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Drivetrain - 2001 - 2010 Discuss front and rear axle, transfer case, brakes, etc. Transmission questions belong in the appropriate transmission forum below. First through fourth generation... |
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#1 (permalink) |
Self Ignition
Join Date: May 2006
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Front Driver Brakes Hot!
I replaced my hubs few weeks ago and decided to change my front brake pads while there. They still had life, but had 125k miles, so I turned rotors and replaced pads. Truck ran fine and I checked for heat problems, all was good. Since last week the front driver brake seems to have been rubbing and producing heat on two occasions. I notice it's hot, like smell it and heat gun it at 450 ish. Get back in truck and continue driving and it's fine. Took things apart and seems fine. I did notice when installing there's not much room on the outer pad for movement, with new pads. I'm thinking caliber going bad, just odd I never had this problem before. Any other things to check? Truck has 125k original miles.
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2005 GMC 2500HD LLY Duramax Extended Cab; 4x4 Cat delete; PCV reroute; EGR blocked LBZ MP Kennedy Pump Rub Kit Bilstein 5100 Shocks 265/75/16 Cooper Discoverer ST Maxx Tires |
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#2 (permalink) |
Diesel Nut
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Port Orchard WA
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Seems like you might have calipers sticking.
Have you flushed brake fluid? I’d also check brake lines for possible replacement the hoses can get weak and partially collapse.
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#3 (permalink) |
Self Ignition
Join Date: May 2006
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Haven't flushed the fluid in a few years, it's not real dark, just slightly tinted. I removed the caliber and applied the brakes, 1 piston fully extended and the other one didn't. They didn't seem to retract after releasing break, if that means anything. I'm thinking changing caliper and hose.
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2005 GMC 2500HD LLY Duramax Extended Cab; 4x4 Cat delete; PCV reroute; EGR blocked LBZ MP Kennedy Pump Rub Kit Bilstein 5100 Shocks 265/75/16 Cooper Discoverer ST Maxx Tires |
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#4 (permalink) |
Self Ignition
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I replaced the caliber, hose and flushed the lines; seems to be working. The fluid looked pretty bad, that poured out of the caliber. Should i replace the caliber on the other side, also? I've been monitoring the rotor temps and they now run about the same, side to side.
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2005 GMC 2500HD LLY Duramax Extended Cab; 4x4 Cat delete; PCV reroute; EGR blocked LBZ MP Kennedy Pump Rub Kit Bilstein 5100 Shocks 265/75/16 Cooper Discoverer ST Maxx Tires |
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#5 (permalink) |
Diesel Head
Join Date: Mar 2013
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You shouldn't need to replace the other side, but servicing it properly would be a good idea. Most likely it was a sticking caliper pin on the failed side and the other will do the same if it's not cleaned and re-greased properly.
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#6 (permalink) |
Self Ignition
Join Date: May 2006
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Pins where all good. Pretty sure it was the caliber. I've had the calibers off and maintenanced a couple of times in the past year, while doing other front end work. I just changed both front hubs less than a month ago.
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#7 (permalink) | |
Diesel Nut
Join Date: Apr 2015
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Quote:
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#8 (permalink) |
Self Ignition
Join Date: May 2006
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What's a normal operating temp for the rotors or what's considered to hot? I know it's going to very on conditions.
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#9 (permalink) |
Self Ignition
Join Date: Mar 2007
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When I change calipers I do both sides, the other one will pile up at the most inconvenient time. I've seen a caliper lock up to the point the vehicle couldn't be driven.
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