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Old 04-28-2011, 10:21 AM   #41 (permalink)
Airborne
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...good idea to check that your 5th wheel disconnect pin hasn't been messed with when your rig is unattended. Heard a horror story of punks pulling disconnect pins in a parking lot and setting back to watch the damage as the owner pulled out!!!!!
Some hitches have lockable handles or you can easily mod.

Also...was talking about damage to the underside of a 5er with old timer and he told me he pulled into a spot for the weekend and extended his landing legs and pulled the disconnect pin. Dear wife decided she wanted the spot accross the street so being pissed off, he retracted the legs and went to pull accross the street. The damage to his truck and 5er was readily apparent and embarrasing for him.
Morale of the story....don't get distracted, check all connections as if it was the first time you hooked up.

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Old 05-02-2011, 12:11 AM   #42 (permalink)
Diesel 4me
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[QUOTE=Airborne;4275830]...good idea to check that your 5th wheel disconnect pin hasn't been messed with when your rig is unattended. Heard a horror story of punks pulling disconnect pins in a parking lot and setting back to watch the damage as the owner pulled out!!!!!
Some hitches have lockable handles or you can easily mod.

Great point Airborne....luckily my Reese 16k has a provision to lock the release handle. Just gotta always install the lock

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Old 11-20-2011, 08:07 PM   #43 (permalink)
GenBiltstein
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I inspected a hitch on a truck and decided the best thing to do....
One thing I did today was remove the entire hitch assembly and derust it. It's been a hitch for 10 years running but she was deeply pitted. There was no primer and only a "Reese" paint job. I know how easy it can be to forget a hitch but do an inspection. Rust had a way eating the hell out of this one.
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Old 02-19-2012, 09:41 AM   #44 (permalink)
achevyman
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You guys covered everything I can think of and do every time I hook-up. Only thing I can add is to cover your tires when not in use. I use the white covers available at any r/v store. Cardboard or plywood can also work, not only on your r/v but also the utility trailer you use on the odd ocasion. Great post keep it going.
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Old 03-04-2012, 11:46 AM   #45 (permalink)
puff69
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Hey Guys

Just wanted to add (all good information but did not see) check to make sure your break away system if you have it is working. Your break away chain or cable should be attached to the vehicle and not the tow chains. Also with this if your break away has a separate battery, is it in good shape and does it have a charge in it..?

From the trucking side we always do a walk around to check tires, chains, lights, connections, etc...everyone checks what they have for a list in their own head. Just wondering how many other actually stop at the brake check BEFORE you go down those long steep hills..?

Puff
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Old 12-21-2012, 05:22 PM   #46 (permalink)
VanBoy
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Very complete thread!

Here's how I kind of do things, granted, I have a Class B CDL, so I kind of have the mind set of safety (I drive school bus....). I also drive my own semi-truck for the farm (no class A needed for farm use). I don't have any weight distributing hitches, so I can't say what to inspect/proper install.... (trying to think of everything vs when ya are out there are two different things )

Electrical
-brake lights
-tail lights
-turn signals
-markers
-break away battery charge (if electric brakes)- need volt tester
-check wiring coupler/plug for damage (ie dragging/cracks)

Coupler/trailer tongue area
-ball coupler lubrication
-coupler mounted (ball type secure, no broken welds or loose bolts)
-ball on receiver tight
-correct ball size, rating & receiver
-coupler locks securely
-safety chains mounted/secure to trailer-no drag marks
-chain hooks look good
-battery break away switch wired, safety cable routed and hooked to vehicle
-coupler lock (be it a bolt, pin, or pad lock)
-check for cracks in frame
-check receiver hitch on truck! (mounting bolts tight?)

Suspension/Axles, etc
-fenders mounted, nothing loose
-tires inflated to sidewall recommendation
-tires the correct LOAD rating for what you are using!!!
-tires have no cracks in sidewall
-rims lug nuts tight (non missing)
-grease hub (if fitted)
-U bolts tight
-spring hangers bolts tight
-tread wear patters- indicate in issue
-springs have no cracks (ie look for lines of rust), have not shifted
-if Tor-Flex (aka rubber suspension), look for "leaning" of trailer
-electric brake wiring secure under trailer/axle

Load
-no loose parts of load that can blow off
-load secured w/ correct rated hardware
-strap to secure over load, 1 for every 10 feet of length of load, if not more

(Electric) trailer brakes
-manually active controller to stop combination (also verify's strength of hookup.) Can your trailer brakes stop the pulling vehicle at low speed?
- check & adjust controller response to load of vehicle prior to leaving
- test/adjust once brakes warm

Other
If you can, before leaving on (long) trip (if it is trailer you don't use all the time), drive around for 5 miles, go back home, check everything including:

-tire temperature
-hub temperature (hot hub= bad bearing)

Stuff to have with you- (stuff I take *)
-spare tire for trailer*
-bottle jack stubby enough to fit under trailer axle/frame*
-wood blocks (for tire chalk and to lift up bottle jack if too short)*
-tire "star" or 12V impact or breaker bar w/ correct sockets (some tire stars are not deep enough for long studs)*
- length of chain to chain up bad tire/axle (ya know the trick, jack up axle, way up- wrap chain over axle and hook to frame...when ya let it down, axle/tire does not touch ground)*
-extra trailer wheel bearings/grease
-12V tire infiltrator & gauge*


Why do I feel like this was a test.....


Oh, when driving, KNOW YOUR VEHICLE!!!! Leave enough distance between you and the one in front. If someone pulls in, back off leave enough room in case you have to do and E-stop....
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Old 04-14-2013, 10:06 PM   #47 (permalink)
01hunter570
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i always check my lights as trailers are notorous for light failure. i agree with checking the nut on the bottom of the ball as i also had the same experience with one coming loose. i also after hooking the trailer on the ball, crank the trailer jack down to see if it starts lifting up the truck to be sure it latched on the ball. also check trailer emergency brake battery and make sure the cable is hooked to the rear of the truck. be sure jack is all the way up and safety chains are not to close to the road.
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Old 03-26-2014, 03:54 PM   #48 (permalink)
steakman
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GReat Thread.!

keep er going boys..!

theo
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Old 07-10-2014, 11:26 AM   #49 (permalink)
route66express
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White lithium grease, having a slick ball will help out all the way around, big help with fuel economy.
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Old 02-15-2015, 10:23 PM   #50 (permalink)
Sturgeon-Phish
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Chock wheels whenever hitching up or unhitching.
Jim

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