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Hydrobooster upgrade

LBZ: 
25K views 28 replies 12 participants last post by  bob blair 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
hey
i've looked around and cant find it. can i use a lml 2011 hydrobooster to upgrade mine in the 2007 gmc sierra classic crew cab. and if so are there any mods it needs.

If you have a post available please link it and i can use there info

Thanks
Jeff
 
#6 · (Edited)
This is a direct fit for 01-10
07.5 10 GM Part :20756713 PUMP, Power Steering, PUMP,P/S(INCLUDES 1-11,13,14)

This is not a direct fit and to modify it’s a $5400 job
The 2011-2016 GM Part :84056869 PUMP, Power Steering PUMP,P/S(INCLUDES 2-8)
 
#5 ·
You may have to dremel out the rod's hole a little for the pedal attachment. I replaced mine with a 2011 and the info I found at the time said the same. And I did.

I'm sure I posted about it here before. About 2 to 4 years ago, iirc.
 
#8 · (Edited)
#12 ·
Pump and Hydroboost Installed on 2004.5 LLY

I was getting tired of leaving power steering fluid puddles everywhere I went. So I decided I would change the hoses. And then I thought, what the heck, if I'm doing that I might as well change/upgrade the power steering pump to the ACDelco 20756713. That went okay (had to buy a $25 pulley remover/installer, which is a MUST).

That's nice but just showed how much the hydrobooster was leaking. So I followed the advice here and got the ACDelco 178-0853 for the 2011 trucks. I read various reviews and some people had problems with the brake light switch. It looks to me like eyelet needs to have a little slop so that as you press the pedal, the end of the rod presses the switch, then the eyelet hits the pin. I elongated the eyelet hole (just a very little!) towards the hydroboost. It might not have been necessary, but it works.

I've only done a few test drives, but the brakes work like they've never worked before!!

I think the steering gear box leaks, too. :(

Thanks for the part numbers and upgrade recommendations!! :thankyou2
 
#13 ·
I was getting tired of leaving power steering fluid puddles everywhere I went. So I decided I would change the hoses. And then I thought, what the heck, if I'm doing that I might as well change/upgrade the power steering pump to the ACDelco 20756713. That went okay (had to buy a $25 pulley remover/installer, which is a MUST).

That's nice but just showed how much the hydrobooster was leaking. So I followed the advice here and got the ACDelco 178-0853 for the 2011 trucks. I read various reviews and some people had problems with the brake light switch. It looks to me like eyelet needs to have a little slop so that as you press the pedal, the end of the rod presses the switch, then the eyelet hits the pin. I elongated the eyelet hole (just a very little!) towards the hydroboost. It might not have been necessary, but it works.

I've only done a few test drives, but the brakes work like they've never worked before!!

I think the steering gear box leaks, too. :(

Thanks for the part numbers and upgrade recommendations!! :thankyou2
Cool. Let us know if the brakes keep being impressive. In my experience, that great touchy feel you get from flushing them, bleeding them and even changing parts lasts for but a little while. It soon returns to 'normal'.
 
#16 · (Edited)
I have a 2009. I'm looking at putting the 2011 hydra boost unit on my truck. Does the pedal option make a difference?
No, pedal option doesn’t make a difference. All 2009 take GM Part :20940395 BOOSTER, Replaced by:19371362
You just have to make modifications mentioned to work.
 
#18 · (Edited)
Most people that that have a leak put in the new Hydroboost Brake Booster since they have to change it anyways.
I doubt that the '11 LML HB will dramatically change your braking system.
A true worthy upgrade? Add a PS fluid cooler to the mix. You'll release the heat load on fluid and components, greatly extending their lifespan.
Flush your brake fluid annually, step up to DOT-4. (less water accumulation, higher boiling point)

Do this would achieve more, brake repair, the right way.
https://www.dieselplace.com/forum/7...ws/313310-gm-rear-brake-repair-right-way.html
This helps also. Power Steering/Hydro-Boost Flush
https://www.dieselplace.com/forum/7.../353950-power-steering-hydro-boost-flush.html
Hydroboost explanation
https://www.dieselplace.com/forum/6...5-2005-lly/434978-hydroboost-explanation.html
 
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#19 ·
Adding to what's been suggested....

I added a PS cooler when I changed out my HB to the newer year one. The newer HB was cheaper. That's the reason I bought it. The PS cooler was a suggested addition for a problem I didn't have. But, given I'm in the hot desert, it made sense even if there was no obvious need for it. I also added a filter at that time, but removed it shortly after install when I began to detect some issues with it.

Are a cooler and in-line filter needed? No. Could they be a "good" addition? Some have said so. I can't, but I don't tow or work this truck hard at all and I never steer sitting still. If I had it to do over again, I wouldn't have. YMMV. The OEM HB, on the other hand, appeared to leak and that's why I replaced that.

Flushing the HB helps the brakes become very responsive, but it doesn't last long. Flushing the brakes is a good idea. I'm still on 100% OEM brake parts. But I do only have 82,000 miles on a 13+ year old truck that has never seen road salt and very little atmospheric moisture.
 
#20 · (Edited)
As you can see a few posts ago, MP "challenged" me :D that I would get over loving the 2011 HB (my original one was leaking, too). As MP mentioned above, the 2011 HB is way cheaper!! After 3 months and 3000 miles, I'm still liking the braking improvement.

Performance, grade-wise, I would have given the 2004 OEM brakes a C+. Now I would give them a B+. (Longevity, at least for those of us who live in desert or semi-desert areas, is A+)

The biggest thing I notice is that I have always clicked on Tow-Haul when braking, especially with the camper in the bed, to help slow it down. I'm using it a lot less for that now.

Maybe my honeymoon will end in the future as the power steering fluid ages. I have gotten into the habit of sucking the PS reservoir and filling with fresh fluid at every oil change.
 
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#22 · (Edited)
lol :thumb:

I don't drive the ol' girl much. As such, after driving my 2012 Tacoma for days, I hopped into the LBZ and was impressed with the brakes. I had just spent a week worrying I had a brake issue. Turned out no. But when I got back in 'er, man, what great stopping and pedal response this big truck has. The brakes are definitely fitting for such a large towing machine.

I too use tow mode for "engine braking" on declines. I also downshift my gassers on declines. Never lost a tranny and brakes last way longer than my two-speed wife's cars with her "brake and gas" driving.

I like the PS fluid change you do at oil changes. Think I'll start that. Add brake fluid to that list too. And think I'll add brake caliper 'service' to my tire rotations. I only rotate them like once in 7 years so that's an easy one.
 
#24 ·
#25 ·
Are we allowed to mention Amazon? AMAZON!!
 
#26 ·
Dang it. Now says out of stock and they don't know when they'll have it again.
 
#29 ·
Installed the LMM Hydroboost upgrade (AC Delco 178-1036) on my LBZ along with the AC Delco power steering cooler. The Hydroboost rod hole diameter and length are the exact same size. It was plug and play. No need to drill out or add clearance to the hole. Did have a minor problem with the brake switch working intermittently. Rotating the clip, which attaches the brake pedal, switch and hydroboost fork, to a vertical position(long side up down) instead of horizontal allowed the pedal to travel the required distance to function normally. When the brake pedal is pushed, there is a slight bit of play which triggers the brake switch. If the clip is horizontal it interferes with the required travel and the truck will not shift out of park. Make sure the clip is in the correct position first and measure old and new with a precision caliber before looking at shims or changing the switch. The pedal needs the correct amount of play to work properly.

The power steering cooler is not plug and play. It needs lines to be adjusted for proper clearance and is a tight fit. A tube bender will make installation easier. Inner fender liner and boost tube must come out for installation.
 
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