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Old 05-01-2016, 12:19 AM   #21 (permalink)
jevs
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I almost forgot. The radiator baffle plastic piece that connects to the rubber piece had a cracked off part where one of the push pins goes in, so I ordered a new one of those as well. Hope this stuff goes up to the new style bumper....

I also ordered some new bolts that go around the fender lip for the inner fender. A couple were missing. Don't you just love it when people remove stuff for service and lose stuff and mix it up....this is why I don't let anyone touch my stuff when it is out of warranty. Even the dealer left the bottom engine covers loose on my last two cars after oil changes more than once.

I scored a set of new take off tow hooks with the needed hardware for a good price on the auction site. This is before I decided to get the new style front end so I hope they will line up ok.

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Last edited by jevs; 05-01-2016 at 12:20 AM.
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Old 05-01-2016, 12:29 AM   #22 (permalink)
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I decided to replace the sway bar links and bushings since I already had the links out for the axles.
I wire wheeled off the crusty rusty spots where the bushings rubbed the paint or powder coat away. No sense in putting new bushings over rusty rough scale. I then hit the spots with some rust control paint. I will grease the bar when the new bushings go on.

I bought some links and bushings at Napa, but the bushings were 32mm and my bar is 36mm. The auto parts stores don't list bushings this size for an 08, you have to go to an 09. I ended up taking it all back and getting a refund.

I cannot decide on bushings and links. I am waiting on the links just in case I decide to do a lift. Energy suspension makes greasable bushings and they have end links, but I am leery because many people say these bushing in other applications squeak and I am not sure I need more stuff to grease. I will have to do more research and see if anyone has experience with their kit on this truck.

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Old 05-01-2016, 12:40 AM   #23 (permalink)
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One of the top things to do on this truck was getting the frame all sealed up inside and out, surface rust neutralized, and painted.
I spent many nights cleaning the frame trying to get all the crud out of everywhere. I even spent hours getting a rats nest or a squirrels nest or something out of the frame where the tank is. There is no easy way to get to that spot without dropping the tank. Whatever built a nest there had string and all kinds of stuff holding it in there real good
I finally got it all out. And after many cleanings all the gravel and gravel dust buildup is pretty much gone now. This truck shed some dead weight and I probably cleared out a few rattles.
I also cleaned out the rocker panels. They were full of dirt. It took a lot of spraying and cleansing through the cleaning holes to get it all out. I will be spraying internal frame coating in there to rust proof it.
My first step after getting everything clean was to use phosphoric acid on all the surface rust to prep it for paint. I first used up some SEM Rust mort I had, but when I looked into getting more I found the stuff I mentioned in an early post that is the same thing and much cheaper.
Here are a few shots of the frame after cleaning but before making it look nice. This seemed pretty typical of the trucks I looked at where the owner had not already coated them with something. Whatever GM uses sucks.
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Last edited by jevs; 05-01-2016 at 12:43 AM.
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Old 05-01-2016, 12:48 AM   #24 (permalink)
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I put the truck on my lift which is a bit of a squeeze. What stinks is the back hangs out the garage, so each day I want to put it on there, I have to take it back off at the end of the night

I needed it on the lift to clean it some more underneath and treat the frame. Attached are couple shots of the phosphoric acid doing its work and converting the surface rust.

This stuff does etch your concrete, so be prepared for a bunch of white spots I did wear a respirator and eye protection. I would recommend some long rubber gloves that go up your forearms too. It is virtually impossible on a low lift to not get it on you and it is a long way down the frame and all the components on this thing! Quite time consuming.
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Last edited by jevs; 05-01-2016 at 12:53 AM.
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Old 05-01-2016, 01:12 AM   #25 (permalink)
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After treating the frame and cleaning it, I sprayed off all the frame and stuff with lacquer thinner as a final cleaning. I am coating the frame with Eastwood rust encapsulator paint and it is thinned with lacquer thinner, so that is a safe method of cleaning for this paint. I use an old Binks Model 7 suction feed gun that flows like none of my newer HVLP stuff for cleaning parts. I just open it up with high pressure going in and use it to blast parts clean This was handed down to me from my dad decades ago when it was already old and the thing just keeps taking a beating and keeps working! I have been using it to clean parts for a long time.
I am also using the internal frame coating in the boxed portions of the frame, down the connecting tubes, through the hitch, in the rockers, and also down the lower bed rails that seem like they are going to be a rust problem for a lot of the trucks I looked at. I hate rust. I am trying to coat everything inside and out.
I bought a little $13 touch up gun and some hose and fittings at harbor freight to spray under the truck. My other good touch up gun and guns are all gravity feed. I thought the cup on the bottom might let me get into spots under the truck easier. It seems to work good. You can thin the spray pattern and increase the pressure and shoot it into a lot of spots pretty good. The coil hose is not great. It is too stiff, but I did not want the extra length of a quick connect and stuff at the end of the gun. One of the cloth braided hoses like an airbrush uses would be much better, but the one they had at Harbor Freight did not seem to have a fitting I could find an adapter for. Anyway, this works as it is.
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Last edited by jevs; 05-01-2016 at 01:15 AM.
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Old 05-01-2016, 01:35 AM   #26 (permalink)
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I forgot to mention. During my cleaning, I found a spot in these frames that seems to catch water and sludge and there seems to be no way for it to escape quickly. I kept cleaning in this frame hole and then when I would blow into the hole with air to clean more, muddy water would shoot out even after sitting for a day.

I finally drilled a 1/2" hole with the bottom of the hole flush to the top of the lower frame flat portion on the inside above the rear bump stops. This way any water that goes in can go right back out. When I drilled this out a big flow of muddy water went onto the ground as pictured that was trapped in there.

I coated the inside with the internal frame coating once I cleaned it with water until it flowed clean and sprayed it out with lacquer thinner.

I would be interested to see if anyone else has found this or done this? I am also curious if this will end up being a rot out spot for some down the road.
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Last edited by jevs; 05-01-2016 at 01:37 AM.
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Old 05-01-2016, 01:45 AM   #27 (permalink)
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I finally got to the point of painting the frame and suspension components etc. I got about half way down and ran out of paint. A quart does not go far on this long truck. I had to order some more. I also had one bad can of the internal frame coating that had to be tossed. It would not spray. So I ordered 3 more cans of the internal frame coating and three more quarts of paint. I also got them to send me a replacement for the bad can.
I did not want to get this thing up in the air, get all the wheels off etc again and then run out again. It sure does look better when there is no rust staring you in the face.
The internal frame coating I had is green. I ordered the black this time. It does not really matter much since I spray in the holes where you can see with black anyway.
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Old 05-01-2016, 01:53 AM   #28 (permalink)
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The arm rest has a bad spot in it. The GM parts listings skip the number that points to this part. I am not sure how I am going to replace it or why they don't list it even though it is numbered. Seems like maybe they ran out of them.
If anyone knows where I can get a replacement without buying a whole new door panel, let me know.
There was a bolt missing that holds one of the engine wiring harnesses. I replaced it. I assume it was more of that awesome service you get when people don't care about your vehicle.
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Old 05-01-2016, 02:12 AM   #29 (permalink)
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Many of the plastic wire loom protective covers around the engine have started to crumble and fall apart and sections were missing. It is obvious that some of them are inferior OEM parts to the others. Some are just fine and some right next to them are falling apart.
I went through the whole engine bay and replaced all the flex loom that was crumbly, missing, or falling apart. All the wiring was fine.
Here are a few before and after shots. I am not going to post them all, but they are all fixed now. There was a bunch of places like these all over the engine and engine bay.
It seems like they use a better wrap on the wires that are hugging against the motor. There is also a mix of the loom like I said. Some seems to be good and still holding up and others falling apart.
Next time your under your truck reach up and grab a few wires and squeeze. See if the loom falls apart If so, time to make some replacements.
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Last edited by jevs; 05-01-2016 at 02:18 AM.
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Old 05-01-2016, 02:26 AM   #30 (permalink)
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The truck had a check engine light when I bought it. He had already scanned it and bought the part to fix it. I also had him scan it while I was there. It was just number 5 glow plug. I replaced it and cleared the code.

Yay, the remote start works now without shutting off!

I did clean the connector and used some Honda connector lithium grease on the connector and stud. This should keep the moisture out and also make sure the nut comes off easy for next replacement.

I used a tiny bit of anti-seize on the glow plug threads. I am not sure if these ever get stuck, but I figured might as well.

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