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Old 05-13-2008, 09:23 AM   #11 (permalink)
Diesel Specialist
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Terryville, Ct
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CT Smoke Member

gvwr i believe is 9200lbs, and the truck weighs (well mine anyway cc/sb) 7200lbs with me. so that leaves me with 200lbs cargo weight. the rear weight should not be a problem as long as the trailer is loaded right. not to far forward ect.

as far as trucks, the cc 2500 should be fine and a sort box will work, up to you. the 3500 will carry more rear weight. the mileage is also a toss up. the lb7 claim the best mileage, but the 06 and up have the best power. if your towing in the mountains out west or were it is warmer i'd stay away from the lly 04.5-05. they have over heat problems. see that engine section for the threads on it.

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Old 05-14-2008, 03:29 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Michigan Oil Burners Member

GVWR for the various trucks are:
2500 HD = 9,200 lbs
3500 SRW= 9,900 lbs (Single rear wheels)
3500 DRW= 11,400 lbs (Dually)
All three are available with Crew Cabs. The 3500's all have 8 ft long beds and the 2500's are available with the 6.5 ft short bed or the 8 ft long bed.

If I was going to buy a used truck, I would look for a 2006 or 2007 LBZ. They have the least amount of problems and don't have the new DPF and emission crap that the new LMM trucks have, making them less complicated to run and maintain. (360hp / 650 lb-ft Torque) The 2007 trucks carry the 5yr/100,000mi factory warranty on the complete powertrain. Whereas the 2006 trucks' 5yr/100,000mi warranty is only on the engine. The rest of the powertrain on the 2006 is covered under the 36mo/36,000mi bumper to bumper warranty, unless you buy a GM Certified Used Truck from a GM dealer, which could get the 5yr/100,000mi warranty on the complete powertrain just like the 2007 trucks.

When you all talk about a flatbed fiver, do you really mean a gooseneck trailer?

If you get a 5th wheel trailer, you'll either want to get a long bed truck, or a short bed with a slider hitch. If I were getting a slider hitch, the PullRite SuperGlide would be my choice. It's expensive but works automatically and you never have to worry about remembering to move the slider on tight turns.

A gooseneck trailer on a short bed truck will be less likely to contact the cab on tight turns. Many members like the B&W Turnover Ball Gooseneck Hitch which allows you to have unobstructed use of the bed when not towing the trailer.

If you are concerned about the 9,200 lbs load carrying capacity of the 2500HD and don't want to get a dually, you may want to consider a 3500 SRW, they are all long bed trucks and have 9,900 GVWR.

A 6,000 lb load on a bumper pull trailer is nothing for the Duramax to pull. Keep in mind that the OEM receiver is rated for 7,500 lbs if you pull dead weight. It's rated for 12,000 lbs with a weight distributing hitch.

Many owners will replace the OEM hitch receiver if they do any serious towing. Reese Tow Beast is rated for 12,000 lbs dead weight and 14,000 lbs with a WD hitch. The Putnam SDR is rated for 14,000 / 15,000.

Don't forget to get a good quality trailer brake controller. Tekonsha Prodigy or their flagship P3 Controller are very reliable and are very popular with members here.

Whatever trailer yo buy, make sure that it can handle the 6,000+ lb payload of your container plus any extra equipment you may want to carry This means that you'll probably be looking at a 8,000+ lb GVWR trailer. Many of the cheaper 2-axle car trailers will NOT be able to carry a 6,000+ lb payload.

If you decide to get a New Body Style truck, do NOT get the integrated trailer brake controller. A large number of owners are having problems with the integrated trailer brake controllers and GM is having a difficult time figuring out how to fix the problem.

2006 GMC 2500HD - SLE1-3SA, Ext-Cab, Std Bed, 4x4, LBZ
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