146,000 head gasket, injector, head bolts, cups, downpipe, intake horn? - Diesel Place : Chevrolet and GMC Diesel Truck Forums
 
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Duramax First Generation: 2001-2004 (LB7) Discuss the first generation (2001-2004 LB7) of the 6.6L Duramax diesel engine & associated components. Engine related discussion ONLY.

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Old 06-16-2019, 09:14 PM   #1 (permalink)
Stryker100
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146,000 head gasket, injector, head bolts, cups, downpipe, intake horn?

So like the title says. Hard upper hose and pissing coolant out the cap when towing. Truck is running better and smoother than ever. Balance rates are good. But its time anyways. I'm thinking new stock bosch injectors and arp studs. Dealer head gaskets. Thinking new bosch cups just because I can. I was thinking WEHRLI horn. Not sure on downpipe. I see some are open on the turbo side and some have a shallow cut out. Should I use arp bolts on anything else? Also can the heads be pulled with injectors and manifolds on them? Seems like working on all that would be better on a bench. And whats a good injector lines? Anything else under all that mess that would be the time to change out as well. budget is 5,500 and would love to keep it under that. But want to do this right. Also anything a DYI guys should know about. I've done the waterpump and the drovers exhaust manifold. And a head job on some old school Datsuns. I can also get the print out of the teardown from a local shop. Not sure what the thing is called. But its step by step and has all tools and torque needed. I just want the truck to run well and tow My 10,000lb RV in the weekends. So not need for bigger injectors or anything like that. Thank for any help and info.

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2004 GMC Sierra LB7, Truck is stock other then a few new replacement parts that are OEM Or better quality. Truck has 140,000 Miles as of 2/2017
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Old 06-23-2019, 02:01 AM   #2 (permalink)
Stryker100
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K, Well I see no one knows about any of these part on here. I thought i seen bosch cups but i found GM ones for 250 or so a set. I emailed Lincoln diesel and duramax stores. I hope one gets back to Me. Seem like there the only people on the net that dont charge a core on new parts.

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2004 GMC Sierra LB7, Truck is stock other then a few new replacement parts that are OEM Or better quality. Truck has 140,000 Miles as of 2/2017
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Old 06-26-2019, 11:30 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Just the arp head studs will be fine.I see no reason why you can’t pull the head with the manifold in place but watch out for your injector tips.You don’t want to damage them.I bought a new Bosch injector kit with hard lines included on eBay for around the $3 grand mark Canadian dollars just last year.Absolutely no issues.Also included new gaskets and banjo bolts for the return lines.New cups are a good investment as well along with some high temperature red loctite on the taper of the new cups before you install them into each bore.Hope this helps.
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1996 GMC Sierra ext.cab Z71....with new genuine GM 6.2 660 short block,4L80E/6.5TD cylinder heads,DS4 5521S,82' 6.2 rocker arms,acdelco TP1069/Racor 20S fuel filters,4" diamond eye exhaust,3.73 G80 locker,stanadyne 37818 injectors

1996 Chevy K1500 Z71.....with '99 6.5 506 goodwrench van engine,88-93 6.2 diesel Napa y-pipe,'87 700R4,acdelco TP630F/Racor 20S fuel filters,Bosch non-turbo injectors,stanadyne blue tag 5088

1993 Chevy K1500 Z71...with 97' 6.5 TD 506 block,82' 6.2 rocker arms,stanadyne 37818 injectors,stanadyne blue tag 4911,DSG girdle,reman 700R4,Banks boost/pyrometer gauges,acdelco TP1069/TP943 fuel filter system,4 diamond eye exhaust/2 piece crossover

2008 Mercedes Benz E320 3.0 V6 turbo diesel

2013 Volkswagen Passat 2.0 TDI

Last edited by dieselolds; 06-26-2019 at 11:33 AM.
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Old 06-26-2019, 07:26 PM   #4 (permalink)
Stryker100
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Hey there is life on the forum. LOL I didnt hear back from the vendor from Here so I shopped a few of His competitor. I grabbed new bosch injectors and lines from one. Down piped and up pipes and horn from another. Head bolts and GM cups from another. And gaskets and a few odd things from another. Not sure of PPE pipes come with gaskets or not. I will have to wait and see what comes. I'm pricing that and some other bolts and stuff now. So how did you get the cups out and how did you clean the locktight out of the head? And what method did you opt for to put them back on? How did you heads check out, Did you have them surfaced?
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Old 06-26-2019, 08:17 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I did the work on a 02 rust free LB7 but I didn’t have the heads off.Just pulled the injectors and bought a cup puller from dieselcare for pretty cheap.They also sell the installation tool for the cup.Its a package deal for $175 I think last I checked.When you take the cups out there’s little to no residue left from the loctite.I sprayed a rag with brake cleaner and stuck it in the hole and rotated it around with a screwdriver to clean the taper in the cylinder head with the cup out.Then apply Your loctite to the new cup taper and gently seat it in place with your hand until it’s down to the oil ring area.Lubricate the o-rings with vasoline before you seat the cup down fully.The problem with the truck I worked on was that it was leaking fuel into the engine oil so the owner bought all new injectors,gaskets,cups,banjo bolts and after that not a single issue.I find it’s best to install one new cup and then install your new injector and bolt it down right away and move to the next one and do the same thing so the loctite can seal against the taper right away and cure overnight before you start it up.

Also don’t forget to drain the cooling system before you start pulling cups.You don’t want coolant to get on top of each piston.If you take off the bottom water pump hose and let the block drain that way you’ll be good to go and then you can take your cups out.I’m just mentioning this just in case this is your first time.
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1996 GMC Sierra ext.cab Z71....with new genuine GM 6.2 660 short block,4L80E/6.5TD cylinder heads,DS4 5521S,82' 6.2 rocker arms,acdelco TP1069/Racor 20S fuel filters,4" diamond eye exhaust,3.73 G80 locker,stanadyne 37818 injectors

1996 Chevy K1500 Z71.....with '99 6.5 506 goodwrench van engine,88-93 6.2 diesel Napa y-pipe,'87 700R4,acdelco TP630F/Racor 20S fuel filters,Bosch non-turbo injectors,stanadyne blue tag 5088

1993 Chevy K1500 Z71...with 97' 6.5 TD 506 block,82' 6.2 rocker arms,stanadyne 37818 injectors,stanadyne blue tag 4911,DSG girdle,reman 700R4,Banks boost/pyrometer gauges,acdelco TP1069/TP943 fuel filter system,4 diamond eye exhaust/2 piece crossover

2008 Mercedes Benz E320 3.0 V6 turbo diesel

2013 Volkswagen Passat 2.0 TDI

Last edited by dieselolds; 06-26-2019 at 08:19 PM.
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Old 06-26-2019, 10:24 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Thanks for the info. I read and seen pics of people using wire brushed on drills on this page. I about fell over that no one said dont do that. I'm building coolant pressure but not exhaust gases in the coolant. I build fuel twices last winter and was thinking fuel filter froze. Seems like when I change it. Its good for a few winter months and then it did it again. I changed it in may again and no fuel building so far. I'm doing the head gaskets just incase the pressure is from that. There no good anyways on an 2004 vin 1. I will change all the cups as it just makes sense. I was planning on installing one injector right after the lock tight. Anything else you found when doing this job? I'm still getting all the goodies off the top of the engine. Head jobs are a bit deeper i the fun. I'm going to make sure I change out as many hoses and stuff when inder all that mess. She is a nice truck and worth the time and money. Thanks again.
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Old 06-27-2019, 04:18 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Not a problem.Your welcome.It doesn’t hurt to do the head gaskets if your getting pressure where it shouldn’t be.But aside of that everything should go well.Just make sure you lube the o-rings with the vasoline so they won’t cut on you when you install the cup fully.
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1996 GMC Sierra ext.cab Z71....with new genuine GM 6.2 660 short block,4L80E/6.5TD cylinder heads,DS4 5521S,82' 6.2 rocker arms,acdelco TP1069/Racor 20S fuel filters,4" diamond eye exhaust,3.73 G80 locker,stanadyne 37818 injectors

1996 Chevy K1500 Z71.....with '99 6.5 506 goodwrench van engine,88-93 6.2 diesel Napa y-pipe,'87 700R4,acdelco TP630F/Racor 20S fuel filters,Bosch non-turbo injectors,stanadyne blue tag 5088

1993 Chevy K1500 Z71...with 97' 6.5 TD 506 block,82' 6.2 rocker arms,stanadyne 37818 injectors,stanadyne blue tag 4911,DSG girdle,reman 700R4,Banks boost/pyrometer gauges,acdelco TP1069/TP943 fuel filter system,4 diamond eye exhaust/2 piece crossover

2008 Mercedes Benz E320 3.0 V6 turbo diesel

2013 Volkswagen Passat 2.0 TDI
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Old 06-27-2019, 10:04 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Don't be surprised when you pull your heads that you find no evidence of a head gasket failure. The odds are that you have a leaking injector cup or two. If you pull the heads, have them checked out by a machine shop to make sure the valve guides aren't worn badly and have them replaced as necessary if needed. What power level have you been running on this engine and what are you planning on running?
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Old 06-28-2019, 02:42 AM   #9 (permalink)
Stryker100
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dieselolds. I bought some of this. I cut an o ring on the up pipe on the water pump job last year.

https://www.ebay.com/p/AGS-Sg8-Sil-g...-117182-37290-
0&mkcid=2&itemid=322942646854&targetid=59507642440 8&device=c&adtype=pla&googleloc=9021327&poi=&campa ignid=1689407462&adgroupid=74365777588&rlsatarget= aud-622524040998:pla-595076424408&abcId=1140476&merchantid=118846489&gc lid=CjwKCAjw0tHoBRBhEiwAvP1GFWZfNL80JbdN3qOlivtuN1 c1FCGGxNJ79CdArHY6GGk022ysThfLJxoCoZkQAvD_BwE

D.Camilleri I will have the heads looked at. I put an edge cts2 on it last year and just been running it on 1. My EGT's have been kinds high when pulling the RV up hills. I'm gonna open Her up a little and see how much that drops. I have enough power to pull any hill. its just keeping the temps below 1300 is pretty hard. I hope the injectors help that out as well as the piping. I dont plan on turning her up to much. More of a reliable daily around my 3 mile wide town and pulling the RV a dozen times in the summer.

Anyone done the up and down pipe with the heads off? Still a pain? I figured now was better time then ever. Any thing that the turbo needs while this far in? I'm not upgrading it, But could clean it or change out the gaskets if they have issues.
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Old 06-28-2019, 09:01 AM   #10 (permalink)
Stryker100
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So, As I dig further. I see more fuel lines with banjo washers on them or what ever seals they have. Is this gonna be a parts per play kinda thing? How and where do I find all the new seals to put this back together right? Anyone have a GM parts breakdown on all the fuel line seals? Or something along the line? Looks like i will be taking a lot of things off that might not be in the upper end kit. Thanks

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