Detailed water pump replacement with pictures - Diesel Place : Chevrolet and GMC Diesel Truck Forums
 
Home Forum Market Place Garage Tuning Library DTC Tool Register Vendors
Go Back   Diesel Place : Chevrolet and GMC Diesel Truck Forums > The Information Place > Do It Yourself, Useful Articles, & Product Reviews
Register FAQ Forum Rules My Replies My Threads Mark Forums Read Advertise


Do It Yourself, Useful Articles, & Product Reviews Detailed articles containing procedures, steps, & images to aid the do-it-yourselfer plus product reviews.

DieselPlace.com is the premier Duramax Diesel Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Like Tree9Likes

 
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
Old 01-21-2010, 08:35 PM   #1 (permalink)
flagstaff
Diesel Starter
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 176
iTrader Score: 0 reviews

Detailed water pump replacement with pictures

Thanks to the writeup by TheBak, found here:
https://www.dieselplace.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=214076
I had a good idea of what I needed to complete the job. Armed with TheBac's directions, I undertook the job, taking pictures as I went, and making occasional changes.

Here is the TCM. I didn't unplug it. I just let it lay off to the side.




There are four 10mm bolts holding the top of the fan shroud, the two on the driver's side hold the TCM. There are also four plastic push fasteners that connect the top of the shroud to the bottom. I replaced mine with the pictured philips-head fasteners.


Getting the factory ones out is a pain without a special tool. I find it easier to just replace the factory ones with something like this.




Here is the big nut that holds the fan to the pulley. I made a wedge with some rubber material for a good grip. Using a large adjustable wrench, it came off easily.


You can also use a hammer and chisel in place of the air hammer suggested by TheBac. You might use this before the wedge just to loosen things up.


The fan is off.




Here is the fan pulley, front and back.




This connector goes through the hole on the fan pulley. It needs to be removed before you remove the fan pulley.


This tool combination is well worth the money. Since you need the 12 point socket anyway, it isn't much more for this kit with the socket and locking tool. Using this tool means the starter remains untouched. The part with the screw is for 4500 and 5500 trucks. The cost was about $43.00 shipped. I will be happy to send anyone this tool so they can use it. Contact me with a PM for details.


Here is a link to the tool.
http://www.tooltopia.com/lisle-22100.aspx

To insert the tool you remove this inspection plate on the front of the transmission near the transmission filter. It just bends in the middle and pops out.




Here is the opening. The locking tool just slides in.






Now it was time to go after the bolt holding the balancer. I had a choice of tools. I went with the torque wrench...a really BIG torque wrench. My size 11 flip flop gives you an idea of the actual size: 40 inches! I borrowed this from a friend.


Even with this manly tool, I needed to sit on top of the engine, brace my feet on the the inside of the engine compartment and pull REALLY HARD. I had set the torque wrench to 300 ft/lbs to get an idea of how tight the bolt was. It clicked at 300 with no results, and needed an estimated 400 ft/lbs to break it loose. Here is the harmonic balancer. It slid right off. Note that it has a notch that aligns with the pin in the following picture.




Here is the nut that requires the removal of the balancer.


If you are unfortunate enough to have hoses like mine, get ready for some real PITA work. My stock hoses, which I had decided to replace, had the spring clamps molded onto the hoses. This means that when you finally get the very strong hose clamps squeezed with pliers, you still can't get the hose off. After I felt the molded part, I was able to cut it off and remove the clamp. When you cut off the molded part, cut it level with the hose or you'll struggle to get the clamp out of the molded area. Since I was replacing my hoses, I'd cut them off near the clamp to make the job easier. Hose clamp pliers are really helpful with this job. I could not find a set at any of the four parts stores I tried. Here is a link to a set:
http://www.tooltopia.com/lisle-17100.aspx


Time to remove the pump housing. You start with the two bolts on the top of the house. They hold the flange that attaches the pipe that goes to the thermostat housing.


The short section of 3/8 inch hose looked like it needed to be replaced, and it was.


Time to remove the two nuts that connect to the pipe that goes to the oil cooler. The one on the engine-side (the red arrow) is easily accessed from under the front of the truck. The fender-side one (the blue arrow) can be accessed from the left front wheel well after you remove the wheel. You don't need to remove the fender liner.




You'll need a 12mm universal socket or a 12mm socket with a universal coupler. There is not enough room for a deepwell socket. 20'' of extensions was just right.


You can now remove the bolts and nut that hold the pump. It will take some manuevering to get it out. Be careful of o-ring that seals the pipe to the thermostat housing on the top of the pump. This o-ring did not come with my new pump so I re-used it. If you're not careful, it could get nicked.


My housing had the typical pitting caused by electrolosis.


My old pump had been leaking a small amount for a while. Initially you could just smell it, but eventually it leaked enough to leave some Dexcool on the ground. The old one had a rubber squeak when turned indicating the seal was failing.


My replacement pump came with an o-ring to seal the housing to the motor, but no o-ring for the pump to the housing. I reused my old one since it was in good condition. I also had to buy the gasket for the pump to the oil cooler pipe. That one did not come with the pump.

Re-assembly is straight forward, but getting the pump into place takes some work. Just go slow and be sure the o-ring on the pump housing stays in place. (Put the o-ring on the pump housing, not on the engine.) Before you start to wiggle the pump into place, be sure to slide the shorter bolt into hole since once the pump is in place the tube to the thermostat will be in the way.

A large adjustable wrench is used to tighten the fan to the pulley.


Time to put everything back together. The lower half of the fan shroud may have slipped out of place. Note how the two pictures differ. The first one shows the shroud seated correctly, while the other shows the shround out of the notch.




By far the hardest part of this job was removing the old hoses. The lower hose where it connects to the radiator was a real pain. Access is limited and the molded-in clamp was a challenge. I eventually cut the hose off and had to use a die-grinder to cut the clamp.


In case you were wondering, this is why the 36mm socket for the balancer has to be a 12 point.


Finally, don't forget to remove the locking tool and re-install the inspection door.


Offline  
Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 01-21-2010, 10:16 PM   #2 (permalink)
TheBac
Bac To The Future
 
TheBac's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Mid-Michigan
Posts: 23,034
iTrader Score: 3 reviews

That Lisle tool set was the best thing to happen to Duramax waterpump replacement, period.

Thanks for the pictures and the shout out. I really should rewrite that DIY to include everyone else's recommendations and add pics.

__________________
Tom

"BBT" -- 2003 GMC 2500HD CC/SB 4x4 - 12.14 @ 111.15
"Kleshay" -- 2000 C5 Corvette -- the toy
"The Cruzer" -- 2014 Chevy Cruze Diesel -- the DD

Marlene (Molly) Bacon -- 1936 - 2019 -- RIP Mom
You're missed both at home and on the piano

Success is getting what you want. Happiness is wanting what you get.
Reality is a matter of perspective.

Offline   Quick reply to this message
Old 01-21-2010, 10:25 PM   #3 (permalink)
neilltz
Diesel Head
 
neilltz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Hoosier State
Posts: 568
iTrader Score: 0 reviews

Outstanding!!! This is what the site is all about...in large part. Where did you get your pump and how much was it? And I can really see what folks are talking about with that pin deal on the balancer. That really should have been keyway'd from GM. Did you replace the small hose in the background?
And finally (whew!) what value did you retorque the balancer too?
__________________
2002 HD2500 4x4
LT, Ext Cab, Short Bed
LB7, Allison Auto, Stock

1991.5 Dodge D250 LE
Reg Cab Long Bed 2WD
Cummins, 4spd 46RE Auto

Last edited by neilltz; 01-21-2010 at 10:27 PM.
Offline   Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 01-21-2010, 10:35 PM   #4 (permalink)
KEVINL
Diesel Veteran
 
KEVINL's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 5,274
iTrader Score: 0 reviews

That tool is cool its a ton cheaper than the J moore tool and you don't have to mess with the starter
Offline   Quick reply to this message
Old 01-21-2010, 10:55 PM   #5 (permalink)
duramaxxin
Diesel Head
 
duramaxxin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: murrieta ca
Posts: 681
iTrader Score: 0 reviews

SoCal Diesel Trucks Member

Awesome!!! Only if I had this a few months ago
__________________
2004 2500 LB7 Tuned by EFI Live DSP-5, Mike L. stage III, Levaled out with all cognito goodies, 20in BMF novakanes
Offline   Quick reply to this message
Old 01-22-2010, 03:11 AM   #6 (permalink)
tehbald
Diesel Apprentice
 
tehbald's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: St. louis, Mo
Posts: 386
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
Send a message via Yahoo to tehbald

Midwest Smokers Member

i am so glad you wrote this up. i just got the tool kit in my shop today and was kinda unsure about trying it but i feel a lot better now. now i guess i'll have to order my pump and do the job. one question still on my mind though...with it all torn down is it a good idea to put a fluid dampener on it or if your not running much power, just put the stock back on?
__________________
03 GMC 2500HD, 4x4, Crew Cab, Short Box, Pickup w/Duramax LB7, 265/75 R16 - 8 fresh injectors (thank you warranty), curse of pump rub found and fixed with the kennedy adapter, banks ram air, monster duals, waste gate actuator, and economind tuner, SPORT'N TRUCK NUTZ

06 Chevy 2500HD, 4x4, Crew Cab, Short Box, LLY (LBZ), 265/75 r16,- K&N Drop In, FlowPro 4" duals, PPE Standard tuner, PPE High Flow fuel inlet, FASS 150 Lift Pump.

Work Truck:
13 Ram 3500 Cummins, stock

05 Chevy C6500 Dump Truck- 7.2 CAT, Allison, Agricultural Diesel Solutions "TRUCK EDITION" box
Offline   Quick reply to this message
Old 01-22-2010, 05:16 AM   #7 (permalink)
flagstaff
Diesel Starter
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 176
iTrader Score: 0 reviews

Quote:
Originally Posted by neilltz View Post
Outstanding!!! This is what the site is all about...in large part. Where did you get your pump and how much was it? And I can really see what folks are talking about with that pin deal on the balancer. That really should have been keyway'd from GM. Did you replace the small hose in the background?
And finally (whew!) what value did you retorque the balancer too?

I got the pump at RockAuto. Very good prices and quick shipping.

http://http://www.rockauto.com/catal...amecatalog.php

I did replace the small hose. I heated it in a pan of boiling water prior to installation to make it easier to slip on. A little spit into the hose and working quickly got it on fairly easily.

I torqued it to 275 ft/lbs.

A few other points I thought of:

- Draining my Dexcool was made easier because I was replacing my hoses. I just cut a hole in the lower radiator hose.

- Check the locking tool to be sure it is seated properly before you re-install and torque the bolt. I didn't and it was cocked a little bit from removing the bolt.

- I removed the locking tool when I still had the torque wrench on the bolt. This way you can reverse the engine slightly should the tool be stuck from the torqueing. I didn't have to reverse the engine, but the locking tool was a bit stuck. I just tapped on it and it came out.

- The nuts on the pipe to the oil cooler (see the picture with the red and blue arrows) can be easily removed and started from under the front of the truck. You only need to use the long extensions and universal to break the outter (blue arrow) nut loose and snug it up.
Offline   Quick reply to this message
Old 01-22-2010, 05:19 AM   #8 (permalink)
flagstaff
Diesel Starter
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 176
iTrader Score: 0 reviews

Quote:
Originally Posted by tehbald View Post
i am so glad you wrote this up. i just got the tool kit in my shop today and was kinda unsure about trying it but i feel a lot better now. now i guess i'll have to order my pump and do the job. one question still on my mind though...with it all torn down is it a good idea to put a fluid dampener on it or if your not running much power, just put the stock back on?
I'm all stock, so I'll defer this question to those with experience in this area.
Offline   Quick reply to this message
Old 01-22-2010, 06:22 AM   #9 (permalink)
Duramaxdave
Diesel Apprentice
 
Duramaxdave's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 453
iTrader Score: 1 reviews

Nice write up, Thanks Flagstaff
__________________
2012 Chevy, 3500HD, DA, CC, LWB, LTZ, SUMMIT WHITE, 4x4

Sold - 2005 2500HD LWB LT D/A CC 4x4 SUMMIT WHITE


Offline   Quick reply to this message
Old 01-22-2010, 07:05 AM   #10 (permalink)
LETHAL WEAPON
Diesel Prodigy
 
LETHAL WEAPON's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Temple Hills Md
Posts: 4,181
iTrader Score: 1 reviews

DelMarVa Diesel Club Member

WTF.........could GM made it any harder too replace a water pump, never heard of removing a harmonic balancer to get to water pump.....i guess they figure the average D.I.Y. guy is not going to do a water pump themselves, I can remember how easy it is to replace a water pump on a S/B or B/B chevy i guess thats the difference between a gasser and a diesel

__________________
Cool *** Diesel Dave
2008 3500 HD DUALLY 4WD SLE 420 HP/855TQ 6.6 LMM D-MAX,
4inch Turbo back straight pipe into 7 stacks,
Modified Allison 6 speed done by suncoast,
EFI LIVE with Danville performance Tow tune & ,DPF,DOC,EGR delete Best MPG is 21.3 PVC re-route
Filtration F.A.S.S. w/Donaldson P551313
Niketane filter head w/ Donaldson P553207 w/ site bowl
Wheels 22.5 ALCOA's wraped in Goodyear 255/70/22.5 and spun by 4.56 gears,Window Tint 5% on all windows Gauges... Boost,Fuel PSI,Differential, Air Pressure, Oil temp &EGT and EDGE CTS monitor,2 sets of shocker XL train horns, Fleece performance Tuff shafts(NO MORE PASSENGER SIDE DISCONNECT SLEEVE TO BREAK OR FRONT ACTUATOR NOT TO WORK) Front driveshaft will spin while in 2wd, MAG-HYTEC differential cover , Alligator Performance tranny lines, Coolant filtration kit, Krytonite UCA,Tie rods, Centerlink and Idler support kit, Merchant Automotive motor mounts....."ARB air locker install


INDIVIDUALITY....You laugh at me because I'm different....I laugh at you because yall LOOK all the same
Offline   Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
 

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Diesel Place : Chevrolet and GMC Diesel Truck Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

PLEASE READ! You must check your email inbox for the confirmation link to complete registration. Please check your spam box if you do not see the email in your inbox.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:
Insurance
Please select your insurance company (Optional)

Log-in


Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
water pump replacement buffblazer Duramax Second Generation: 2004.5-2005 (LLY) 7 03-08-2011 10:35 PM
My water pump replacement with pics of pump rub, havent started the truck yet shawn macananny Duramax First Generation: 2001-2004 (LB7) 3 01-17-2010 06:06 AM
94 Sub water pump replacement vwhitley 6.5L Diesel Engine 3 03-31-2009 08:35 AM
Water pump replacement twil93 Duramax Second Generation: 2004.5-2005 (LLY) 19 11-13-2008 02:43 PM
Water pump replacement crash457 Duramax First Generation: 2001-2004 (LB7) 2 08-30-2007 08:09 PM


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 01:47 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
SEO by vBSEO 3.6.1
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2019 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Shoutbox provided by vBShout v6.2.1 (Lite) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2019 DragonByte Technologies Ltd. Runs best on HiVelocity Hosting.
© AutoGuide