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Old 07-30-2010, 10:22 PM   #11 (permalink)
deminimis
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Well shave my butt and call me purdy. Swapped out the brake pressure sensor and bingo! Problem solved. Got the part from Discount GM Parts (Flow Chev). Best $80 or so I ever spent.

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Old 07-31-2010, 12:27 AM   #12 (permalink)
Ron Nielson
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[quote=Sharks;3815243]
Quote:
Originally Posted by dur0maxx View Post
Dealer looked at mine today, said it was the pressure sensor or something that reads hydraulic pressure from the master cylinder. I'll know more tomorrow when I pick it up and have the parts list in front of me.

Took mime to the dealer today. I couldn't find the problem myself. It was the same thing..... The pressure switch on the hydroboost. It's fix for now.....

Are you still fixed? Any more problems show up after replacing the brake pressure sensor? And was it raining or wet outside when you would see this ITBC problem?

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Old 08-09-2010, 06:36 PM   #13 (permalink)
amgthis
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same problem same fix

My '08 GMC 2500 Duramax has had the same problem for over a year. I haven't had the need to tow so I basically ignored it. Seeing how the truck is
almost off warranty I went by the dealer and they said that switch was bad on the master cylinder and replaced it, then power bled the front brakes.
The sensor converts the pressure to a voltage output to the trailer brake control to tell it how much to brake. Mine was zero all the time on output since it was dead. All fine now.
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Old 09-27-2010, 11:08 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Mine is doing the same thing. Does anyone have any pictures on how to replace the sensor, or how to test and make sure that is what is bad?
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Old 09-28-2010, 12:01 AM   #15 (permalink)
Ron Nielson
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It's pretty simple. Unplug the sensor, unscrew it, replace it and make sure you put in a new o-ring. Do not lubricate o-ring or sensor. Plug in sensor. Bleed brakes front wheels only.

Lots of people who have problems with their ITBC find that this is the fix for their problems. And the sensor price is pretty reasonable if you shop around.

If you hook your trailer to your truck and the DIC says TRAILER CONNECTED, step on the brakes and the DIC display should show more 'blocks' as you increase the pressure; less blocks as you lighten the brake pedal. If you don't see the 'blocks' increase as you increase pressure, it's likely the sensor.

[IMG]file:///C:/Users/Ron/Desktop/brake%20sensor.gif[/IMG]
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File Type: jpg brake sensor.jpg (54.9 KB, 183 views)
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Old 09-29-2010, 08:45 PM   #16 (permalink)
honda_400ex
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is there any way to test the sensor before removing it or buying a new one?
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Old 09-29-2010, 09:24 PM   #17 (permalink)
heymccall
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The easiest test to rule out trailer problems is to make a tester with a 7 pin plug two sections of wire and an automotive headlamp. BTW, we're over here doing the same thing (sort of) https://www.dieselplace.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=390677
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Old 09-29-2010, 10:43 PM   #18 (permalink)
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I've read your other posts, I know its not a trailer issue. I was wondering how to figure out how to troubleshoot the sensor that some seem to have had luck with replacing.
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Old 09-29-2010, 11:52 PM   #19 (permalink)
heymccall
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Quote:
Originally Posted by honda_400ex View Post
I've read your other posts, I know its not a trailer issue. I was wondering how to figure out how to troubleshoot the sensor that some seem to have had luck with replacing.
I'm gonna assume that you made a tester for the ITBC output (if you didn't, quit making excuses), SO...........

The Master Cylinder Pressure Sensor operates from a 5V reference generated within the EBCM. It also has a ground and an output.

Pin A (Ye/Bk tracer)....... Ground (referenced, not chassis)
Pin B (Gray)..................5 Volt reference
Pin C (Orange)..............Sensor output

With the pedal not depressed, key on, measure across B to A with a digital voltmeter. Voltage should be around 1 volt. Have a helper depress, slowly, the brake pedal all the way to full apply, and the voltage should rise to nearly 5 volts. Failure to change voltage will indicate a faulty sensor.


BTW, resistance between the blue and white wires on the trailer must be 2.0 Ohms or less. One magnet will not allow the system to operate under pedal braking BUT it will respond to the manual apply.
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Old 09-30-2010, 01:54 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by heymccall View Post
I'm gonna assume that you made a tester for the ITBC output (if you didn't, quit making excuses), SO............
Ha ha. yes, I have followed alot of your previous posts. I always check on here before I ask. I have measured ohms on the trailer and it is showing fine.

I tested my plug with your tester, made it free with parts lying around.

I have been reading other posts of issues people have been having and many trips to dealers changing controllers and relays, and anti-lock brake sensors.

This sensor sounds like it might be easy and cheap enough to try first. But i wanted to know if there was a way to test it.

Thanks for all your help. I have learned so much more on trailer brakes and controllers from your posts.

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MBRP 409 4" Duals - Edge CTS Race - AFE Intake, Cognito Arms, Bilsteins, Super Diesel Tie Rod Sleeves, Dually Rear Clearance Light, AMP Steps, 6000K HIDs, 20" XD Hoss, 285/55/20 Nitto Terra's, 2011 Bumper/Grille

1987 K20 8" lift 38" Boggers
www.cardomain.com/id/silverado24s
www.alligatorperformance.com
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