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All Other GM Diesels Discuss any other GM Diesel engines... 5.7l Olds, Chevette Diesel, or anything else that doesn't fit anywhere else...

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Old 06-30-2013, 03:57 PM   #1 (permalink)
jjyynnxx
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proud new owner... help with intake?

so i bought a 1982 sedan cadillac deville... so far i've changed the belts, batteries and oil.... while doing my research on these engines i came across this modification (i forget where i found it, but i emailed myself the list without the link):

9. This step is very important. With the air filter removed, fabricate a block off plate out of at least 3/4 inch plywood that totally covers the intake. If your engine has the EGR installed in the center of the intake, then you will have to cut out a hole to accomodate the valve. Make sure when you are finished that the plate totally covers the intake and prevents any significant air from entering the engine. The reason for this is simple. If you have not re-installed the dome on the IP properly or the IP is siezed, you run the risk of engine runaway. If this happens, nothing you do with the fuel or ignition key will stop it in time. That means you have to cut off the engines air supply. The plate has to be strong, ergo the 3/4 inch ply. A 5.7 liter engine turning at 4,000 RPMs makes for a very effective vacuum cleaner.

i suck at abbreviations...what does "IP" mean? i'm assuming Intake something? and when it covers the intake...do i cover the top of the filter? what if i just block off the EGR? any help is greatly appreciated!!

and i know i should change the fuel filter to a water/fuel separator filter... but any recommendations? (not to expensive)

thanks again

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Old 06-30-2013, 06:06 PM   #2 (permalink)
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That's presumably a post-IP (injection pump) install precaution...something to have prepared before restarting the engine for the first time after swapping the IP.

If a diesel starts to runaway, the only way to kill it is to completely remove its air supply. This block off plate accomplishes that - its only necessary after working on the IP, or anything else that could be suspect for engine runaway on the first restart.

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Mark - Courtice, Ontario, Canada.
SOLD: '97 C3500 Crew Cab Long Box Dually 6.5 Turbo Diesel.
Rebuilt with Navistar 506 block spring 2012
Special thanks to Racer55 and WhiteK2500 for their invaluable assistance!
Helping a friend: Duckies Longarm Quilting Oshawa / Durham Region!
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Old 07-02-2013, 02:05 AM   #3 (permalink)
jjyynnxx
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oh ok awesome so since i bought it running i don't have to worry about it... any suggestions for a fuel/water separator? thanks for your help...i'll post some pics probably sometime this week
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Old 07-02-2013, 10:35 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Racor is a popular brand of filter that are available in all sorts of shapes and sizes. I think there is a 80's vintage VW one that is still available and not too expensive. I bought a Racor one when I first got my first 5.7 car a few years ago but its still sitting on the table I set it on the day I took it out of the box. I regularly check for water and so far have not seen any signs of any in any of my diesel toys so I sort of lost the ambition to figure out a way to mount the thing. I have an Eldorado so things are a little more cramped under the hood than the RWD cars.

The fuel return line in these cars is in the very bottom of the fuel tank and the pickup is about 2 gallons higher. This was their idea of a water separation system. The idea was 2 gallons of water was plenty of capacity to get the average owner between oil changes so when it was in for the oil change the dealer would drain the tank. Guess in the early days 2 gallons was not enough. The dealer manuals say there was a some sort of pressure pump that attached to the filler and they would disconnect the return line and the pressure would push the water through the return. The way I check for water is to disconnect the return line up between the engine and frame and hook up a manual hand pump brake bleeder. The little jar in the kit collects the fuel and then its nice and easy to see if there is any water in it. If not its easy to dump back in the tank. If you are not sure what water looks like in diesel you can just add a bit and see but don't put that back.

An engine can pull pretty hard on the intake side. For some stupid reason one time I had mine running and decided to put my hand over the inlet snorkel thing on the side of the air cleaner assembly. Before I knew what happened the entire air cleaner assembly was completely crushed and destroyed. I imagine if that assembly had not failed and likely lost the suction my hand would not have been in good shape.
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95 Burb K25 3.73's CRASHED 250K miles, looks to have been rebuilt at least once, stock, bad rust, DE exhaust w/walker muffler, 8' western plow.
81 Buick Riviera GAVE AWAY with the infamous Olds 5.7 diesel possibly still going strong.
15 VW Golf wagon, TDI. Did the buyback on my 13 Jetta TDI wagon so it was basically a trade up.
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Old 07-03-2013, 02:17 AM   #5 (permalink)
jjyynnxx
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hmmm interesting... i think that sounds like what happen to me if i buy one... but checking for water doesn't seem to bad especially with the instructions you gave..hmmmm gonna have to do some thinking asap...i actually drove it today around the block for 30 mins... ran beautiful and smooth... do you use stanadyne to put in the gas tank or do you use another brand? i can't seem to find stanadyne in my local parts stores (napa, autozone), i see that i can purchase it online anyone got a reputable source?
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Old 07-03-2013, 10:35 AM   #6 (permalink)
57diesel
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I bought a couple bottles of the Stanadyne stuff from the diesel shop when I had them rebuild my pump but have not used it since. One nice thing about the Stanadyne stuff is the bottle is a nice size so its easy to pour into the tank without making a mess. Many of the other bottles are an odd shape that makes them difficult to get in a typical automotive filler on the side or back of the car. They would be fine if we all drove diesel tractors with the filler on top.

I have been using 'power service' brand in my stuff. They have 3 varieties red, silver, and white. The red is the 911 and that is a fix for a problem formula and should not be used all the time, I keep a bottle of that stuff in all my diesels that I run in the winter just in case I have a freeze up. The silver and white are the same except for the white has anti gelling stuff in it. The sliver is cheaper so I run that in the summer. All the additives seem very similar if you spill them. They all smell and feel similar so I suspect their key ingredients are pretty close. The diesel shop told me its not critical to use them but they sure don't hurt.

With additives make sure you get all the foil off the bottle before you pour. I have heard stories of pickup tubes clogged with bits of foil that fell off bottles.

I love that era Cadillac's, especially diesels. I have my eye on another one now just don't know where I can park it or when I would ever have time to drive it.

I have the 6.5 section bookmarked so I forget to check here but I will try to remember to keep an eye out for more questions and help if I can.

What part of the world you in?
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98 Burb K25 4.10's 250K miles, new to me, pretty clean and stock.
95 Burb K25 3.73's CRASHED 250K miles, looks to have been rebuilt at least once, stock, bad rust, DE exhaust w/walker muffler, 8' western plow.
81 Buick Riviera GAVE AWAY with the infamous Olds 5.7 diesel possibly still going strong.
15 VW Golf wagon, TDI. Did the buyback on my 13 Jetta TDI wagon so it was basically a trade up.
96 Burb K25 3.42's SOLD at 340K miles, told it was all original, close race between engine wearing out or body completely rust out.
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Old 07-05-2013, 10:23 PM   #7 (permalink)
jjyynnxx
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i live in Spring Valley, NY... i bought the car in PA...drove it 2.5 hrs home...made it...with little issues but i didn't push it at all... cruised all the way home... i could see some smoke while driving home but nothing crazy seemed like old fuel more than anything... and when i drove it the other day it ran like a champ but i was still paranoid...i can tell i need a new relay cause it makes a noise like its turning off and on and after the car starts it still makes that noise... which leaves me to my next question... since its not winter do i still have to wait the 10 sec. for the glow plugs before i turn the ignition switch? or can i just turn it on without waiting the 10 sec? thanks for your help =)
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Old 07-05-2013, 10:26 PM   #8 (permalink)
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The glow system is still fairly essential even in the summer months. You won't hurt anything by cranking immediately, but it probably won't start until the glowplugs make some heat anyways, so all you'll accomplish is depleting your batteries more and adding a bit of extra wear and tear on the starter.

As for the glowplug relay cycling on and off after startup, that's normal for about 30 seconds - it's called afterglow and helps cylinders stabilize as well as helps minimize emissions on cold starts.
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Mark - Courtice, Ontario, Canada.
SOLD: '97 C3500 Crew Cab Long Box Dually 6.5 Turbo Diesel.
Rebuilt with Navistar 506 block spring 2012
Special thanks to Racer55 and WhiteK2500 for their invaluable assistance!
Helping a friend: Duckies Longarm Quilting Oshawa / Durham Region!

Last edited by PrivatePilot; 07-05-2013 at 11:08 PM.
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Old 07-05-2013, 10:28 PM   #9 (permalink)
jjyynnxx
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oh so it should sound like its turning off and on? when it does this the interior lights dim a bit and go with the sound...i figured it meant that the relay was on its way out
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Old 07-05-2013, 10:44 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Glowplugs draw about 10-15 amps each, so if all 8 are working the draw can be in the range of 100 amps. Seeing your interior lights dimming during the afterglow cycle is actually a good thing since it means most of your GP's are probably actually alive and functioning.

Of course this afterglow process should end within a minute or so after a cold start. If it continues past that something is wrong.

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Mark - Courtice, Ontario, Canada.
SOLD: '97 C3500 Crew Cab Long Box Dually 6.5 Turbo Diesel.
Rebuilt with Navistar 506 block spring 2012
Special thanks to Racer55 and WhiteK2500 for their invaluable assistance!
Helping a friend: Duckies Longarm Quilting Oshawa / Durham Region!

Last edited by PrivatePilot; 07-05-2013 at 10:45 PM.
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