Safety items to ALWAYS do when towing - Page 2 - Diesel Place : Chevrolet and GMC Diesel Truck Forums
 
Home Forum Market Place Garage Tuning Library DTC Tool Register Vendors
Go Back   Diesel Place : Chevrolet and GMC Diesel Truck Forums > Speciality Forums > Towing
Register FAQ Forum Rules My Replies My Threads Mark Forums Read Advertise

Towing Discuss Anything Related To Towing With Your Diesel. Any RV-specific discussions belong here.

DieselPlace.com is the premier Duramax Diesel Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Like Tree12Likes

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
Old 06-08-2010, 09:05 PM   #11 (permalink)
txdutt
Diesel Head
 
txdutt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Parker CO
Posts: 593
iTrader Score: 0 reviews

Quote:
Originally Posted by AlligatorPerformance View Post
One thing I've always wondered, this being a safety thread and all, is how to set up the weight distributing hitch properly. I was taught to hook up the trailer, latch it, then lift the weight off the truck by the tongue jack so it sets level , hook up the weight distributing bars, then lower the weight onto the the truck and trailer so it loads the weight evenly across both vehicles. Is this how you all do it? Seems to work for me just fine...
works for me the last 5 years I've had a Travel Trailer!! I have a routine I do everytime I hook up, basically after I've hooked up & completed a light check I walk around the trailer to make sure everything is closed & locked, double check all of my pins are in for the wd bars & sway control, chains & breakaway switch wire aren't bindin, then test the IBC manually after I've pulled out of my storage space but while still in the storage yard. Go throught the same thing pulling out of the campground with the addition of checking to make sure the antennae is down and everything around the trailer is picked up...

__________________
2007.5 Silverado 2500HD LTZ SB CC 4wd-6.0 LY6
Blue Granite w/Ebony Leather
Factory Navig/DVD/IBC/Fumoto Drain Valve
Line-X Bedliner/Bullydog Triple Dog Tune
VR3 b-up camera/Lund Genesis Tri-Fold Tonneau
2007 Jayco Eagle 328RLS Trvl Trlr 9200 GVW
2009 Jeep Wrangler Sahara Unlimited 4 Door

SOLD-2005 Silverado 2500HD LT CC LLY

U.S. Navy 1978-1986
Offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 06-08-2010, 09:16 PM   #12 (permalink)
stump_breaker
Diesel Boss
 
stump_breaker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,003
iTrader Score: 0 reviews

Quote:
Originally Posted by AlligatorPerformance View Post
One thing I've always wondered, this being a safety thread and all, is how to set up the weight distributing hitch properly. I was taught to hook up the trailer, latch it, then lift the weight off the truck by the tongue jack so it sets level , hook up the weight distributing bars, then lower the weight onto the the truck and trailer so it loads the weight evenly across both vehicles. Is this how you all do it? Seems to work for me just fine...
Yep. I actually slightly lift the rear of the truck with the trailer jack before clamping the chains to the frame of the trailer. No bar needed doing it that way.

__________________
*2006 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD 4x4 Duramax
(Edge Evo modified stock, 4" turbo-back exhaust, modded air box)
*2004 Audi TT 3.2L AWD Convertible
*2003 Hyundai Sonata (deceased and replaced with a POS 1997 Taurus)
*1971 Ford TLB
*2008 New Holland 1510
Offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-08-2010, 09:16 PM   #13 (permalink)
PrivatePilot
Just Horsing Around
 
PrivatePilot's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Near The Coffee Maker
Posts: 17,558
iTrader Score: 0 reviews

Ontario Diesel Place Chapter Member

The crossing of safety chains is a no brainer - it's designed to cradle the hitch in case of disconnection and avoid having it hit the ground and dig in...which will have a predictable result. Suggesting that it can over-stress the chains or anything is hogwash - the chains should be strong enough to handle anything thrown at them in an emergency since they are afterall there solely for an emergency! If there's any question whatsoever that they won't hold the weight of the trailer no matter how they're placed then GET A BIGGER CHAIN.

FWIW, it's actually law in various provinces/states that the chains are crossed.

That aside, the most essential (and often overlooked) thing to do is the basic walkaround - put the clearance and hazard lights on and take a trip around your setup - look high (antenna down, vents closed, etc), look low (dragging safety chains, low tires, etc) and check all the lights! If possible, have someone in your cab step on the brake pedal as well to check function of the stop lights - hazard lights will tell you if the bulbs are working, but it won't tell you if your brake light switch is working.

Personally, between home (or the CG) and the highway I always make another stop, often at the beginning of the onramp and do another quick walkaround to make sure everything is road-ready one last time.
__________________
Mark - Courtice, Ontario, Canada.
SOLD: '97 C3500 Crew Cab Long Box Dually 6.5 Turbo Diesel.
Rebuilt with Navistar 506 block spring 2012
Special thanks to Racer55 and WhiteK2500 for their invaluable assistance!
Helping a friend: Duckies Longarm Quilting Oshawa / Durham Region!
Offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 06-08-2010, 09:17 PM   #14 (permalink)
malibu795
Diesel Mythbuster
 
malibu795's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: south charleston ohio
Posts: 6,811
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
Send a message via Yahoo to malibu795

Buckeye Oil Burners Member

i like seeing people take ~5 mintues to do a walk around on their rigs.

lazy and complacent get people hurt/killed.

on TT and GN dont forget to put some grease on the coupling... this will help prevent you balls to loosen and your rig to become "darty" when changeing lanes form metal on metal in the hitch coupling.

when i was driving/hauling stuff i have a little IR tmep gun shoot each tire.. if there was more then 10-15* diff between side to side i start looking more closely.

crossing safety chains.. if they are not peiced togehter they will never catch and pull each other.. they alos should be strong enough to indiviually carry your tongue wieght... same with you hooks.. no point in haveing a 2000lb test chain with a 500lb hook holding it on. one should have enough chain to be able to jackknife then trailer with out pulling the chains taunght.. and stay 3-4" off the ground so they are not draging nor get dragged
__________________
Adam Wildman
U.S. Navy 2000-2008
99 3500HD LBZ/4L85E C&C hotshot
7.5 3500 hd RCLB gt4088r hotshot
9-2-2003 dp mission statement
Quote:
Originally Posted by diesel power
This forum strives to please its members and provide the best quality and professionalism of information without political motivation which can obscure the truth.
Quote:
smooth seas never made a skillfull salior

Last edited by malibu795; 06-08-2010 at 09:20 PM.
Offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-08-2010, 09:26 PM   #15 (permalink)
PrivatePilot
Just Horsing Around
 
PrivatePilot's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Near The Coffee Maker
Posts: 17,558
iTrader Score: 0 reviews

Ontario Diesel Place Chapter Member

Another commonly overlooked thing is to ensure your breakaway cable is not only well clear of the ground so that it doesn't catch road debris (and accidentally get triggered) but is connected independent of the hitch or receiver - it should be attached somewhere to the truck where if total hitch failure occurred (taking the hitch and receiver completely off the truck) it will still be triggered.

You'd be surprised how often people leave the breakaway virtually dragging on the ground (just begging to be pulled out by hitting something on the highway) or have it wrapped around the hitch ball or attached somewhere that if the trailer became detached, it wouldn't even do it's job.
__________________
Mark - Courtice, Ontario, Canada.
SOLD: '97 C3500 Crew Cab Long Box Dually 6.5 Turbo Diesel.
Rebuilt with Navistar 506 block spring 2012
Special thanks to Racer55 and WhiteK2500 for their invaluable assistance!
Helping a friend: Duckies Longarm Quilting Oshawa / Durham Region!
Offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-08-2010, 09:50 PM   #16 (permalink)
kcb37
Diesel Expert
 
kcb37's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: TN
Posts: 2,623
iTrader Score: 0 reviews

TN Diesel Place Club Member

Armed Forces Club Member

This is a list I started for another fourm, it is mainly directed at bumper pull although it still applies to 5th,gooseneck, and w/d just a bit more to check for.
*Make sure the hitch, reciever, and ball are all rated for the weight of the trailer being pulled.
*Make sure the nut on the bottom of the ball is still tight.
*Make sure all the trailer lights are working, if applicable that the reflective saftey tape has not come off. (Reflective tape is required by law on some trailers )
*When hooking up, if you have help make sure you check everything yourself. Nice to have help but sometimes to many people leads to "I thought you got that"
*Make sure the chains are crossed under the hitch. (if the tounge falls off the ball the chains will craddle the tounge so you can somewhat safely stop it)
*Make sure the trailer is locked on the ball.
*Make sure the trailer brakes are working correctly, to include the controler.
*Make sure the tires are in good condition, meet the load rating of the trailer, and are all the same size. (not dry rotted, at proper PSI), 5 to 6 years seems to be a good interval for new tires to get good use and avoid blowouts.
*Make sure the bearings are greased and in good condition, along with having the caps and seals to keep dirt out and the grease in.
*Make sure load is properly tied down. (if a car or something similar the straps/chains should be at a 45 degree angle "they do not need to be in an x either way is fine")
*Make sure your chains/straps have the proper load rating for the load on the trailer.
*Periodically check the hitch and trailer frame for cracks, if you have a winch or other equipment check the mounting points also.
*Make sure the load on the trailer does not exceed the GVWR of the trailer. (for instance my GVWR is 10,000 pounds, however because my trailer weights 1,500 pounds I can only put 8,500 pounds on it. 1,500 + 8,500 = 10,000)
*Tounge weight should be between 10% to 15% total trailer weight. (10,000 pound trailer should have between 1,000 and 1,500 pounds on the ball, if you are unsure you can take your truck/trailer to a local scale)
*When you hook up or unhook a trailer do the complete hook up or unhook. (This prevents the trailer from falling off/lights not being hooked up ect..)
*When you hook up the brake away cable do not attach it to the frame. (if the hitch breaks the cable will go with it and will do nothing)
*When you are ready to go, pull the "pin" out on the breakaway box and try to drive forward. (if the trailer tires roll your battery/wires are bad, if it will not move or drags, put the pin back your good to go)
*Make sure the tounge jack is in the up position.
*Make sure the lugnuts are tight.
*Periodically charge the brakeaway battery. (regularly used trailers are not much of an issue but sesonal or little used trailers will lose the charge and the battery will go bad)

Along with this I thought I would add a list of tools/parts that may be useful to have.
*Spare tire and tools needed to change a tire. (jack/ramp, lug wrench)
*Some wire and a wiring kit. (to repaire lights and wires)
*Light bulbs. (to replace burnt out bulbs)
*Chock block(s)
*Extra straps/chains. (more of a problem with straps, but they get old/cut)
*Lock for the trailer tounge.
*Small tool kit. (some wrenchs, screw drivers, sockets. More or less what is needed to replace bulbs, fix wires, or any other items on your trailer to keep it roadworthy)
__________________
2003 2500HD Silverado, ECSB, 3.73, G80, Tekonsha P3, 4" Silverline Dual Exhaust 5" Tips, Autometer Boost & Pyro Guages, Mobil 1 Delvac (TES-295), Opti Lube XPD, 2nd set injectors 109,000, 3rd set injectors 153,000, Cobra 29LTD (peaked & tuned), Wilson 5,000 mileage 172,000
2005 Cavalier 4dr.
1996 1500 Silverado, ECSB, 5.7, 4L60E, 3.73's Powertrax Locker, Lakewood Slappers, mileage 190,000
1974 Corvette, 350, 4 speed, T-tops. Bright red. No tickets yet...
1949 F-1, Flathead 6, 4 speed
Offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-08-2010, 09:54 PM   #17 (permalink)
MarkD
Glow Plug
 
MarkD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Florence, SC
Posts: 242
iTrader Score: 0 reviews

I am definitely not as experienced or knowledgeable as the other posters, but one thing I do is use some sort of rubber treatment on the tires every chance I get to prevent dry rot. I also do the walk around and cross the chains. I pull a 10k enclosed about once a week.
__________________
08 GMC Sierra SLT CCSB 2500 HD 4x4 Z71
Stealth Blue Metaillic
WeatherTech FloorLiners, GM VCIM Bluetooth, OEM Towing Mirrors, GM 6" Oval Stainless step bars, Legal Tint on Front windows, Chevy Tailgate "Spoiler"
Nitto Trail Grappler 295/70R17 E
http://dmaxstore.com/
http://www.alligatorperformance.com/
Offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-08-2010, 09:58 PM   #18 (permalink)
malibu795
Diesel Mythbuster
 
malibu795's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: south charleston ohio
Posts: 6,811
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
Send a message via Yahoo to malibu795

Buckeye Oil Burners Member

Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkD View Post
I am definitely not as experienced or knowledgeable as the other posters, but one thing I do is use some sort of rubber treatment on the tires every chance I get to prevent dry rot. I also do the walk around and cross the chains. I pull a 10k enclosed about once a week.
easiest way is prevent the sun form hitting the tires then UV ray dry out then rubber the quickest. when sittign for extened periods of time
__________________
Adam Wildman
U.S. Navy 2000-2008
99 3500HD LBZ/4L85E C&C hotshot
7.5 3500 hd RCLB gt4088r hotshot
9-2-2003 dp mission statement
Quote:
Originally Posted by diesel power
This forum strives to please its members and provide the best quality and professionalism of information without political motivation which can obscure the truth.
Quote:
smooth seas never made a skillfull salior
Offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-08-2010, 10:14 PM   #19 (permalink)
Phathead
Diesel Student
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: TN
Posts: 43
iTrader Score: 0 reviews

Could someone show pics of saftey chains crossed with a WD system. I have wondered which way is proper. I have always crossed them with boats and such but with the WD set up I am not sure.
__________________
new to me 2006 LBZ LT3 4x4 stock as far as I know
Duramax Allison CC SB
24300 miles and loving the truck
17 mpg by hand so far
23ft max sport upgraded to a Spree 321bhs 7000# plus thanks to truck.
Offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-08-2010, 10:21 PM   #20 (permalink)
malibu795
Diesel Mythbuster
 
malibu795's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: south charleston ohio
Posts: 6,811
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
Send a message via Yahoo to malibu795

Buckeye Oil Burners Member

Quote:
Originally Posted by Phathead View Post
Could someone show pics of saftey chains crossed with a WD system. I have wondered which way is proper. I have always crossed them with boats and such but with the WD set up I am not sure.
under the tongue like you would a trailer with out the WD system..
if then coupling goes the WD bars are going straight out to the side and the tongue will fall verticly down.

__________________
Adam Wildman
U.S. Navy 2000-2008
99 3500HD LBZ/4L85E C&C hotshot
7.5 3500 hd RCLB gt4088r hotshot
9-2-2003 dp mission statement
Quote:
Originally Posted by diesel power
This forum strives to please its members and provide the best quality and professionalism of information without political motivation which can obscure the truth.
Quote:
smooth seas never made a skillfull salior
Offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Diesel Place : Chevrolet and GMC Diesel Truck Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

PLEASE READ! You must check your email inbox for the confirmation link to complete registration. Please check your spam box if you do not see the email in your inbox.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:
Insurance
Please select your insurance company (Optional)

Log-in


Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
History of your lb7-items failed-items worn out!! AZHUNTER Duramax First Generation: 2001-2004 (LB7) 23 10-08-2012 01:38 PM
WTB: Banks items and PPE items for LMM jaydcc69 Closed / Archived Marketplace Ads 2 07-30-2008 09:36 PM
Trailer towing and Safety ( articals from the web ) jdcrawler Truck Uses 28 03-03-2008 08:38 PM
Add on items. Lindyn46 Exterior 0 05-19-2006 02:50 PM
A Few Items 05LLY2500HD Closed / Archived Marketplace Ads 6 05-26-2005 02:17 AM


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 09:20 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
SEO by vBSEO 3.6.1
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2019 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Shoutbox provided by vBShout v6.2.1 (Lite) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2019 DragonByte Technologies Ltd. Runs best on HiVelocity Hosting.
© AutoGuide