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Old 10-25-2003, 08:14 PM   #1 (permalink)
dmaxalliTech
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Duramax Fuel Filter Change

I have promised this for a while, thanks for your patience..





Gather up some tools, a filter wrench, I use the style shown, its handle will pivot also. A pair of pliers, a good screwdriver and of course, a filter.





As you can see, I didnt remove anything, the battery is still in place, the picture is over the fender, not through the wheel well. Also the turbo intercooler pipe is in place.





I do move the A/C line slightly, grasp it as shown and push it towards the firewall about 1/2-3/4" not too far, you dont want to kink it at the bend.





Disconnect the two electrical connections, they are attatched to the valve cover with a flexible metal support, the top connector is the WIF sensor and the bottom one is the fuel heater.






Here is the filter wrench ready to do some work, notice the way its positioned. You will move the wrench to the left in this view to loosen the filter, The pivoting handle allows you to clear obstructions, in this case, the battery.





Once you break it loose with the wrench, spin it out, I use my right hand to do this. I found that a step stool will help get the angle right to make it easier. Remember, spin it clockwise to remove as shown.





The filter will come out here. Thats the reason for "adjusting" the a/c line. Notice that my filter is full of fuel right to the top. This is due to the lift pump I am running. A stock fuel system will leave the fuel level in the filter about 1.5" below the top. This is why I didnt mention draining the filter first



Here is the old filter on the left and the new one on the right. Notice the two new o-rings that come with all replacement elements



Use your filter wrench to hold the filter and a pair of pliers to remove the WIF sensor, once you unseat the oring it will unscrew easily.



Here is the WIF sensor removed and the old o-ring. Discard the o-ring a its not needed again. The filter will come with a replacement.



The WIF sensor with the new o-ring ready to go into the new filter.



Here is the new filter ready to be installed. I dont use any grease or lubricant on the large o-ring as I find it causes it to move around alot on the filter, press it into the groove dry and it will stay better. I use just a dab of vasoline on the internal seal to help assemble it. When installing the filter to the filter head, center it up and press up on the filter to seat the center seal.. this will help it screw on easier.



This is the primer pump on the top of the filter head.



The screwdriver is on the bleeder screw. Notice mine is the S/S version that is available aftermarket, the oem is black and made of plastic with a hex on the outside that your 13mm socket will fit nicely. Notice the size of the screwdriver, a common mistake is to use one that is too small and damage the bleeder screw.



To bleed, loosen the bleeder screw some and then prime using the primer pump. Just push it in and let it release then push again, continue until you get fuel from the bleeder screw. Once you get fuel from the bleeder, tighten the screw and pump about 15 more times or until the primer becomes noticably harder to push.. Reconnect your electrical connections that you unhooked earlier. Clean up any spilled fuel from the head or frame rail. Start the truck and it should start and stay running. If it dies after a few seconds, you may have air still. Repeat the bleeding process. Check for leaks and your done!



I like to cut my filters open and I use a exhaust cutter to do it. This particular one is from MAC tools but anything comparable will do.



Here is the cutter ready to go to work



Here is the element from my truck, about 6k miles on this one.



Just for comparrison, this filter was 20k old and never used an additive. Its well used up. Below is a pic of the same filter inside the can, notice the rust build up.





Well, thats the way I change these filters. I think I had a total of 15 minutes invested in the whole job and was only slowed down because of trying to get good pics. I hope that this will help all of you tackle this routine maintenance with confidence.

Eric



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Last edited by dmaxalliTech; 12-05-2004 at 05:20 PM.
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Old 10-25-2003, 08:22 PM   #2 (permalink)
Mr X
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Thanks a lot Eric.

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Old 10-25-2003, 08:44 PM   #3 (permalink)
Fish2Max
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An excellent piece of instructional work. Your first chapter for us Duramx Tips for Dummies.
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Old 10-25-2003, 08:48 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Thanks Eric! I have been planning to change my filter on my 03. Only 7000 mi but after recent reading better early than later! I wasn't sure which way was best to get to the filter, now I know. Good pictures make any job alot easier.


Mike
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Old 10-25-2003, 08:48 PM   #5 (permalink)
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The trick with the A/C line, is it left permanently pushed toward the firewall or does it come back to it's original position?
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Old 10-25-2003, 08:54 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Good Job





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Old 10-25-2003, 08:56 PM   #7 (permalink)
dmaxalliTech
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OC_DMAX
The trick with the A/C line, is it left permanently pushed toward the firewall or does it come back to it's original position?
I leave it there. That way you only have to move it once, I doubt anyone will even notice it being moved so I wouldnt worry bout that.


Eric
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Old 10-25-2003, 09:27 PM   #8 (permalink)
RanaExcavating1
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Eric


Which lift pump did you install. And are you using a pressure regulator?


Rana
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Old 10-25-2003, 09:37 PM   #9 (permalink)
smartfix
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hello Eric

YOU beet me to the Change out.. We do the same.. But we move the blue trubo line to the right and the rest is easy..
Just get a new Cam tonight 6.2 SLR Dig Cannon.. Have to find other pic's to take <smile>

From steve
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Old 10-25-2003, 10:06 PM   #10 (permalink)
Ray403Dmax
 
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Eric,


Thanks for both the lesson and photos. How do you attribute not having any diesel fuel spillage? Is there one step that ensures it as I recall most of us have some spillage.


Thanks!




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