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Old 09-25-2015, 02:35 PM   #21 (permalink)
Ron Nielson
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If your system was working correctly, the dashed lines would turn into small blocks and the harder you pressed on the brake peddle, more blocks would display like they were advancing from left to right, similar to a horizontal line graph but dynamic, giving you a visual display of the amount of braking pressure. If you make the tester that was described and for which you can find pictures if you search for them, (or see here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mhzkx7ymhJA) and attach the tester to your 7-way receptacle, you would get a 'TRAILER CONNECTED' message and when you stepped on the brakes, IF THE PRESSURE MODULE WAS WORKING CORRECTLY, then you would see the blocks advance left to right. That would tell you if your truck-side system were working correctly. If no advancing blocks, like heymccall says, try a new pressure switch. Doesn't cost much, very easy to do. According to ALLDATADIY, it is a .9 hour job a the dealer to change the switch, plus their cost for the switch.

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Old 09-25-2015, 04:23 PM   #22 (permalink)
padredw
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Quote:
try a new pressure switch. Doesn't cost much, very easy to do.
Can you direct me to a site that will give me the very detailed steps in the bleeding of the line that may be required. I see the switch and think I would have no trouble replacing it, but I'm not so sure about what will be required after that.

Thanks for the patience of everyone toward an octogenarian who is somewhat mechanically challenged.

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Old 09-25-2015, 05:13 PM   #23 (permalink)
Ron Nielson
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Go to YOUTUBE.COM and enter 'bleed brakes silverado' Choose video you prefer. Maybe https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2KpKxD8zOUI as a general guide.
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Old 09-28-2015, 02:28 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Icon6

OK, here is my update report. I got a headlight for $25. When hooked directly up to the ground and brake posts on the pickup recpticle this is the result:

Display: "Trailer Connected" then when the manual controller is engaged, the gain is properly shown and the moving blocks move across. The headlight is illuminated.

When only the brake pedal is engaged the display looks the same exactly, BUT the lamp is not illuminated.

Please help me to interprest this result and help me to know where to go from here.
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Old 09-28-2015, 03:13 PM   #25 (permalink)
Ron Nielson
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Quote:
Originally Posted by heymccall View Post
The headlamp was to rule out the integrity of the trailer wiring.
Again, I believe the pressure switch is bad. Unthread the old one and thread in a new one. Then, bleed the front calipers.
I think Brian has your answer. It takes the rest of us a little longer to arrive at the same conclusion. Slow learners, I guess.
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Old 09-28-2015, 03:14 PM   #26 (permalink)
heymccall
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When manual apply is done, more blocks grow on screen.
When you depress brake pedal, do more blocks grow, as you press harder? If not, the pressure switch on the master cylinder is suspect still.
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Old 09-28-2015, 04:07 PM   #27 (permalink)
padredw
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Quote:
When manual apply is done, more blocks grow on screen.
When you depress brake pedal, do more blocks grow, as you press harder? If not, the pressure switch on the master cylinder is suspect still.
When the manual apply AND when the brake pedal is depressed, the DISPLAY is the very same. The blocks grow across as more pressure is applied. The display seems to be entirely in sync with the amount of pressure either by the pedal or by varying the movement on the manual.

NOW: the only difference is in the illumination of the headlamp. It shows progressive illumination when the manual is applied slowly. It NEVER shows any illumination when the brake pedal is applied, even though the display shows exactly the same progression of the blocks.

One small update: I was able to get a 7 way plug to wire up to the brake and ground. Everything worked exactly as the direct connection as described above.

Maybe we are making progress.

I would add: when connected to the trailer. We get none of the above. Just the static dashes. I tried it again after the above test. Same result.

Last edited by padredw; 09-28-2015 at 04:10 PM.
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Old 09-28-2015, 04:52 PM   #28 (permalink)
heymccall
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Do all 3 stoplamps work on the truck?
Does the cruise control work?
I can't remember which set of stoplamp switch contacts are in use, but the Rube Goldberg-esque stoplamp switch is a common failure point. On my trucks, the contacts for cruise usually die first.
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Its not like I said I enjoyed reading Good Housekeeping while taking a candle lit bubble bath then proceeding to using a loofah with exfoliating creams all while thinking about you . Now THAT would be creepy
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Last edited by heymccall; 09-28-2015 at 04:53 PM.
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Old 09-28-2015, 05:31 PM   #29 (permalink)
padredw
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OK, fresh off the road test! (Pick up only, of course)

Stop lights all working normally, so is the cruise control. I had to road test because I rarely use the cruise while towing.

Thanks for sticking with me on this. I have learned a great deal already, so it has been worth the effort.

Last edited by padredw; 09-28-2015 at 05:34 PM. Reason: Just to add thanks.
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Old 09-29-2015, 08:48 PM   #30 (permalink)
rdminter
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This maybe a stupid question, I am not entirely familiar with this type of brake controller.
Is there a direct connection with the brake switch on the pedal? or is it wired internally in the brake circuit? The brake switches are notorious for having failures and causing brake controller problems with the stand alone types.

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