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Drivetrain - 2001 - 2010 Discuss front and rear axle, transfer case, brakes, etc. Transmission questions belong in the appropriate transmission forum below. First through fourth generation...


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Old 12-02-2019, 03:20 AM   #1 (permalink)
davester
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Replaced center support bearing for driveshaft

My truck has had a low speed vibration & a kind of jerking motion happening sometimes at speed when extra power is needed (such as going uphill towing a trailer), and the only thing I could find being a problem was the center support bearing (CSB), it could move quite a bit (maybe about 3/8" from pulling down to pushing up). Ordered a new bearing and today was install day.


Marked the driveshaft so I could reinstall it the same way on the rear yoke, removed it, checked all the u-joints (they still feel good, they were replaced when the center support bearing was replaced, about 60k km ago, when I had the driveshaft shortened as part of upgrading the truck to 4wd), and checked the CSB. The CSB was shot, and the inner part of the rubber mount had almost completely separated from the outer part:


IMG_1522.jpg

I'm not sure why the end of the driveshaft is rusty like that. The shop had painted everything black, and put stickers on both halves of the shaft to indicate how they should be aligned, and for some reason, all the paint for the last 1" is gone and it's all rusty now. Only part of it like that...

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Last edited by davester; 12-02-2019 at 03:23 AM.
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Old 12-02-2019, 03:28 AM   #2 (permalink)
davester
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Used a bearing splitter and a small press to get the bearing off.


IMG_1524.jpg


It's a small press, for a long driveshaft, so I needed to put some wood blocks under it to get enough clearance for the driveshaft, and use some square tubing as the support platform instead of the OEM much stouter platform, as the driveshaft wouldn't fit through it. It didn't take much pressure to get it out.



IMG_1523.jpg

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Old 12-02-2019, 03:51 AM   #3 (permalink)
davester
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Cleaned up the bearing mounting surface with some emery paper, and cleaned off all the grease from the splines, and then began the hunt for some tubing of the right diameter to use for pounding the new carrier bearing on.


IMG_1526.jpg

Initially, I could only find some tubing about 1/2" too big, so I began making a plate adapter with the right ID that I could tack-weld to the tubing, but halfway through making it, I found another piece of tubing that was just slightly too small, that I could bore out a smidge and it worked great.


IMG_1525.jpg


I didn't want to damage the driveshaft by holding it in a vise or having one end against the ground and hammer on the other end, so I just held the driveshaft between my legs, and used the tube to hammer the CSB and then the grease cup/shield into place. It didn't take a lot of effort for either one.


I lubed up the splines with this stuff Jet-Lube MP-50 Moly Paste, a thick molybdenum grease, as from what little I read, molybdenum greases seems to recommended for this application, albeit a thinner grease than what this stuff is, but it's what I've got (and it's this, wheel bearing grease, or regular chassis grease):

IMG_1527.jpg


Reassembled and installed it in the truck, and went for a short test drive. It's definitely better, but there's still some low-speed rumbling, seems more from the front now. Didn't feel any jerking during the drive, but I think it'll take more driving to see if it really has gone away with this fix.


I also bought lower ball joints for the front end, as I noticed the boot on one of them had split, and they are probably original. As part of replacing them, I'll check out the front hubs more closely, as I've checked them for play by pushing/pulling at 6 & 12 and didn't feel much movement then.
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Old 12-03-2019, 08:49 AM   #4 (permalink)
BillB3857
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The rust line on the drive shaft, to me, looks like the shaft had moved toward the CSB to the point that it went into the frame of the CSB. The remaining rubber simply rubbed all the paint off.

When I replaced my CSB, I filled all the molded in gaps of the OEM rubber with urethane rubber. It stiffened and strengthened the rubber support.
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Old 12-03-2019, 03:37 PM   #5 (permalink)
davester
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillB3857 View Post
The rust line on the drive shaft, to me, looks like the shaft had moved toward the CSB to the point that it went into the frame of the CSB. The remaining rubber simply rubbed all the paint off.

When I replaced my CSB, I filled all the molded in gaps of the OEM rubber with urethane rubber. It stiffened and strengthened the rubber support.

The driveshaft definitely didn't move that far, as the rubber for the CSB hadn't completely separated, and it would need to for the driveshaft to move 2-3" back, and there would signs of it going into the the CSB, either some rubber onto the driveshaft, or the driveshaft would be scraped up by the metal hoop of the CSB.
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Old 12-03-2019, 11:26 PM   #6 (permalink)
Dooner
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"My truck has had a low speed vibration & a kind of jerking motion happening sometimes at speed when extra power is needed (such as going uphill towing a trailer), and the only thing I could find being a problem was the center support bearing (CSB), it could move quite a bit (maybe about 3/8" from pulling down to pushing up). Ordered a new bearing and today was install day.


Marked the driveshaft so I could reinstall it the same way on the rear yoke, removed it, checked all the u-joints (they still feel good, they were replaced when the center support bearing was replaced, about 60k km ago, when I had the driveshaft shortened as part of upgrading the truck to 4wd), and checked the CSB. The CSB was shot, and the inner part of the rubber mount had almost completely separated from the outer part"


Seems like this is at least the 2nd CSB replacement on this truck. Is this the truck in your sig, and how many miles?
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Old 12-04-2019, 02:20 AM   #7 (permalink)
davester
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Yes, it's the truck in my sig.


I installed 4wd in my truck at 220k km (with what the truck would have come with from the factory), and as part of it, I had the driveshaft shortened to make room for the transfer case. As part of shortening and balancing it, the shop recommended putting in a new CSB, which I ok'd. At that time, the original one didn't look or feel bad, but it likely had a bunch of miles on it. I don't know the brand of the part, don't think it was mentioned on the receipt, but it was likely one of the cheap, generic brands.



Now the truck has 280k km. And the new CSB is a SKF HB88505.


Right now, I think it failed relatively early because it was a cheap part.
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