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All Other GM Diesels Discuss any other GM Diesel engines... 5.7l Olds, Chevette Diesel, or anything else that doesn't fit anywhere else...

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Old 11-18-2009, 07:41 AM   #1 (permalink)
odgs455
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bulletproof 350 DX ?

Hi,
I bought a couple of months ago a '82 custom cruiser which has the DX diesel engine in it. I did some research to see what kind of improvements I can easally do in order to get that engine reliable. Ok I can't change to a 6.2 : off budget here ...france (or if some of you have a good 6.2 and is willing to send it over...).
Anyway , for know I've added a water-fuel separator which I put between the fuel tank and the low pressure pump, a 160C thermostat, glow plug and new controler (plus a manual switch to get easy starts when the car isn't warm or cold enough, no more than 5sec !!) and external engine oil cooler.
The next step will be to have my injectors checked, by the way where can I get all the gaskets related to that ? where can I source injectors , headgaskets, pumps and other parts for that engine ? is a 6.2l pump the same ?
thanks for helping

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Old 11-18-2009, 09:28 AM   #2 (permalink)
bk95td
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A place called oliver diesel had some new 5.7 parts when Ilooked at their site a while back. They also had parts for the 4.3 diesel also.
If you use ac g60 glow plugs you don't need to worry about burning them out. They are self regulating. Bosch duratherms are the same way.
Not shure about a 6.2 injection pump working on a 5.7. I believe they both used the stanadyne db2 pumps. Not shure if mounting is the same.

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Old 11-18-2009, 10:43 AM   #3 (permalink)
hre513
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Pumps are different. DX is pretty bulletproof by itself. Only real weakness is head bolts. I had one in a 78 chevy pickup and worked it pretty good. Only problem i had was it broke the head off a head bolt and blew the gasket. Put new gaskets and head bolts on and ran perfect. It had sat for 12 years when I first got it and it fired right up. I didn't check anything, just changed oil and trans fluid.
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Old 11-18-2009, 07:35 PM   #4 (permalink)
rmay635703
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hre513 View Post
Pumps are different. DX is pretty bulletproof by itself. Only real weakness is head bolts. I had one in a 78 chevy pickup and worked it pretty good. Only problem i had was it broke the head off a head bolt and blew the gasket. Put new gaskets and head bolts on and ran perfect. It had sat for 12 years when I first got it and it fired right up. I didn't check anything, just changed oil and trans fluid.
I wonder if that was the place that had complete rebuild long block 5.7, 2.8 and 4.3 diesels? I would have loved to drop a 4.3 or even a 2.8ltr when the motor blew on the 98 buick, they had some FWD Oldsmobile diesels as well sadly I couldn't find it then (about 4yrs ago)

Any ideas? My father always wanted a 350 diesel to drop in his 350 gasser suburban, underpowered but probably OK mileage.

Last edited by rmay635703; 11-18-2009 at 07:36 PM.
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Old 11-19-2009, 03:49 AM   #5 (permalink)
odgs455
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hre513 View Post
Pumps are different. DX is pretty bulletproof by itself. Only real weakness is head bolts. I had one in a 78 chevy pickup and worked it pretty good. Only problem i had was it broke the head off a head bolt and blew the gasket. Put new gaskets and head bolts on and ran perfect. It had sat for 12 years when I first got it and it fired right up. I didn't check anything, just changed oil and trans fluid.

is it possible to change the head bolts, one at the time with say ARP bolts or studs ?. I don't want to remove the heads (only if I need to).
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Old 11-20-2009, 12:15 PM   #6 (permalink)
chevyinlinesix
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People change the head bolts one at a time with ARP studs on other engines with success. Removing one bolt at a time, in reverse of the torque sequence would be the best, and only way to do it in my opinion.
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Old 11-23-2009, 04:08 AM   #7 (permalink)
odgs455
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Originally Posted by chevyinlinesix View Post
Removing one bolt at a time, in reverse of the torque sequence would be the best, and only way to do it in my opinion.

do you mean untorquing all the bolts say to 80, then removing only one, retorquing it to 80, then when all is done , torquing all the bolts back to the correct torque ?
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Old 11-23-2009, 11:21 AM   #8 (permalink)
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I'm pretty sure you only loosen one at a time. Keep the rest at factory torque.
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Old 11-23-2009, 11:23 AM   #9 (permalink)
chevyinlinesix
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Not exactly, I mean remove bolt #1 and replace with head stud, then torque the stud down. Then remove bolt #2 and replace with head stud, then torque down. Do this for all the bolts, in the proper order.

The idea is to keep maximum clamping pressure on the heads, while not warping them. This is why you are taking out one bolt at a time, and also why you are reversing the torque pattern.
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Old 11-25-2009, 10:51 PM   #10 (permalink)
jlawles2
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Personal Preference would be to have the 6.2 to put in a burban. My mom had a 79 olds with a 350 diesel in it. Great fuel mileage when loaded, otherwise ok. Only issues were bad pumps (had the rousa master) when water got in the fuel. GM put a water in fuel sensor on it after the first one went out.

The heads are known to crack between the valves (that is what we were told after a long block install). Also the 350's had an injector that was completely different by design. They did change the design at some point, but I think it was the retainer not the injector that changed.

Oh yeah, the return lines are junk. After you installed them, they could not be reused.

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