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Old 01-31-2010, 06:52 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Power Steering/Hydro-Boost Flush

Today, I serviced the PS/HB system with a flush; I took some pictures and thought I’d share my procedure I do regularly to prolong the life of the PS and HB units and keep them functioning properly.

ITEMS NEEDED:

Drain pan
Large channel-lock pliers
5-6’ of 5/16” Fuel Line Hose (3/8" will work also, it's just what I had on hand. Clear hose to view fluid is another choice.)
Scrap piece of 1x6
Small funnel
2-3 quarts p/s fluid, Just buy a Gallon Jug, it's cheaper.

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I'm currently using Royal Purple synthetic, but plain PS fluid is fine. I pull heavy in bad traffic and experience higher heat levels than the average user. I've experimented with few different syn ATF with mixed results. None proved superior, some were actually detrimental to performance. Looking for a synthetic PS fluid has proven to be an elusive endeavor. At this time of edit, only RP and AmsOil offer syn ps fluid. Again, regular PS fluid is fine to use.


Here we have the culprit at hand,


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CAUTION: in the picture below, you’ll see the curved metal brace coming from the cowl. I STRONGLY recommend you place a rag, towel, blanket, or some kind of cushion in this area.

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When giving the final pull on the LP return hose, the release/recoil will have the underside of your wrist striking this, with potential gashes and blood spilled on your truck, resulting in you cussing me later. GrrRRrr I pull mine regularly and it comes off much easier than one that's been on for 70-80k miles.

(Edited with input from DF member fflmlf)
Open the PS reservoir cap to relieve any excess pressure BEFORE pulling the return line hose shown below.

Compressing the spring clamp,

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turn the hose left and right to break the seal, then pull back off the nipple.

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There will be a slight leak of fluid from the hose end when removed, so have a rag or paper towel in hand to catch and not make a mess.

The curved end of the hose (with rag/towel over end) will hook over where the Hydro-Boost unit meets the Master Cylinder, it'll be out of your way and not leak more fluid out.


Re-using the OEM spring clamp, I secure the drain hose at the HB unit

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and lay the board down to hold the hose in place with the drain pan in site from the Driver’s seat.

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With the engine running and in Park, SLOWLY depress the brake pedal till it feels firm at the bottom and hold, turn the steering wheel from 12-3 o’clock and hold, release the pedal SLOWLY to the top, then bring the wheel back to 12 o’clock. Look down and you'll see the flow and then you can adjust your speed of press and release actions so as not to spray fluid out of the drain pan. It may take 2-3 times before you see the fluid start to flow.

Here we see the old, burnt, and dirty fluid beginning to flow.

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.....................Continued on the next post, I'm too picture happy to conform here.

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Last edited by Diaric; 04-18-2014 at 11:47 PM. Reason: update, fix images
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Old 01-31-2010, 06:54 PM   #2 (permalink)
HooKMHornS
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Part 2

Continue the same procedure alternately turning from 9 to 12 to 3 o’clock until you start to feel/hear the steering bind a bit, usually 4-6 pedal cycles, then turn off the engine.



Grab your funnel and refill to the bottom of the neck of the PS reservoir.







Hold up the funnel so you can see the fluid level coming up and not pour fluid all over, usually about a third of a quart at a time.







Climb back in, start ‘er up, and get after it again, repeating over and over till you see the fluid start to run clear. I know it is tempting to do but, PLEASE!, don’t leave it running while you refill the PS reservoir, the danger is too great to have your Left Arm get caught and have it get D-MAXED.



Here, we see the fluid is now running clean.







Leave the drain hose connected, check the fluid level in the pump, and fill accordingly to the Cold Line. It you over fill it, just pump the pedal a few times to drain.



Remove the drain hose, wipe the nipple clean of residual fluid, and replace the Return Line using the Spring Clip.







Start ‘er up, roll forward turning the wheel and feel the new ‘Creamy Cool Whip’ resistance in your steering, and yer ‘Good to Go’.



Consider also:

Your HB unit works in conjunction with your Brake system. Brake fluid is like a magnet for water/moisture and should be flushed annually to aid in longevity to your brake system components AND to keep the fluid's boiling point up to spec.



https://www.dieselplace.com/forum/71-...uid-flush.html



Also:

For as little as $35-ish, you can easily add a Power Steering Fluid Cooler to your HD.

https://www.dieselplace.com/forum/71-...id-cooler.html

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Use-ta Haves 2005-LLY 3500 LS DRW Crew Cab, 2002-LB7 3500 LS DRW Crew Cab, 2006 6.0L 3500WT Xcab flatbed
I Live my life in such a way that when my feet hit the floor in the morning...Satan shudders & says "Oh sh*t, he's awake!"

Last edited by Diaric; 11-29-2014 at 02:28 PM. Reason: pic links
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Old 01-31-2010, 07:46 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Nice write up! I'll have to do this...
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Old 01-31-2010, 08:13 PM   #4 (permalink)
HooKMHornS
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Much cheaper than $400 for a Hydro-Boost unit.
Easy and simple to do.
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Use-ta Haves 2005-LLY 3500 LS DRW Crew Cab, 2002-LB7 3500 LS DRW Crew Cab, 2006 6.0L 3500WT Xcab flatbed
I Live my life in such a way that when my feet hit the floor in the morning...Satan shudders & says "Oh sh*t, he's awake!"
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Old 01-31-2010, 11:04 PM   #5 (permalink)
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So no problems using Dexron VI? I would like to use a synthetic and if it won't cause any problems, I would like to use it. I know you can do stuff like that in old trucks, but this isn't an 80's F250 here.
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Old 01-31-2010, 11:43 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Valvoline was offering a synthetic PS fluid, but they discontinued it. There is an AmsOil product, and the Purple is available over the counter, but I find them cost prohibitive.

I’ve been using Valvoline ‘Full Synthetic’ Dex-VI (we keep it in bulk for our Allison maintenance) without any problems. I’m running in the extreme (33k gcw), normal PS fluid is still good for normal use.
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Old 02-01-2010, 12:27 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Awesome write-up and thanks for all the photos. I always wondered how to do this without making a big mess. Thank you again for taking the time to do this.
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Old 02-02-2010, 06:23 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Thanks for the write up -agree it is pretty easy thing to do that most forget about until the steering or brakes don't act right....

I have been using Redline Synthetic P/S fluid about 8.50 a quart at my local Car Quest parts store.
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Old 02-02-2010, 07:25 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Thanks! I'll lookup Car Quest around here....see if they're still in business.




Another item overlooked is the brake fluid. After just 18-24 months, on average, there’s enough water contamination to lower the boiling point by as much as 200*.

Add to that, many people will replace the linings and never address the trashed fluid or the sediment formed in the Master Cylinder. Then they'll wonder, "why is the pedal soft, I know I bled the brakes?"
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Old 02-10-2010, 07:26 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Thanks for the write up last time I pupmped it out I like your way much bettter.

I used AMsoil synthethic power steering only cost $4.80 didn't think it was too pricey. Last time I used AMS synthetic transmission fluid for 75,000 worked fine

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Hydro Boost leak? - Page 2 - Duramax Diesels Forum This thread Refback 09-02-2013 03:52 PM
Question: Power steeting flush - Duramax Diesels Forum This thread Refback 08-30-2013 11:46 PM
Any suggestions for synthetic power steering fluid? This thread Refback 08-30-2013 02:39 PM

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