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Old 12-24-2017, 03:47 PM   #11 (permalink)
XTreeFarmer
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The bed starts with the side rails. I have developed my own system now for building a flatbed that intigrates stake pockets into the middle of some rectangle tubing. I have two sections per side on this build.

I start with some 6" x 3" x 3/16" rectangular tubing. After cutting the tube to length, it's time to mark up the short side for the stake pockets every two feet on center. You have to mark both sides of the tube as well.

Below is all the tools of the job and in process

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File Type: jpg IMG_3667.jpg (135.1 KB, 5 views)
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Old 12-24-2017, 04:10 PM   #12 (permalink)
XTreeFarmer
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So let's start be doing some math here first. The sides are 3" wide minus 3/16" on each side or 3/8" leaves 2-5/8" on the inside. The stake pocket itself is a piece of 2" x 4" x 3/16" rectangle. The stake pockets go completely through the side material and are 6" deep and centered in the side rails. So if you are following along with me there is 1/2" of material on each side of the stake pocket and .3125" of space inside of the side rail. I used this technique on a tilt-bed trailer I made earlier in the year and used the space inside the rail as a chase for my side lighting .

So after marking things up, it's time to cut. My friend calls it "Cowboy Cutting", cuz I use a 4-1/2" grinder and some friction cut off wheels. The trick is to be as steady and straight as possible. The holes are just a touch bigger than 2" x 4". After cutting both long and short sides it's the sawzall and a steel cutting blade. Wa-La. Now, repeat 40 times. 8 pockets on 2 sides, both top and bottom and 4 across the back.

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File Type: jpg IMG_3676.jpg (89.3 KB, 6 views)
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Old 12-24-2017, 04:23 PM   #13 (permalink)
XTreeFarmer
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Now here is a better look at a finished section and what the stake pocket looks like before welding it up. Then welded in place. I also have a system for keeping the 2x4's from falling through, 1/2 cut washers. Why the washer?

1. it keeps the 2x4's from falling through.
2. rain and debris can fall through.
3. because it's welded on the inside underneath of the pocket, the outside can be used for a ratchet strap catch point.
4. a piece of chain with a hook can also be ran through the stake pocket without too much problem.
5. it can easily be replaced.

Just my assessment.
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File Type: jpg IMG_3716.jpg (135.5 KB, 5 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_3721.jpg (90.3 KB, 5 views)
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Old 12-24-2017, 06:06 PM   #14 (permalink)
XTreeFarmer
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Next step on the bed is the big stake pockets, think receiver hitch. There will be two on each side, one in the middle and one on the back corner. They are also different sizes as well. The one on the back corner is designed to accept a piece of steel 2"x6". The one in the middle of the bed accepts a 2"x4" piece of steel. There is nothing off the shelf for this and it is a new experiment for me. I hope it works.

I went back to the steel scrapyard and found some 3/8" leg angle. One piece is 5"x3" and the other is 8"x4". The problem is, the steel needed to be 7/16" thick. I purchase 4' of each. The pockets will be 1' deep and have some 3/4" holes just to secure the uprights if needed (I will not be able to add the holes later). I cut the pieces to 1' lengths, then cut off some of the leg on every piece so the material will be 7"x3" and 5"x3" respectively. Then I took some scrap steel plate around 14 gauge and drilled a series of hole in it for weld tack points and welded them to the inside part of the leg material. I used the 2x material as the template before welding (i.e. does it slide in and out without binding? Also is there minimal slop?) Overall, I don't really like how this came together. I think it will work, but not my best effort. Now for the pictures.
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File Type: jpg IMG_3678.jpg (131.6 KB, 4 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_3708.jpg (84.5 KB, 4 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_3715.jpg (91.3 KB, 4 views)
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Old 12-24-2017, 06:15 PM   #15 (permalink)
XTreeFarmer
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Bed sides are next. This part is pretty straight forward. A whole lot of clamps, a long piece of alignment steel and then double and triple check everything several times. You start to get a sense of how this is all going to some together. You can also see where I am using the tilt trailer I mentioned earlier as my work table. Also you can see the stake pockets on that project.

8 days to harvest
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File Type: jpg IMG_3717.jpg (100.3 KB, 6 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_3719.jpg (97.0 KB, 6 views)
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Old 12-24-2017, 06:26 PM   #16 (permalink)
XTreeFarmer
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The bed itself is also very straight forward. The sides that I put together, then add 2"x3"x.125" rectangle as cross members placed every foot on center. The front cross member is a piece of 3'x3'x.1875" steel. Line everything up the outside pieces as close as possible. Measure from corner to corner about two dozen times and weld. Then fill in the cross members welding them down 3/16" from the top of the side rails. I will be using a piece of 1/4" steel plate for the deck. Only one picture

6 days to harvest begins
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Old 12-24-2017, 11:12 PM   #17 (permalink)
Rambos_Ride
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Fun project - least..looks like it to me!

I like those cabover dumpers, would have liked to have found one with a 4-5yd bed but they're like unicorns.

I ended up with a 97 C3500 HD gasser with a 4yd elec/hyd royal dump bed. I wish it was a 6.5td 4x4...but those are unicorns too!
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Old 01-20-2018, 03:31 PM   #18 (permalink)
XTreeFarmer
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Time for some more.

I made a rear plate/bumper/tow/ what have you out of a piece of 1/2" plate. No real build pictures, just a finished project. It's was really all about layout and drilling holes. I did tape the holes for the trailer plug and licience plate so all I have to do is screw in bolts.
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Old 01-20-2018, 03:54 PM   #19 (permalink)
XTreeFarmer
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Had to make an adjustment to the end of the frame to accommodate the 16' bed I will be installing. Frame is set up for an 18' bed. That is too long for me. So, after fully installing the double framing and getting it all snugged down, I started making some measurements. The hinge is built around a piece of 4x4x1/2 angle so I will need to be notched to accept it. Just like Norm Abrams has thought us for years, "measure twice, cut once". Ok, measure 4 or five time and think about it for several minutes to make sure you are accounting for everything. No going back once the damage is done.
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Old 01-20-2018, 04:02 PM   #20 (permalink)
XTreeFarmer
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Now time for the down rails as I call them. These are the pieces that come down from the main frame rails at the end of the truck to hold the rear plate. For me, they are a couple of pieces of 1x2" leg angle. Same notch as in the end of the frame. This is what the hinge will actually be welded to. Lots of 3/4" Grade 8 hardware with Gripco nuts. They are like nylocks only stronger and more secure. Sorry, no picture of the hardware. I'll pic that up in a later post.

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File Type: jpg IMG_3701.jpg (109.6 KB, 3 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_3704.jpg (134.2 KB, 3 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_3706.jpg (154.0 KB, 3 views)
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