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Old 07-27-2014, 12:12 PM   #1 (permalink)
81OldsDsl
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5.7 Diesel IP

I've got a 5.7 Diesel in a Oldsmobile Cutlass. The injection pump was rebuilt in 2008 after the car sat for 15 years. The last year or so it's had a 100 rpm surge in idle.

On July 4th this year it came home on a wrecker. That morning the car was having one heck of a time regulating RPM. It would either idle too slow (and stall) or way too fast.

On the way home was running and then all of a sudden it started to lose rpm and stall going down the road. The engine will start and move the car about 100 feet before quitting again, and it will not idle. It will start and run in the garage with assistant of a foot on the pedal but blows a lot of smoke and quits.

We had it towed home, i changed the fuel pump and lift pump, same issue.

Do you think this is the fault of the injection pump? Before I start taking this massive pain in the butt out. I'm not sure if they updated the Governor assembly inside when they redid the pump....

This car goes to car shows, retains original paint, interior, and one owner.



Last edited by 81OldsDsl; 07-27-2014 at 12:13 PM.
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Old 07-27-2014, 04:07 PM   #2 (permalink)
DieselPro
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Take the return connector out of the top of the pump and knock the check ball out of it and try again.

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Old 07-27-2014, 06:39 PM   #3 (permalink)
57diesel
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Getting a clear chunk of line on the return and looking at what is coming out is an easy place to start. If you are getting bubbles you have to figure out where its getting in. If you are not getting much or anything out then its most likely got an internal blockage.
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98 Burb K25 4.10's 250K miles, new to me, pretty clean and stock.
95 Burb K25 3.73's CRASHED 250K miles, looks to have been rebuilt at least once, stock, bad rust, DE exhaust w/walker muffler, 8' western plow.
81 Buick Riviera GAVE AWAY with the infamous Olds 5.7 diesel possibly still going strong.
15 VW Golf wagon, TDI. Did the buyback on my 13 Jetta TDI wagon so it was basically a trade up.
96 Burb K25 3.42's SOLD at 340K miles, told it was all original, close race between engine wearing out or body completely rust out.
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Old 07-27-2014, 06:53 PM   #4 (permalink)
57diesel
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Reading your post again, changed fuel pump and lift pump? An 81 would only have one pump besides the injection pump and its a classic engine mounted mechanical pump. So was that a typo or are you not that technical yourself and are just passing on what someone else is telling you?

It is a good looking car and likely pretty rare these days, most of the survivors likely got gas engines long before now. 1 owner? Meaning you bought it new?
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98 Burb K25 4.10's 250K miles, new to me, pretty clean and stock.
95 Burb K25 3.73's CRASHED 250K miles, looks to have been rebuilt at least once, stock, bad rust, DE exhaust w/walker muffler, 8' western plow.
81 Buick Riviera GAVE AWAY with the infamous Olds 5.7 diesel possibly still going strong.
15 VW Golf wagon, TDI. Did the buyback on my 13 Jetta TDI wagon so it was basically a trade up.
96 Burb K25 3.42's SOLD at 340K miles, told it was all original, close race between engine wearing out or body completely rust out.
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Old 07-27-2014, 10:40 PM   #5 (permalink)
81OldsDsl
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Yea that was a mistake. It meant to say fuel filter and lift pump. Just trying a few things before I have to pull this pump again. Although, even if I did manager to do something without removing the pump to get it going again i'd have trust issues...

Last edited by 81OldsDsl; 07-27-2014 at 10:41 PM.
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Old 07-27-2014, 11:52 PM   #6 (permalink)
57diesel
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I would explore the return line.

You could have a leak somewhere between the pickup in the tank and the lift pump that is allowing some air in. Its under suction there so you may not be seeing it, its just enough to let some air in with every 'suck' pulse of the lift pump. Air in the injection pump will make them do wacky things since all the internal workings are basically hydraulic and based on fuel pressure. Since its all based on pressure if the return is blocked it won't work either. If you pinch off the return line engine will quit. Normally what blocks up the return is that ring coming apart.
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98 Burb K25 4.10's 250K miles, new to me, pretty clean and stock.
95 Burb K25 3.73's CRASHED 250K miles, looks to have been rebuilt at least once, stock, bad rust, DE exhaust w/walker muffler, 8' western plow.
81 Buick Riviera GAVE AWAY with the infamous Olds 5.7 diesel possibly still going strong.
15 VW Golf wagon, TDI. Did the buyback on my 13 Jetta TDI wagon so it was basically a trade up.
96 Burb K25 3.42's SOLD at 340K miles, told it was all original, close race between engine wearing out or body completely rust out.
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Old 07-28-2014, 10:36 AM   #7 (permalink)
JCDiesel
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Flex ring? Not sure how original you want to keep the car but that box filter is worthless. Outlet is lower than in so no water trapping capability. Id install a 10 micron spin on racor filter with a bleed valve. Nice car.
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81 Chevette factory 1.8 Isuzu diesel 24,000 miles
82 Park Ave. 5.7 DX Stock with Stanadyne FWS and Filtermag
81 Riviera 5.7 Donor vehicle for The 82 Park Ave Compliments of 57Diesel
91 Suburban 2500 4x4 6.2 Bad Transmission
85 Cadillac Deville factory 4.3 Oldsmobile Diesel
91 GMC Sierra K1500 6.2 NA Plow truck with 7.5ft Leo Plow
94 K3500 CC DRW 6.5TD DE exhaust Custom Parker Racor Fuel Filter assembly
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Even the guys who own them aren't 5.7 guys.
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Old 09-20-2014, 05:29 PM   #8 (permalink)
81OldsDsl
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Got the pump rebuilt, it shattered inside so bad it had to have a whole new housing. I've talked about putting a fake battery in the car and the water separator hiding in it to keep the original look.

The problem I'm having is I got the rebuilt pump in. I have fuel right to the pump. The return line drips fuel slowly while cranking... (should be a stream I would think). Cylinder 4 is the only one getting fuel. Any ideas?
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Old 09-21-2014, 09:51 AM   #9 (permalink)
JCDiesel
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Water separator is important with your 5.7 I understand its a show car so thats a tough one. I wouldn't run with only one battery this will be very hard on the direct drive starter and your glow system. Anyways how are you bleeding your fuel system? You have all the glow plugs out? Do you have the injector lines cracked a tad? It will take some cranking sessions to get fuel to all the injectors. Rest the starter to not burn it up. Once fuel is running from the lines at the injectors tighten them up then crank a few more times until good mist is coming from the glow plug holes. Install your plugs and fire it up. Its debatable whether or not you need to crack the lines open but I like to. Bleeding air with mechanical lift 6.2 - YouTube
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81 Chevette factory 1.8 Isuzu diesel 24,000 miles
82 Park Ave. 5.7 DX Stock with Stanadyne FWS and Filtermag
81 Riviera 5.7 Donor vehicle for The 82 Park Ave Compliments of 57Diesel
91 Suburban 2500 4x4 6.2 Bad Transmission
85 Cadillac Deville factory 4.3 Oldsmobile Diesel
91 GMC Sierra K1500 6.2 NA Plow truck with 7.5ft Leo Plow
94 K3500 CC DRW 6.5TD DE exhaust Custom Parker Racor Fuel Filter assembly
Quote:
Originally Posted by alpacalips View Post
Even the guys who own them aren't 5.7 guys.

Last edited by JCDiesel; 09-21-2014 at 09:53 AM.
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Old 09-21-2014, 02:28 PM   #10 (permalink)
81OldsDsl
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Putting a water separator was my winter project for it. I'm not going to do it if I can't get it to start. I'm even threatening the diesel with the olds 350 rocket I have sitting next to the car...

I guess I don't understand why I'm only getting a few drips at the return line as much cranking as I've done. We're talking a drip every 5 seconds. All of the fuel is going to cylinder 4 with the other lines completely dry. I do have the lines cracked except, I did tighten #4 after I saw fuel. There seems to be quite a bit of pressure at the useless box filter.

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