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Old 01-11-2017, 12:06 AM   #1 (permalink)
Ac808
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99 GMC suburban k2500 motor rebuild with a 96 base

I'm new to diesel and I'm making the jump in with both feet. I got a 99 diesel suburban which had a spun bearing (currently unknown if it is a rod or main) but I also bought a second 6.5 motor 1996 so I wouldn't need to concern with obd 1 or 2 swap also.
The 96 motor was said to be running before it was pulled, albeit with some blow-by. The seller recommended a hone and rings, but assured me the block& crank are good candidates for a rebuild.
Assuming it is rebuildable, should I hit any issues from the accessories from the 99 motor going on the 96 motor then into the 99 body? (Short of having to work under a carport in winter)

So, I'm waiting on the weather to break then I'm gonna start dismantling the motor to get the block to a machine shop (got one local with good reputation and moderately low prices) but having no experience with diesel I wanted the forum's help picking what parts to buy, change out or refresh.

My goal for the burb is a reliable daily driver that can run on diesel, biodiesel, and veggie oil. Occasionally tow a 30 ft camper (up to 8k lbs). I think stock plus as far as power, I dunno what a powerful vehicle drives like as I'm currently in an s10, and previously several minivans and hatchbacks, so I'm certain I'm upgrading enough for my entry.

What are things I should get& upgrade? And what brands are worth the loot in gaskets and bearings? I know arp headstuds and a fluidamper HB and I've heard of lift pumps and injectors, but I'm feeling a lil overwhelmed at the variety of things out there, and haven't found a comprehensive list of considerations for a rebuild, just some focus points that oem tends to fail at.

The 96 motor has no accessories with it except the turbo, and the 99 motor is complete and currently in vehicle.

Here's a quick pic of the burb and donor motor
20161210_164555.jpg

20161031_081305.jpg

My first actions will be to prep the block for the machine shop, and while that's there go over the heads myself for a refresh.
Also am I correct in thinking the 99 heads are straight up compatible with the 96?

I guess that's it for my first post. Thanx in advance.
808 out

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Old 01-11-2017, 12:43 AM   #2 (permalink)
OkDually
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ac808 View Post
I'm new to diesel and I'm making the jump in with both feet. I got a 99 diesel suburban which had a spun bearing (currently unknown if it is a rod or main) but I also bought a second 6.5 motor 1996 so I wouldn't need to concern with obd 1 or 2 swap also.
The 96 motor was said to be running before it was pulled, albeit with some blow-by. The seller recommended a hone and rings, but assured me the block& crank are good candidates for a rebuild.
Assuming it is rebuildable, should I hit any issues from the accessories from the 99 motor going on the 96 motor then into the 99 body? (Short of having to work under a carport in winter)

So, I'm waiting on the weather to break then I'm gonna start dismantling the motor to get the block to a machine shop (got one local with good reputation and moderately low prices) but having no experience with diesel I wanted the forum's help picking what parts to buy, change out or refresh.

My goal for the burb is a reliable daily driver that can run on diesel, biodiesel, and veggie oil. Occasionally tow a 30 ft camper (up to 8k lbs). I think stock plus as far as power, I dunno what a powerful vehicle drives like as I'm currently in an s10, and previously several minivans and hatchbacks, so I'm certain I'm upgrading enough for my entry.

What are things I should get& upgrade? And what brands are worth the loot in gaskets and bearings? I know arp headstuds and a fluidamper HB and I've heard of lift pumps and injectors, but I'm feeling a lil overwhelmed at the variety of things out there, and haven't found a comprehensive list of considerations for a rebuild, just some focus points that oem tends to fail at.

The 96 motor has no accessories with it except the turbo, and the 99 motor is complete and currently in vehicle.

Here's a quick pic of the burb and donor motor


My first actions will be to prep the block for the machine shop, and while that's there go over the heads myself for a refresh.
Also am I correct in thinking the 99 heads are straight up compatible with the 96?

I guess that's it for my first post. Thanx in advance.
808 out

Everything from the 96' should transfer with no issues.

__________________
1996 K3500 6.5L,( "F" Eng #141 cast block) 5 speed manual, crewcab, dually longbed: 208,000mi.
Diamond Eye 4" Turbo Back Exhaust w/2.5" Flo-Pro Crossover
AirDog II DF165 w/ tank sock delete - XDP
TD-Max boost controller - Kennedy Diesel
OPS extension hose - Leroy Diesel
Glow Plug Harness- PT Wiring Solutions
Glowshift Maxtow EGT,Boost, Fuel gauges
Boost & Fuel Pressure Bolts - Leroy Diesel
2/0 Battery Cable Upgrade - PT Wiring Solutions
PMD w/#9 resistor and Re-Location Kit, mounted to bumper - Leroy Diesel
GM-5 Turbocharger
4.10 gear ratio
OptiLube summer + Formula


Proud member #1039 of The 3500 Dually Club

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Old 01-13-2017, 05:41 PM   #3 (permalink)
deejaaa
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even a 93 will. block, except for a few changes, is the same so obd 1 or 2 is no concern.
before sending to machine shop, check mains for cracks. might same time/money if you locate the first.
heads are interchangeable.
use your 99 dual t-stat and WP.
replace HB and pulley.

bio and veg have been causing issues lately....from another site:
ULSD is more prone to infection of bacteria and fungus than the old diesel of past as
Biodiesel appears to allow this stuff to grow even faster.

After the Water In Fuel light went on he pulled fuel from FFM into a glass jar. It had some water in bottom. 2 days later it had white 1" strings of white [email protected] growing off of water to fuel interface. Walbro pump screen was plugged with snot and main filter smelled nasty.

He burned off as much fuel as possible, dropped tank, sucked remaining water/fuel out, used a long pole with washcloth zip tied on end as a giant q-tip to swab tank. Steam cleaning's preferred. Then cleaned lines to first filter. Fuel pickup tube in tank can have a good build up of bug slime. This was round 3 with this stuff, a tank sock just causes trouble: makes draining tank harder in future should bugs come back.

Biocide added to fuel kill bugs. They clump, coat tank bottom making you reach for a new fuel filter. Disposing of 34 gal of fuel may be cheaper than filters. He tossed 7 gal from above issue and 2 filters. Put biocide in after quickly burning as much fuel as possible as they double their numbers in 20 min! Drop tank to clean, change filters, clean out FFM. Biocide in FFM and tank before new fuel. Run biocide through transfer pump used to clean out tank: it's infected now too.

Note: bugs usually ruin fuel level sensors so replace while in there and forget about putting tank sock on again! Will need a strainer before LP that's easy to change, around 40 micron max. LeroyDiesel.com has fuel level sensors that don't get ruined by bugs, build up, acids in contaminated fuel. His sensor has outlived a Walbro under this abuse.

More info on biocide and problems:

Sail Delmarva: Diesel and Biocides
Per Hammonds Biobor website it has the most important requirement : dual phase! Killing the bugs in the fuel because modern ULSD and Bio mixes hold enough water suspended in the fuel for the bugs to grow in fuel. Just like brake fluid adsorbs water.

The second thing to remember is to switch it up now and then to make sure to kill the bugs that get immunity or new bugs. A test kit for infection can confirm the product you overnight shipped is killing bugs. Time is critical in infection to keep the mess down.

Biobor Jf Fuel Additives - Products
Dual Phase - soluble in both water and fuel phases for a more effective kill
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trbon8r View Post
"Member #1 of The A$$h0le Club" Your signature is most appropriate.
Black 93 1 ton crew cab, fuel/boost gauge, spin-on pre-FFM filter, 6.5 stock, 30 gal bed mounted tank,soon to be siphon tank, w/Goldenrod on feed, brought home 9/4/08, Turbo that starts with A, OEM crossover, quad headlights, reskinned door cards/headliner, 2 power-ports on lower dash, hour-meter, 235/85R16LT tires, GV unit(2K rpm at 68 mph w/4:10's), TCI EZ-TCU 4L80, working on DD Radio install, OEM tank removed but soon replaced.
Proud Member #11 of the 3500 CC LB SRW Club
Member #1 of The A$$h0le Club
Quote:
Originally Posted by subclatter View Post
...get it under control or someone might cave in your head someday.....People get killed everyday because of attitudes like yours. All it takes is running into the wrong person at the wrong time. You shoot off your mouth and they shoot off your head and suddenly you're pushing up daisies.
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Old 01-15-2017, 08:46 PM   #4 (permalink)
Ac808
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Thanx for the replies.
It's reassuring that I shouldn't run into compatibility issues.
And thanx for giving advice on potential problems with the wvo conversion. I've mainly just seen overly positive stuff or exceedingly negative comments on that.
Also I watched a vid on Leroy's fuel level sensor. I like the thoughts behind it and was thinking that would be a good idea for the second tank at least, if not both.

I've been working till past dark since my last post, so I've done nothing to progress my burb, cuz I'm being a baby and not wanting to work under a cold carport. But I'm taking this time to read thru more of the noob areas so I can increase my familiarity with the options available for my rebuild.

I'll try to post in here at least once a week or more once I start wrenching, cuz it'll help me stay on point and may also help someone else who is in a similar situation.

I'll try filling out my Sig thru this week so I have a starting point for my build.

The couple upgrades the suburban seems to have currently are pmd relocation, 4" exhaust, and an oil pressure gauge under the hood.

Why is the oil pressure gauge under the hood?

Ok, think that's it for now.
808 out
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Old 01-15-2017, 09:50 PM   #5 (permalink)
OkDually
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ac808 View Post
Thanx for the replies.
It's reassuring that I shouldn't run into compatibility issues.
And thanx for giving advice on potential problems with the wvo conversion. I've mainly just seen overly positive stuff or exceedingly negative comments on that.
Also I watched a vid on Leroy's fuel level sensor. I like the thoughts behind it and was thinking that would be a good idea for the second tank at least, if not both.

I've been working till past dark since my last post, so I've done nothing to progress my burb, cuz I'm being a baby and not wanting to work under a cold carport. But I'm taking this time to read thru more of the noob areas so I can increase my familiarity with the options available for my rebuild.

I'll try to post in here at least once a week or more once I start wrenching, cuz it'll help me stay on point and may also help someone else who is in a similar situation.

I'll try filling out my Sig thru this week so I have a starting point for my build.

The couple upgrades the suburban seems to have currently are pmd relocation, 4" exhaust, and an oil pressure gauge under the hood.

Why is the oil pressure gauge under the hood?

Ok, think that's it for now.
808 out

Please post of pic of the gauge in its location..
__________________
1996 K3500 6.5L,( "F" Eng #141 cast block) 5 speed manual, crewcab, dually longbed: 208,000mi.
Diamond Eye 4" Turbo Back Exhaust w/2.5" Flo-Pro Crossover
AirDog II DF165 w/ tank sock delete - XDP
TD-Max boost controller - Kennedy Diesel
OPS extension hose - Leroy Diesel
Glow Plug Harness- PT Wiring Solutions
Glowshift Maxtow EGT,Boost, Fuel gauges
Boost & Fuel Pressure Bolts - Leroy Diesel
2/0 Battery Cable Upgrade - PT Wiring Solutions
PMD w/#9 resistor and Re-Location Kit, mounted to bumper - Leroy Diesel
GM-5 Turbocharger
4.10 gear ratio
OptiLube summer + Formula


Proud member #1039 of The 3500 Dually Club


Last edited by OkDually; 01-15-2017 at 09:50 PM.
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Old 01-17-2017, 05:05 PM   #6 (permalink)
Ac808
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Here's the oil gauge.

20170117_163535.jpg

Also what is this disconnected valve for?

20170117_165103.jpg

And what are all the plumbing fixtures for? I'm not used to seeing that under the hood.

20170117_163615.jpg
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Old 01-17-2017, 05:18 PM   #7 (permalink)
deejaaa
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gauge is there because someone didn't take the time to put it in the cab.
drain is from FFM. to drain water.
plumbing looks like for the heater. where does it lead to? might be for external engine heater that circulates warm fluid.
why is VC for CDR blocked off?
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by trbon8r View Post
"Member #1 of The A$$h0le Club" Your signature is most appropriate.
Black 93 1 ton crew cab, fuel/boost gauge, spin-on pre-FFM filter, 6.5 stock, 30 gal bed mounted tank,soon to be siphon tank, w/Goldenrod on feed, brought home 9/4/08, Turbo that starts with A, OEM crossover, quad headlights, reskinned door cards/headliner, 2 power-ports on lower dash, hour-meter, 235/85R16LT tires, GV unit(2K rpm at 68 mph w/4:10's), TCI EZ-TCU 4L80, working on DD Radio install, OEM tank removed but soon replaced.
Proud Member #11 of the 3500 CC LB SRW Club
Member #1 of The A$$h0le Club
Quote:
Originally Posted by subclatter View Post
...get it under control or someone might cave in your head someday.....People get killed everyday because of attitudes like yours. All it takes is running into the wrong person at the wrong time. You shoot off your mouth and they shoot off your head and suddenly you're pushing up daisies.

Last edited by deejaaa; 01-17-2017 at 05:26 PM.
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Old 01-17-2017, 05:52 PM   #8 (permalink)
OkDually
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deejaaa View Post
gauge is there because someone didn't take the time to put it in the cab.
drain is from FFM. to drain water.
plumbing looks like for the heater. where does it lead to? might be for external engine heater that circulates warm fluid.
why is VC for CDR blocked off?
Valve cover is blocked off because the PO removed the original CDR and blocked it off.
Re-routing the blowby and combustion gasses through the blue hose from the oil fill neck to the intake on the turbo.

With all that oil seepage/leaking, I bet that engine smells wonderful when it gets up to operating temp


All I can say is, yikes!
__________________
1996 K3500 6.5L,( "F" Eng #141 cast block) 5 speed manual, crewcab, dually longbed: 208,000mi.
Diamond Eye 4" Turbo Back Exhaust w/2.5" Flo-Pro Crossover
AirDog II DF165 w/ tank sock delete - XDP
TD-Max boost controller - Kennedy Diesel
OPS extension hose - Leroy Diesel
Glow Plug Harness- PT Wiring Solutions
Glowshift Maxtow EGT,Boost, Fuel gauges
Boost & Fuel Pressure Bolts - Leroy Diesel
2/0 Battery Cable Upgrade - PT Wiring Solutions
PMD w/#9 resistor and Re-Location Kit, mounted to bumper - Leroy Diesel
GM-5 Turbocharger
4.10 gear ratio
OptiLube summer + Formula


Proud member #1039 of The 3500 Dually Club


Last edited by OkDually; 01-17-2017 at 05:58 PM.
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Old 01-17-2017, 06:07 PM   #9 (permalink)
Ac808
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The valve is to drain water? Why is it on top then? Or should there be a matching bottom valve to let the water out?

I'll trace the plumbing out when it's not raining.

And I dunno what vc is, and looking up cdr, I don't think I quite follow what it is either... If it's like a vacuum thing for the waste gate, I think I've got a mechanical waste gate for the turbo. So I dunno if that answers that or if I'm wrong in my guess.

I've never touched a diesel engine before I got this suburban, so I'm wholly unfamiliar with what's under the hood. Not to mention my ignorance with this burb in particular, as I bought it with dead batteries and a spun bearing, but the body is in decent shape and it has a trans rebuild 80k ago. Tho I noticed the front differential is covered in oils, so I think that will need a rebuild as well. Just mentioning cuz I'm willing to learn, but I'm starting from ground zero.
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99 k2500 GMC suburban 6.5l
Soon to have a rebuilt 96 6.5l motor installed...
As soon as I rebuild it...
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Old 01-17-2017, 06:14 PM   #10 (permalink)
Ac808
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OKdually, is it a bad thing that the valve cover is closed off and it's rerouted from the oil fill? What would that accomplish?

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99 k2500 GMC suburban 6.5l
Soon to have a rebuilt 96 6.5l motor installed...
As soon as I rebuild it...
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