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Duramax Second Generation: 2004.5-2005 (LLY) Discuss the second generation (2004.5-2005 LLY) of the 6.6L Duramax diesel engine & associated components. 2006 LLY engine discussion belongs in Third Generation forum due to the differences of the 2006 LLY and the 2004.5-2005 LLY. Engine related discussion ONLY.

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Old 01-24-2020, 03:48 PM   #1 (permalink)
Shortys007
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2005 LLY Odd no crank no start

First off i have searched multiple forums, youtube and read countless tips/tricks etc.

2005 CCLB Silverado 2500
Duramax Allison combo
EFI tuned by Kory and Trans built by Mike L
175k on the chassis


Back Story: Ive had multiple duramax trucks, have worked on them myself turning wrenches and dabbling with EFI live, but im no electronic wiz by any means. I have done a LB7 to LLY swap, engine swaps, trans swaps etc.

Truck truck in question was bought from a young kid that blew the motor and ended up getting a known running motor with like miles. He took off some odd ball things in the engine bay to remove this thing- underhood fuse box, brake hydroboost and lines, trans lines and just other random stuff. Then came all the sensors and wiring harness let alone the fuse box, he realized he had no idea what to do or even where to start.

Insert me, I come pick up the truck for a deal and even got the old motor complete.

I finally get everything all buttoned back together. Go to crank it over, and nothing, not even a click at the starter solenoid.

I do have good batteries, I have no security / VATS light, glow plug light comes on in run and does its usual warm up cycle. everything in cab electrical work- windows, locks, lights, dash lights and gauges, HVAC, radio etc, abs/brake etc.


only Odd thing is i have NO light for the NSBU switch, no visual of PRND321. and obviously no crank/start. My thought is its not getting verification for what gear it is in and not allowing the engine to crank over.

Codes throwing:
P0381
C0040
B0159
B0229
U1000
B1259
B1372

I tried to connect EFI live to read the engine but in all honesty im not that smart when it comes to trouble shooting EFI live, I kept getting Error message- no cable interface found. I was attempting to have it connect / auto find the engine and transmission variation and it gave me that message. The hand held V2 allowed me to pull the codes, i tried to delete them and they just came back.


Things i have done:

fully charged and load tested batteries
verified all major grounds- batteries to engine/chassis
checked the both underhood and in cab fuse box, all fuses verified continuity
checked wiring harness at driver fender well
did the fuse pull for PCM and TCM reset with key in ON/RUN postion
checked the rear transmission plug, cleaned and verified tight connection
replaced NSBU switch and cleaned plug
checked wiring for ignition switch, all wires have power and yellow sends 12v when ignition turned to start
jumped the starter relay by running the #30 hot to PIN 87 (ithink it was 87) and it turns over
looked under the fuse box plugs for burnt or missing wires/corrosion etc, none found.


Ive read some posts about checking the purple wire/w tracing for 12v or something but im not that talented with electrical.

Any body have any ideas?

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2005 CCLB Silverado 2500 LLY Duramax Allison combo
EFI tuned by Kory and Trans built by Mike L

Last edited by OkDually; 01-24-2020 at 05:15 PM. Reason: prefix/sig
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Old 01-24-2020, 11:24 PM   #2 (permalink)
Ron Nielson
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Subscribe to ALLDADIY.COM (or similar) to get the needed information about your truck, DTC codes, Wiring Diagrams, GM parts and installation information etc.

Start with the DTC list and see what each of them are. The U1000 code means that something isn't communicating and that's a definite problem. You have a couple body control module codes and there could be problems there also.

Much of the testing is very simple to check the voltage and see if it is what it's supposed to be. Lots and lots of videos on Youtube to show you actual checking procedures.

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Old 01-25-2020, 07:50 AM   #3 (permalink)
Rvn4me
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P0381
https://www.dieselplace.com/forum/at...refdoc-185.pdf
https://www.dieselplace.com/forum/at...refdoc-172.pdf

C0040
Right Front Wheel Speed Sensor Circuit
Most likely you need a new RF wheel hub.

B0159
Modules: HCM
Description: Outside Air Temperature Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
You need to be sure there is 5 volts on the Light Green/Blk wire and ground on the Brown, if both are present be sure the connector to the sensor is good or maybe even replace it to see if that helps.
Really checking the ground location is not the best way to go about checking to see if there is a good ground(because there could be a bad wire), i would disconnect the sensor and use a headlight bulb and connect one terminal to the battery + and the other terminal of the bulb to the wire you want to test for ground, if the bulb is bright the ground is good. If it is not then the ground location would need to be looked at and if that is good the wire would need to be traced and repaired as needed.

B0229 "Recirculate Position Feedback Circuit Range/Performance
Something to do with the heater door flap.

Code:B1259
Modules DRR
Description:Antenna Ground Circuit
https://www.dieselplace.com/forum/76...648-b1259.html

Code:B1372
Modules:BCM
Description. Device Ignition 1 Circuit Low
DTC B1372
Circuit Description
When the ignition switch is in the UNLOCK position, certain class 2 messages do not transmit. The instrument cluster suspends the operation of the indicators and the gauges that are dependent on these messages until the ignition switch is no longer in the UNLOCK position.
DTC Descriptor

This diagnostic procedure supports the following DTC:
DTC B1372 Device Ignition 1 Circuit Range Performance
Conditions for Running the DTC

The ignition is ON.
Conditions for Setting the DTC

There is a difference of at least 75 percent between the ignition 1 voltage circuit and the instrument panel cluster (IPC) battery positive voltage circuit for 3 seconds.
Action Taken When the DTC Sets
The odometer and the PRNDL displays do not illuminate.
The fuel gauge and the engine coolant temperature gauge default to 0.
The scan tool does not communicate with the instrument cluster.
Conditions for Clearing the DTC

Last edited by Rvn4me; 01-25-2020 at 08:14 AM.
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Old 01-26-2020, 07:19 PM   #4 (permalink)
Shortys007
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ump
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Old 01-26-2020, 07:26 PM   #5 (permalink)
Shortys007
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couldnt figure out how to edit above post.

Ron- i do have ALLDATA. Ill have to scroll through some of there stuff regarding this truck.

Rvn- Thank you for providing me with that info, is there parts missing with the rest of your post regarding B1372? it sounds like that may be part of my problem.
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EFI tuned by Kory and Trans built by Mike L
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Old 01-26-2020, 07:35 PM   #6 (permalink)
Shortys007
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nevermind i just found the description on ALLDATA.

Any ideas on where to start with an Ignition 1 voltage circuit being low?
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EFI tuned by Kory and Trans built by Mike L
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Old 02-05-2020, 08:34 PM   #7 (permalink)
Shortys007
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update:

replaced both batteries with brand new for good measure.
replaced the ignition switch, no dice. still wont crank over
figured out that if i hit the dash the shift indicator light will illuminate and reading all gear selections.

Any one have input on where to start next?
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EFI tuned by Kory and Trans built by Mike L
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Old 02-05-2020, 08:37 PM   #8 (permalink)
Shortys007
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also i cleaned all the grounds
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EFI tuned by Kory and Trans built by Mike L
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Old 02-05-2020, 10:34 PM   #9 (permalink)
pj951
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I think you're going to find something related to the fusebox(s) or harness getting pulled by the kid. Look for a bent pin in one of the harness connectors or similar. A ground disconnected. This sounds like human error. Lots of possibilities.

This truck did run at one time, it will run again!
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Last edited by pj951; 02-05-2020 at 10:36 PM.
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Old 02-07-2020, 11:45 PM   #10 (permalink)
Shortys007
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ISSUE RESOLVED

after tracing every wire in the starting circuit, checking continuity and applying 12v to every wire and testing at the receiving ends to confirm wires where not broken internally, checking the fuse box and all its connectors etc.

ended up being the c3 plug on the ECM. it has a broken casing and one side of the slide lock was in the way and the other side was open allowing it to clamp down, power up and operate as if nothing was wrong. moved the slide lock out of the way and reclamped it down. cleared all the codes and the truck cranked over via the key! now time to fix up the fass pump wiring and drive this thing.

Thanks for all the help. hope this helps someone down the road.

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EFI tuned by Kory and Trans built by Mike L
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