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Duramax Second Generation: 2004.5-2005 (LLY) Discuss the second generation (2004.5-2005 LLY) of the 6.6L Duramax diesel engine & associated components. 2006 LLY engine discussion belongs in Third Generation forum due to the differences of the 2006 LLY and the 2004.5-2005 LLY. Engine related discussion ONLY.


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Old 10-07-2019, 08:33 PM   #1 (permalink)
KD4UPL
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Upgraded radiator for LLY?

My '05 has recently started running very hot when towing over mountains. My mechanic mentioned that maybe the radiator was full of sediment and needed to be replaced. If I end up going that route is there a better, higher cooling capacity radiator that would be a direct fit? I'd rather upgrade a bit then just put another OEM radiator back in .
Also, what else should I check? I know LLY's are known for running hot. I've owned this truck since new, put 252,000 miles on it. I've been pulling loads over this same mountain for years and it never got this hot this fast before. The gauge pegged and I got the "engine overheated" message on the DIC. This was with the AC off and the heater running in the cab.

Thanks,

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Old 10-08-2019, 08:16 AM   #2 (permalink)
Rvn4me
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Michigan Oil Burners Member

DIY
https://www.dieselplace.com/forum/71...ng-system.html

https://www.dieselplace.com/forum/63...-solution.html
http://www.maxxtorque.com/2008/07/du...ution-and.html


Last edited by Rvn4me; 10-08-2019 at 08:21 AM.
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Old 10-10-2019, 11:10 AM   #3 (permalink)
terryk
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I have the Ron Davis main radiator and aux. The main radiator is a direct fit with more capacity. However, if it all was fine before and it truly is a clogged radiator (totally possible at this age) why change to something bigger and more expensive? If you take it out and look in the bottom (where the clogging starts), are the tubes covered in sediment? It may be as simple as a new stock radiator.

Beyond that, check the cooling fan clutch. Did it engage? Also, did the trans heat up too (adding heat to the system)?

As for the aux, again, if something changed, fix what changed. If you just want more capacity, then either the Ron Davis aux or the main radiator is where I would start. Frankly, I would install the aux first and only add the main radiator if the stock one was going south AND I had the extra cash to do it. I am not sure of the current prices but $2000 for the pair wouldn't surprise me.
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2005 Chevy Silverado 3500LT SRW D/A CC/LB LLY 4x4 (loaded)
LBZ MP, TxCAI, Stack sealing, Mass/IAT shield, LML manifold
Edge Insight CTS/EGT/EOT
E837 HD Radiator w/EOC + E837 Secondary Cooling Radiator w/fan, factory air dam
Earl's trans cooler, Longs Power Steering Cooler
GM Severe Duty brake rotors (SD suffix)
NuWa Hitchhiker II LS 29.5LKTG 5th Wheel (11klbs)

Last edited by terryk; 10-10-2019 at 11:12 AM.
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Old 10-11-2019, 11:09 AM   #4 (permalink)
terryk
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You should also remove the radiator and intercooler and clean them out. Debris gets stuck in there over time reducing the airflow and cooling. At that point you can check the radiator too.
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2005 Chevy Silverado 3500LT SRW D/A CC/LB LLY 4x4 (loaded)
LBZ MP, TxCAI, Stack sealing, Mass/IAT shield, LML manifold
Edge Insight CTS/EGT/EOT
E837 HD Radiator w/EOC + E837 Secondary Cooling Radiator w/fan, factory air dam
Earl's trans cooler, Longs Power Steering Cooler
GM Severe Duty brake rotors (SD suffix)
NuWa Hitchhiker II LS 29.5LKTG 5th Wheel (11klbs)
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Old 10-11-2019, 01:49 PM   #5 (permalink)
engineer837
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This is not a fix, it is not even a bandaid. This has been proven through data provided by members of this forum.

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Mods: Secondary Cooling System with fan and shroud, Larger custom main radiator equipped with heat exchangers for oil and tranny fluids, Larger transmission cooler, O.E.M. air dam on lower valance, custom larger lower panel, KD custom ECM, EGR blocker, Sun Coast ram air hood, Air Raid intake, AFE turbo MP and downpipe back exhaust, 75Gallon aux tank, Air bags, 6" pro comp lift relaxed to 4", 33x12.5x18" toyo tires, Fully built Transmission by Inglewood Transmissions, Merchant Automotive pump rub plate.


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Old 10-13-2019, 03:12 PM   #6 (permalink)
Chevyman Dan
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Why don't you just upgrade to an LBZ radiator, fan shroud, fan and fan clutch for a 2006-2008. LBZ's never had an issue with running hot, there all factory parts and will bolt right in
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Old 10-14-2019, 11:21 AM   #7 (permalink)
terryk
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No, I believe you can push an LBZ to overheat but they are certainly far better. There are LBZs that installed the secondary radiator.
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2005 Chevy Silverado 3500LT SRW D/A CC/LB LLY 4x4 (loaded)
LBZ MP, TxCAI, Stack sealing, Mass/IAT shield, LML manifold
Edge Insight CTS/EGT/EOT
E837 HD Radiator w/EOC + E837 Secondary Cooling Radiator w/fan, factory air dam
Earl's trans cooler, Longs Power Steering Cooler
GM Severe Duty brake rotors (SD suffix)
NuWa Hitchhiker II LS 29.5LKTG 5th Wheel (11klbs)
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Old 10-14-2019, 02:58 PM   #8 (permalink)
Chevyman Dan
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From what I understand the LLY equipped trucks had the smallest radiators out of all the Duramax pickups. Which is one of the reasons why the LLY's tend to run hotter.
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2004.5 2500HD, LLY, crewcab, 4x4, shortbed
LBZ mouth piece, intake and airbox.
Banks 6 Gun tuner and the PPE fuel rail plug.
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Old 10-14-2019, 05:54 PM   #9 (permalink)
terryk
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I thought the LB7 was the same and that was the issue. They cranked up the power with the LLY but didn't increase the cooling capacity. Alas, this has been beat to death.
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2005 Chevy Silverado 3500LT SRW D/A CC/LB LLY 4x4 (loaded)
LBZ MP, TxCAI, Stack sealing, Mass/IAT shield, LML manifold
Edge Insight CTS/EGT/EOT
E837 HD Radiator w/EOC + E837 Secondary Cooling Radiator w/fan, factory air dam
Earl's trans cooler, Longs Power Steering Cooler
GM Severe Duty brake rotors (SD suffix)
NuWa Hitchhiker II LS 29.5LKTG 5th Wheel (11klbs)

Last edited by terryk; 10-14-2019 at 05:55 PM.
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