton3
2006 White Chevy CC 4x4 3500 SRW W/T
6.6L Duramax LBZ / Allison trans / manual T-case with Riverside Gear pump-rub-elimination upgrade / coolant bypass filter / PCV reroute
Fumoto drain valve / Power Steering Cooler added / Inverted Tranny Cooler / Autometer pyrometer / home-made diff cover / upgraded x-fer case skid plate

Member #2 of the "OIL is OIL" association
I used to use dino oil because I didn't know any better.
Then, I used synthetics because I thought they were "best".
Now, I use dino, because I know the truth!

Last edited by dnewton3; 02-16-2017 at 08:03 PM.
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Old 02-27-2017, 10:38 PM   #29 (permalink)
Coolbreeze
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Comes complete with rusting to crap in 5 years as well as twisting and what ever else it does. Curt or even Reese Class 5 will get you all fixed up. Only problem is cutting of the 7 pin connector. You can get it welded to the new hitch if you like.
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Old 02-27-2017, 11:17 PM   #30 (permalink)
dmax3500
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the real problem is,look at how all these mounts bolt to the truck,on the bottom of the frame rails,,they need to be bolted top and bottom and thru the sides too

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