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L5P Mild Lift, Wheels, Tires.. Questions

2K views 16 replies 4 participants last post by  Billman812 
#1 ·
I'd like to move to a 20" wheel and Toyo OC ATIIs in 275/65-20 on my '17 3500 DRW. I had settled on an American Eagle Wheel, Series 0597, in 20"x7.5", but they've been bought out now, and I don't believe that wheel is available anymore. If anyone knows that to be incorrect, please let me know.

Assuming that wheel is not available, I'm curious if anyone knows of a "clean" looking wheel like that, that's available in 20"x7.5". I know the American Eagle wheels are popular, but I'm not a fan of the bead-lock-wannabe look. I like clean, subtle, simple.

I'm also curious if anyone running that tire size can give me an accurate measurement outside-to-outside on the rear sidewalls. I've searched, but never found an accurate indication of how much they'll stick out from the rear fenders.
 
#2 ·
Ahhhh.. Disregard. I finally found the right place to search - found a Fuel wheel that fits the bill.
 
#3 ·
fwiw
I'm running 295/65-20 Nitto Ridge Grapler, on fuel with a +3 (?) offset on the outer and mine are about 3-3.5" outside the rear fender with no flare.
 
#4 ·
Thank you! That's the other piece of info I needed. If I recall correctly, the fenders measure 1/2" shy of 8'. That puts your outside-sidewall-to-outside-sidewall at 102". Is that correct?

I see you have a Cognito 4"-6". Do you know where you fell, ultimately, in that range? I was planning to run 275/65-20s, and thinking the 4" would be plenty. If I read their site correctly, the significant savings in the 4" is because it doesn't include the UCAs.

Also, if you have the time and can spare the effort, can you post or send a few pics? Specifically, I'm curious what it looks like from low/behind - the point of view of somebody in a car behind it, what that 3" stick-out looks like, and the full view of the truck from the side.

I hate to be so picky, but it's a lot of money, and a big leap of faith to make, given I drive 45,000+ miles every year.

Thanks again!
 
#6 ·
Hope this helps you & sorry their all sideways, rear is from about 10-12' in a catcher's stance
front for reference at full lock.
yes, 4-6 with UCA & full steering upgrades. I think it was set at 5" +/-
 

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#7 ·
Looks good, thanks.

A couple more questions..

Did you use the 1" block in the back, since you've got air bags to stay level?

Do the Fuel wheels leave enough gap between those 295s to allow some sidewall bulge when loaded, and keep the two tires apart?


Feel free to tell me to GTH.. If you have a chance, I'd love to see a side view of the entire truck, to get a feel for just how tall it really is. Even better, a picture AND a measurement to some reference point - ground to the top of the door handle, maybe..?


Thanks again!
 
#8 ·
Yes, I believe it was the 1" lift block on the back for level when unloaded.
The outer wheel is +3" I want to say and plenty of room between sidewalls.


No problem & Will post more pics later
 
#9 ·
Ground to: center of front fender opening 46" , center of rear fender 44" , bed rail at back of cab is 58.5".
side view and from front to see tire exposure
 

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#10 · (Edited)
That looks great! Thank you!

I'll tell the Cognito folks to send you the sales commission.
 
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#11 ·
I'm running the 275/65R20 now on 8.25 wide wheels, 2 1/2" front level with 2" blocks in the rear with bags. How far they stick out in the rear depends on the rear offsets.
 

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#12 ·
How far they stick out in the rear depends on the rear offsets.
Of course it does, yet you didn't provide EITHER of those figures for yours.

It really doesn't matter, though. I've fallen prey to Billman's evil influence, and decided to go 4"+, and run 295/65-20s.
 
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#13 · (Edited)
I've been waiting through one more OCI, to confirm all's well with the OA report before I pull the trigger on this...but that's given me enough time that now I'm second-guessing the plan..

I've got 255/80-17s on the stock wheels now, and I don't rotate them. With a coupla swaps of the front tires side-to-side, the truck goes through a set of fronts about every 35-40k. I'm ok with that, but I'm curious if those 295s are going to behave the same way, particularly given the rears are apparently not going to be balanced.

If you've been through several generations worth of tires on aftermarket rear dually wheels that make balancing impractical or impossible, please chime in and tell me what your experience is with respect to tire wear/mileage, and whether, as I've been told, the two un-balanced rears tend to "balance each other out," and ride as smoothly as the stock ones that were balanced.
 
#14 ·
With 15k miles, mine do need a rotate but can't figure out if I want to spend the money to dismount & mount or just replace em 2 at a time as needed.
good luck
 
#15 ·
I'd be curious what you decide, and if you decide to rotate, how that works out. I know there are a dozen different theories on what the best routine is, but I've settled on just not rotating, as you suggest, replacing the two fronts as needed, and replacing full sets of four rears as a group, as well.

One reason I'm even more convinced this is the way to go with aftermarket wheels, is.. As much as I drive, if I were to do true full rotations at (again, as you suggest) 15,000 mile intervals, I'd be doing that every 3-4 months. I could go into a long dissertation of my reasons for choosing the no-rotation plan, but that's another discussion. Aside from those other reasons, I'd be concerned about the inevitable damage to the swanky rim$, due to excessive "handling."
 
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#16 · (Edited)
I'd still like to know how your rotation, tire wear, routine works out, Billman.. what kind of mileage you get out of the tires, etc. I've had to put this plan on the back burner for the time being (and potentially for quite a while) for home-building, property improvement financing reasons.
 
#17 ·
I will keep you posted, haven't been driving much so it kind of slipped to the back of my to do list also.
 
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