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Drivetrain - 2001 - 2010 Discuss front and rear axle, transfer case, brakes, etc. Transmission questions belong in the appropriate transmission forum below. First through fourth generation...

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Old 08-06-2019, 04:02 PM  
Chris27
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LBZ Spider Gears Worn

I've been chasing a vibration for over a year now. On the weekend I put the truck on jack stands and ran it up to the speed where it vibrates. Pulled the wheels, no change. U-joints are good, actually replaced the aluminum driveshaft last year with a steel driveshaft because the aluminum yoke was worn letting the U-joint caps spin in the yoke. Checked all the U-joints again, all smooth and free. Then I drained the diff and pulled the cover. there seemed to be a lot of play in the gears, what I found out was the play was in the spider gears. Ring and pinion look good, a bit of backlash, but not abnormal for 190,000 miles. Would worn spider gears cause a vibration? I would expect a clunk when the slack is taken up, but not a vibration. It only vibrates when on the throttle, loaded or unloaded doesn't matter. Is this common with the G80?

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Old 08-07-2019, 12:41 PM  
Chris27
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I think I've got it figured. I put the truck up on jack stands and had my wife run the truck up to speed. The harmonic dampener on the pinion yolk has a bit of a wobble to it. I'm guessing that's where my vibration is coming from. Has anyone ever just cut the ring off to see if it made a difference? I'm thinking of trying that first, I have to replace the pinion yolk anyways.

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Old 08-07-2019, 05:47 PM  
Chris27
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I found a complete rear diff from a 2011 Duramax for a good price. Has anyone swapped a 2011 or newer rear into an older truck? It looks like I should be able to swap my hubs onto the newer axle to keep my bolt pattern. Has anyone done this? The internal parts are the same, just not sure about the hubs interchanging. Swapping the complete rear would be easier, but I could also use the carrier and pinion yoke to fix mine. Local wrecker has a 2006 complete rear, but they want over double what I can get this 2011 rear for. Just wanted to know if it's an easy swap.
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Old 09-01-2019, 03:23 PM  
Chris27
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Well, I found a good used rear from a 2004 LLY truck. Should be a direct bolt in right? Nope, my truck has 1410 U-joints, the "new" rear end has 1480 U-joints. Always something. Now I need to decide if I buy the $117 conversion U-joint, or the $200 pinion yoke with the proper 1410 end. As far as I can find, the only conversion joint available is a non greasable Neapco piece.
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Old 09-03-2019, 03:49 PM  
Chris27
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Ended up swapping yokes with my old diff. Vibration gone, all is right with the world again. This forum ended up being not much help, but maybe this will help someone inn the future. Turns out a trashed diff carrier will cause vibration.
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Old 09-03-2019, 04:08 PM  
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Thanks for posting what your fix was.


If you can plan fixing things (like replacing brake pads, replacing brake lines) vs got to this thing on the road today, it can be a LOT cheaper getting stuff out of the states, and you can get better quality parts.


If you haven't done your brake lines, you might consider looking them over for rust, as they will rust out and fail at the worst time... The two bad spots for them are where the lines run along the frame rail from the driver's side front wheel to the abs controller under the cab (easy to check), and along the frame rail above the fuel tank (hard to check).
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Old 09-03-2019, 06:05 PM  
Chris27
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Thanks for the heads up on the brake lines. I replaced the hard lines on the rear end when I had it out. I usually try to plan ahead and order parts from Rock Auto. Depending on the shipping costs, most of the time it's worth it. It's pretty frustrating seeing the part I need online for $35 US, and then getting a price of $117 CAD at the local parts store for the exact same part. Unfortunately, when you need stuff "right now" you have to pay the "right now" price. The U-joint issue was a surprise, I assumed they would be the same.
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Old 09-04-2019, 02:49 AM  
davester
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The pre-bent brake lines aren't too bad, buying from the local GM dealership, at least here in Edmonton, as the set was only $115 for my '04 Sierra Cab&Chassis. The only disappointing part was they don't include the hard lines across the rear axle, and don't sell those ones at all, so you have to fab them up yourself.
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