Question: Advice for LLY Head Gasket replacement - Diesel Place : Chevrolet and GMC Diesel Truck Forums
 
Home Forum Market Place Garage Tuning Library DTC Tool Register Vendors
Go Back   Diesel Place : Chevrolet and GMC Diesel Truck Forums > GM Diesel Engines > Duramax Second Generation: 2004.5-2005 (LLY)
Register FAQ Forum Rules My Replies My Threads Mark Forums Read Advertise

Duramax Second Generation: 2004.5-2005 (LLY) Discuss the second generation (2004.5-2005 LLY) of the 6.6L Duramax diesel engine & associated components. 2006 LLY engine discussion belongs in Third Generation forum due to the differences of the 2006 LLY and the 2004.5-2005 LLY. Engine related discussion ONLY.

DieselPlace.com is the premier Duramax Diesel Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Like Tree1Likes
  • 1 Post By jake111

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
Old 03-19-2020, 03:51 AM   #1 (permalink)
tenderdurden
Gear Grinder
 
Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: UT
Posts: 4
iTrader Score: 0 reviews

Advice for LLY Head Gasket replacement

I'll try to keep this short. I got this 2005 LLY for WAY less than it's worth. However, it does need to have the head gaskets replaced.

The truck still ran with great power before I started on this (except spitting out all the coolant.) It has had over $6,500 in maintenance done in 2019, new transfer case, new transmission, $1,500 in new tires, and it has clearly been well-loved in the past. I'd rather not spend $6,000 to get the heads done at the shop. I've spent DAYS researching and watching how it is done. If I do put extra money in, I'd rather learn about my truck and have a decent tool set to show for the expense.

Do I add the EGR delete or block while I'm at it? How about the turbo inlet that I've heard are bad on these LLY's? It has a Bully Dog performance system, so do I really NEED studs or can I get by with head bolts? I'd like to keep this all under $2,500 if possible, so if anyone can point me in the right direction, I'd really appreciate it. I don't want to take this all apart again any time soon.

Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_1201.jpg (95.3 KB, 9 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_1197.jpg (87.3 KB, 8 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_1202.jpg (96.8 KB, 8 views)
File Type: jpg IMG-1874.jpg (137.4 KB, 8 views)
__________________
2005 GMC Crewcab 4WD SLT LLY Duramax
Bully Dog performance system

Last edited by OkDually; 03-19-2020 at 08:52 AM. Reason: prefix/sig
Offline  
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 03-19-2020, 08:53 AM   #2 (permalink)
OkDually
Administrator
 
OkDually's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: N.E. Oklahoma
Posts: 15,124
iTrader Score: 0 reviews

Lifetime Premium-7 Member

Welcome to DieselPlace


__________________
1996 K3500 6.5L,( "F" Eng #141 cast block) 5 speed manual, crewcab, dually longbed: 208,000mi.
Diamond Eye 4" Turbo Back Exhaust w/2.5" Flo-Pro Crossover
AirDog II DF165 w/ tank sock delete - XDP
TD-Max boost controller - Kennedy Diesel
OPS extension hose - Leroy Diesel
Glow Plug Harness- PT Wiring Solutions
Glowshift Maxtow EGT,Boost, Fuel gauges
Boost & Fuel Pressure Bolts - Leroy Diesel
2/0 Battery Cable Upgrade - PT Wiring Solutions
PMD w/#9 resistor and Re-Location Kit, mounted to bumper - Leroy Diesel
GM-5 Turbocharger
4.10 gear ratio
OptiLube Winter Formula


Proud member #1039 of The 3500 Dually Club

Online   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-19-2020, 05:25 PM   #3 (permalink)
jake111
Diesel Boss
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: So. Calif.
Posts: 1,371
iTrader Score: 0 reviews

The general recommendation, to which I agree, is to use studs instead of the stock bolts. The initial cost is more, but if you have to do it over for whatever reason...

I would just block the EGR, and fingerstick if you get a CEL. Be sure to read up on problems if you think you want to delete the EGR.

See all that gunk on top of the passenger side battery? I suggest making a cover of some sort to keep water off the top. I bought a battery box from Walmart many years ago and just use the top to cover the battery (requires a little cutting of the top to fit). Otherwise, water drains off the cowl and may enter the top vent/fill caps which will destroy the battery.
__________________
2004.5 Silverado 3500 SRW 4x4, D/A (LLY), Ext. Cab, Long Bed
TxC V2 aux radiator w/Fan (leaked after 12 yrs), engineer837 aux rad , TxC CAI, LBZ MP, Scangauge II, Nicktane aux filter head, KD lift pump, 2008 PS pump, 2011 hydroboost, Frederico Swaybars, Rancho 9000XL, Torklift StableLoads, BFG AT/KO2, Lance 835 Camper often in the bed.
Offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 03-19-2020, 10:05 PM   #4 (permalink)
tenderdurden
Gear Grinder
 
Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: UT
Posts: 4
iTrader Score: 0 reviews

That's really good advice. We've still been getting a lot of rain and some snow out here, so I'm really wishing I had a shop or garage to do this. I ordered my gaskets, studs and EGR block. Bryan from LDS has been a HUGE help! I took advantage of this COVID coronavirus situation and ordered a bunch of other stuff I'll need (even oil, filter, and coolant) from Autozone because right now they are giving a 20% discount and free shipping on all ship-to-home orders. I went with Mahle C Grade on the gaskets.

I've seen some instructions on doing the water pump on here. Still trying to decide if I want to remove the front end or leave it in place. Just trying to decide how much I want to do all at once, but I'd rather not turn any bolts more times than I need to if I'm in there. Bryan helped me and we settled on doing the thermostats (obviously) and the water pump and glow plugs at the same time I do the head gaskets. Thanks for the response and all the great info on here!
__________________
2005 GMC Crewcab 4WD SLT LLY Duramax
Bully Dog performance system
Offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-21-2020, 02:50 AM   #5 (permalink)
axysassault
Diesel Student
 
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: Canada
Posts: 41
iTrader Score: 0 reviews

If you are good with wrenches, it's easy, and very doable within that budget. Even in cdn $ haha.

Are you planning on keeping the engine in? Or pulling it?

Either way, spend a few hours and remove the front clip. Gives way more room. Removing the front wheels and resting the ball joints or frame or discs on some blocks will make it easier on the back.

I'd remove the EGR for sure. You should see how much gunk builds up over time in the intake valves. Unreal. I can post a pic if you want to see lol.

I used stock head bolts on mine. Running a 60HP EFI tune and it's been fine for 20k kms.

Plan to get the heads hot tanked and milled at a reputable shop. I sent my injectors away to get cleaned and tested. Still good at 600k kms!

Maybe think about a new water pump as well, budget permitting.

I also can't stress enough the importance of using a table to keep parts in order of removal, and labeled ziplock bags for the bolts. Make it easy on yourself.

Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk
__________________
2003 Sierra CCSB with an LLY top end swap on an LB7 bottom.
LBZ full intake and mouthpiece, EGR delete, PCV re route and EFI Live tuning.
4" downpipe and 4" straight pipe.

Last edited by axysassault; 03-21-2020 at 02:58 AM.
Offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-27-2020, 06:28 AM   #6 (permalink)
tenderdurden
Gear Grinder
 
Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: UT
Posts: 4
iTrader Score: 0 reviews

I kept the engine in and removed the wheels. I did buy a water pump and the Lisle tool set. Today I finally... FINALLY got the head off the driver's side! It was a PITA to say the least, but I was really glad I got the downpipe bolts off the manifold without snapping them. On the passenger side I used two ratchet straps to pull around the back of the turbo and onto the front of the truck so I could lift the lower EGR bracket straight up. The second strap I hooked to the manifold so I could get the bolts out of the way. I pulled the tires and got the truck as low as possible. Taking the heads to the machine shop in the morning. I've been battling weather and couldn't use a topside creeper on gravel, so I used some old chairs and screwed a few 2 x 4's down, lol. I'll do the block prep tomorrow and start assembling once I get the heads back. I'm kinda proud of myself for getting this far! I'm tempted to paint the valve covers, but that might need to wait. Thanks again everyone for the help!
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_1947.jpg (127.9 KB, 3 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_1905.jpg (158.0 KB, 3 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_1969.jpg (129.2 KB, 3 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_1974.jpg (163.7 KB, 3 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_1941.jpg (83.6 KB, 3 views)
__________________
2005 GMC Crewcab 4WD SLT LLY Duramax
Bully Dog performance system
Offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-27-2020, 07:57 AM   #7 (permalink)
johnjr
Diesel Apprentice
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: sweetwater n.j.
Posts: 325
iTrader Score: 0 reviews

You sir, have ambition and determination! I have a 30x45 garage and have been working on trucks and machinery for 30 years,(not professionally) and wouldn’t do that job outdoors. Best of luck to you!
__________________
2017 Denali 3500 lb,cc,L5p
2004 LLY ccsb 4x4,MBRP cool duals,kodiak intake,285's,Predator
1985 M1009,4" lift,35 tires ,700r4,6.2
1995 K1500 Suburban 4x4 6.5 turbo
Offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old Today, 03:43 PM   #8 (permalink)
axysassault
Diesel Student
 
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: Canada
Posts: 41
iTrader Score: 0 reviews

Great work and determination!

One more thing, do not use brown (any color really) scotch pads for your block prep. The aluminum oxide dust it leaves behind or down your oil galleys is like microscopic sand paper and will destroy your bearings.

Best of luck!

Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk
__________________
2003 Sierra CCSB with an LLY top end swap on an LB7 bottom.
LBZ full intake and mouthpiece, EGR delete, PCV re route and EFI Live tuning.
4" downpipe and 4" straight pipe.
Offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Diesel Place : Chevrolet and GMC Diesel Truck Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

PLEASE READ! You must check your email inbox for the confirmation link to complete registration. Please check your spam box if you do not see the email in your inbox.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in


Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 07:01 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
SEO by vBSEO 3.6.1
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2020 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Shoutbox provided by vBShout v6.2.1 (Lite) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2020 DragonByte Technologies Ltd. Runs best on HiVelocity Hosting.
© AutoGuide