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Frankenstein Did you put a 6.5 in a Camaro? A Duramax in a boat? A Cummins in a Chevy? A Powerstroke in a van? Then you must have a touch of the good Dr. Frankenstein. Post your stories, questions, discussions in here... this is intended to be a place to discuss your questions on how to, what to do, etc...

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Old 11-08-2017, 02:55 PM   #1 (permalink)
Kriesel
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Location: Afton, MN
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Kriesel Diesel

Suburban background:
Previous to this truck, we had a Ď94 chevy, K3500 crew cab dually, and it had a cummins 12-valve swap. The truck was huge, and kind of a hassle to drive. The steering was loose, doors were a little loose, and a stick shift (which I love). My wife said that she would prefer to drive something smaller, and with an automatic transmission. My response was that the only diesel vehicle I would want an automatic behind would be something with an allison transmission. So, we settled upon a duraburb swap, after lots of thinking. When looking into suburbans to purchase, we test drove a local quadrasteer version, and fell in love with it. But it was pretty rusted, and so I passed on that one. I ended up finding our suburban on eBay, and bought it sight unseen. I was less worried about the cash transaction with eBayís scam protection, but still worried I would get a truck shipped to my door that was crap.
01 by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

05 by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

24 by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

But, the shipping company dropped off a running/driving suburban, and it was really nice and clean, and rust free, coming out of southern California (compared to vehicles I'm used to seeing in Minnesota... lol).

Loaded up in Cali:
IMG_1410[1] by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Delivered to me:
IMG_1414[1] by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Right after getting it, the cluster died... Completely. Tried to replace the voltage regulator, but it still didn't work:
IMG_2154 by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

IMG_1533[1] by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Ended up switching to a used cluster, and had to then replace all the stepper motors and light bulbs:
IMG_2162 by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

The same summer I bought it, I also had a shop spray the entire under side of the truck with bedliner, and up around the rocker a few inches:
IMG_2187 by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

IMG_2189 by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Since buying it, I've put about 50k miles on it, driving like crazy. It's been my wife's daily driver. I love TestDrive's example, that the wife let me tear into her daily driver! I replaced the stereo with a better one with a DVD player because the rear DVD didn't work, and I tied the two together. The Quadrasteer is amazing! Has a better turning radius the our VW Jetta! Love this truck, use it for everything!

In the meantime, I've kept my eye out for just the right donor truck. I wanted to be picky, so an LBZ was my only choice. I wanted the benefits that it brings over previous models. If I'm going through with this, I wanted to do it "right" the first time. So, I passed over a lot of trucks with other engines. I found one guy locally with rolled over truck, 2007 classic body, and he wanted an astronomical amount, even for a rolled over truck. Hadn't really had any good luck finding a cheap donor. Until...

Donor prep:
A good friend of mine (Thanks GreenGeeker) tipped me off to this truck on Craigslist, located near his home which is about 45 minutes away from my home. The truck is a 2006 Chevrolet Silverado 3500, crew cab, long box. It is a salvage title, and was in damaged form when I picked it up. The truck went off the road and hit some trees, damaging the bed, the rear corner of the cab on the driverís side, and the fender on the driverís side. Under the hood, the fender and hood crunched the fuse block, but generally the fuses (and the actual fuse block) and electrical plugs were ok, broke the plastic end cap of the radiator, broke the driverís tie-rod, broke the cooling fan shrouds, broke the lower charge air cooler hose. The truck was pretty rusty being from Minnesota. I had a heck of a time removing body panels and such, for example, had to cut the bed mounts off pretty much since the not all of the bolts would come loose.
IMG_4194 by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

IMG_4196 by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

A lot of the panels on my donor were wrecked. I removed all the body panels on the front of the truck, and also removed the bed of the truck (which was also wrecked. The donor I have was driven off the road into some trees, and so the bed, cab, drivers side fender, and hood were all destroyed. I used a snowmobile trailer to offload all the busted up parts, and will eventually bring the pile to the metal recycler. Along with the fender removal, the batteries and some other various things get removed as well (batteries, coolant overflow bottle, etc.)

Removing the bed:
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Front panels removed:
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Removed the cooling package:
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Getting things dismounted from the engine on the driver's side:
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Everything dismounted on the passenger side:
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Engine pretty much ready to pull out:
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Removed the 4wd switch and cluster from the donor. I set these aside for now:
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Removed the 4wd controller, right behind this arrow:
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Unplug it, and it pops out of it's black plastic holder:
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Unplug the shift lever:
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Unbolt shift lever:
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Set aside for now:
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Removed the accelerator pedal, and pulled the plug through the firewall. Set aside for now:
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Removed two-piece driveshaft:
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

I removed most of the body harness, in order to pull out the wires needed for the swap:
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

With the cab out of the way, I removed the transfer case:
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

I opened up the transfer case to install a pump rub kit (got mine from Merchant Automotive). Here is a pic of the area behind the clip that rubs against the housing of the transfer case:
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Overall view of the area of the pump:
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

The oem pump:
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

The MA kit:
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

__________________
'03 Quadrasteer Burb 2500 - 2006 LBZ swap
'06 VW TDI - Malone tuned, stage 2 SMF clutch, stock otherwise
'97 Cherokee - Cummins Swap
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Old 11-08-2017, 02:56 PM   #2 (permalink)
Kriesel
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Kit installed:
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Be sure to put the clip back in place:
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Next up was EGR delete. I took off the intake and EGR to clean up the intake of soot, and ultimately remove the EGR system. This is the level of soot buildup in the intake:
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

EGR removed:
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

EGR block-off plates installed:
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Removing the donor's twisted pair wires (tan wires) from the ALDL port:
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Removing the twisted pair (tan wires) from the C100 plug, which is normally located under the fuse block in the engine bay:
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

In the same fashion, I removed the dark blue wire from the C100 plug which is for the glow plug light on the cluster:
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

I then removed the same dark blue wire from the plug at the back of the dash cluster:
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Remove the purple wire from the C100 plug for the tap shifter:
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Undo the tap shfit harness under the steering column:
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Can't find the pictures of removing the other wires for the shifter...

I ordred a 3" x 24" rod of plastic from McMaster-Carr:
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Plan to cut it down for the body mounts. I'm going to install a 2" lift all around, initially. I will possibly cut these 2" pucks down to the tapered lift, once the swap is completed...
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

My oil pan on the LBZ looks to be leaking pretty heavily. I'll take it apart and clean it, and reseal it:
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

The oil pressure sensor is also leaking, but I'll replace it at a later date. The pressure gauge reads correctly, so I'll just do it later on...
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Begin the process of removing the pan, starter out. Can see some wetness behind the starter as well:
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

With the transmission off, this is hard to see, but the rear main seal was dry as a bone and not leaking anything:
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

See more of the oil leak:
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Remove the bolts on the upper oil pan (this is how I did it without removing the flywheel):
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

I didn't take any pictures of fully removing the oil pans and cleaning them up... Not sure why, but it was pretty messy. I re-did the gasket on both the upper and lower oil pans. It was clear that they were both leaking, so I'm glad this is done now.

__________________
'03 Quadrasteer Burb 2500 - 2006 LBZ swap
'06 VW TDI - Malone tuned, stage 2 SMF clutch, stock otherwise
'97 Cherokee - Cummins Swap
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Old 11-08-2017, 02:58 PM   #3 (permalink)
Kriesel
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When removing the lower engine mount brackets from the frame, the bolts ALL snapped off... With the brackets off, I was able to weld on a nut to the bottom side of the bolts, and twist them the other direction to remove them from the bracket, thus not needing to drill/retap/buy new bracket/etc.
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

With the engine out of the engine bay, I figured it was my best opportunity to install exhaust temp sensor:
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Noticed a small coolant leak on the side of the transmission, so bought a new gasket and redid this:
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Re-installed the transmission and transfer case:
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Pushed the frame of the donor outside:
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Suburban prep:

Brought the suburban in:
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Removed front grill of the suburban:
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Removing AC lines:
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Unplugging the fuse block:
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Disconnecting the driver's side components. As you can maybe see, I've left the fenders on, and did so for the entire swap.
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Drain the antifreeze:
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Remove the cooling package from the suburban:
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

View of some of the chaos in my garage:
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Things undone in the engine bay:
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

I went to remove the coolant lines at the firewall and broke one of the Tees. Come to figure out, it had been leaking slowly for a while as well, so it was time to get new ones anyway:
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Yank the engine/transmission/transfer case out. Left the body on, but lifted the front of the body about 4-6 inches with a couple wood blocks as a makeshift "body lift".
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

The two engine on the floor:
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

The differences between the 6.0L and 6.6L lower engine mounts (aka: frame side):
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Removed the steering stabilizer from the donor:
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Installed the steering stabilizer on the suburban. All the mounting holes were already there...
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

With the body still on, I put the duramax in place. I did so with the transmission and transfer case all mounted to the engine. I purchase new chains, and worked slow, and got it in just fine. All the weight added together, from values that I found around the internet, the cherry picker I have was capable, so I wasn't too worried. I was super nervous though, because someone else on this forum dropped an engine on the floor the day before I did this, and so I was dreading dropping this drivetrain as well, but it went smooth. At the point in this picture, the transmission cross-member is removed as well:
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Here is the difference in transmission cross-members. The more rusty one is the duramax one.
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

I drilled new holes for the cross-member, about 1" to the rear of the gasser holes, mounted the cross-member, and installed the suburban's funky L-bracket, not sure what it's for... The donor didn't have the bracket.
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr
__________________
'03 Quadrasteer Burb 2500 - 2006 LBZ swap
'06 VW TDI - Malone tuned, stage 2 SMF clutch, stock otherwise
'97 Cherokee - Cummins Swap
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Old 11-08-2017, 02:59 PM   #4 (permalink)
Kriesel
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I dropped the front fuel tank on the suburban to remove the fuel pump assembly. I purchased an LB7 assembly for my use, because the LB7 fits the mounting hole for the suburban. Here is the two sending units side by side, the newer looking one is obviously the brand new LB7 unit.
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

The LB7 middle hose needs to be drilled out for the rear tank to have somewhere to go at the front tank:
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

I took apart the LB7 unit, cut down the shafts, re-welded them to the correct heights, and re-installed them. I also cut the springs down too.
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

I then bent the float rod on the LB7 unit to match the suburban's original orientation as best as I could for empty and full:
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

The LB7 sending unit uses a different style plug than the LBZ and the suburban's unit. Looking around online, I found a part number for the LB7 plug. I called the dealer, and they said they can get one. But, while I was at the same time looking at the part number somewhere online, it said that the plug kit was used in various locations, one being the oxygen sensor plugs. So, I grabbed the exhaust off the gasser from the scrap pile, looked at the oxygen sensors, and sure enough it was the correct plug! So, I robbed a plug off the oxygen sensor from there, and spliced it into the suburban's fuel sending unit plug instead. Also, the finished product of the LB7 sending unit has hoses going down. Forgot to take a picture with the hoses installed:
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Ohms at empty:
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Ohms at full:
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

On the passenger side of the engine, I needed to tap the hole for the wire loom. The hole was there, but it wasn't threaded like on the donor:
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Started cutting down the body mount plastic and drilling a hole in the middle of each puck:
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

New bolts for the body mounts, 2" longer. Bought mine from Fastenol. Grade 10.9, M12x1.75x170:
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Here is the 3" downpipe I bought. I had to mount it after putting the engine into the suburban, due to the lift points I used being in the way of the downpipe and passenger uppipe.
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

I researched a lot of mufflers, and ended up settling on the DroneBuster. But I was torn due to the price of it. I really want to not have drone noise inside the suburban, due to this being our daily driver for all family needs. I was talking to a friend of mine, and he had a client at his shop who wanted a quiet muffler as well, and they went through like six mufflers before making the client happy. He said they ended up using this big honkin Donaldson thing from Ryder Feet Products (link here to the muffler I bought) Here is the muffler I used, shown next to the suburban muffler, in all of it's 51" of glory:
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

I used an MBRP crew cab long box kit I think, and ended up with these pipes left over. The muffler is super long though, so once mounted, it is almost touching the crossmember for the torsion bars, and the rear of the muffler is right at the curve of the pipe that goes over the rear axle. It's tight, but actually fits nice up in there:
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

I did not drop the rear tank, but used the internal pump to drain the gasoline out of it. I jumpered the relay, and used a 14v cordless drill battery to power it up and pump fuel:
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr
__________________
'03 Quadrasteer Burb 2500 - 2006 LBZ swap
'06 VW TDI - Malone tuned, stage 2 SMF clutch, stock otherwise
'97 Cherokee - Cummins Swap

Last edited by Kriesel; 11-08-2017 at 03:03 PM.
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Old 11-08-2017, 03:00 PM   #5 (permalink)
Kriesel
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Switched the lug on the outer edge of the fuse block:
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Cooling fan mounted again. The shroud around it was broken on the donor, so I found a good one on eBay:
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

New radiator also mounted to the core support (old one damaged).
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Removed the wire harness off of the duramax core support and re-installed the wire harness from the suburban. The suburban one has two airbag sensors:
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Set the cooling package onto the suburban:
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

2" pucks in place so that the cooling fan lines up with the cooling package's fan shroud:
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

The suburban 4wd switch uses more wires than the duramax, so I undid the plug and switched plugs to match the 4wd switch from the donor:
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Re-installed the 4wd switch:
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Re-installed the donor's 4wd switch controller:
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Re-installed the accelerator pedal. Here are the gasser and diesel ones next to each other:
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

After installing the diesel accelerator pedal, I ran the wire harness through the firewall, and plugged it into the suburban's cruise control module. Then I had this extra plug laying around from the engine ecm, and I thought it plugged into the other side of the cruise control module. At this point it was like 1am, and my brain was fried, and I just for the life of me could NOT figure this out... After hunting around a bit, it dawned on me that I do not plug into the suburban's module, and plug the accelerator pedal directly into the engine's harness...
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Re-installed the shift lever, here are the two next to each other:
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Changed the shift plate on the side of the steering column, the one on the left is the gasser, one on the right is the diesel:
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

New driveshaft made. It's about one inch shorter than the suburban shaft, joint-to-joint. The shiny one is the new one:
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

The surburban's shaft was made in china, and the driveshaft guy said it was poorly balanced... I hadn't been able to pinpoint a vibration I had in the rear end, so I'm assuming it was the shaft at this point. Here is a label that was on the rear driveshaft:
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

On the C100 plug in the suburban, I removed these two wires to make room for the twisted pair communication wires:
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Re-installed the twisted pair wires:
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Took out this yellow wire:
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Moved the yellow wire over a couple holes to match the yellow wire on the engine harness:
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Reconnect everything on the driver's side of the engine:
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Reconnect everything on passenger side of the engine:
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

My attempt at re-wiring the ignition 1 relay (more on this later). Constant 12v to the orange wire of the relay, and run the grey wire to the grey wire on the C2 plug (shown below):
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Constant power to the orange wires for the transmission, and the grey wire from the ignition 1 relay to the grey wire on the C2 plug:
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

On the oil pan, I installed a Fumoto valve in place of the drain plug. I've been using these for a few years on other vehicles, and I like them a lot:
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

New Tees for the coolant lines at the firewall. Cut and connected the EGR cooler blue hose (this blue hose came in the EGR delete kit) to a cut up piece from the suburban cooling line connected to the white tee. The duramax cooling lines don't fit on the suburban's Tee. Also cut the duramax line and connected to the other black tee using the suburban connector again...

This is about where my current picture end.

I filled the entire thing with fluids. I think I used like 5 gallons of coolant. Refilled the power steering fluid (oh, forgot to mention that I took the power steering cooling off the suburban cooling package and installed it on the duramax cooling package). Filled the transfer case with about 2 quarts of fluid. Filled the engine with about 9-10 quarts, and also change the filter. I changed the external filter on the transmission, and drained the tranny fluid. I made the mistake of not filling the filter up before installing, so it had a bunch of air to clear out, as well as the tranny cooler being empty, it also had even more air to clear out... In the end, I put in almost 15 quarts of tranny fluid! oof

With the suburban fuse block installed, and my ignition 1 relay re-wired, if I turned the key, the glow plugs seemed to be cycling power on/off, and the ignition 1 relay was clicking on/off constantly with the key in the ignition turned to on... So, I had no real attempt at doing the field relearn on the ecm. So I took out my soldered ignition 1 relay, and tried the field relearn. It didn't work.

So I switched back to the truck fuse block, put a normal relay in the ignition 1 relay spot, and did the field relearn. It worked!! Success! The engine fired right up, here is the first start:

So, at this point, I have the truck fuse block still in. I also have not yet done anything with EFILive to fix the fuel gauge. I have also not changed the fuel fill neck. I put about 10 gallons of diesel in it with a jerry can, and have driven it to work all week this week (about a 10-mile round trip each day).

First impressions this week:
This thing is AWESOME! It's such a huge difference compared to the gas engine!! So crazy! Way quieter than I thought it would be. The muffler I picked seems to have no drone inside the truck going down the road at 65mph. I haven't been out on the interstate yet to go faster.

Tap shift works. Glow plug light works (it's below freezing here now). Transmission gear indicator works. So, I wired all that stuff correctly. Fuel gauge just shows empty, but I half expected it not to do anything. But, I'm also curious is the stepper motor might be bad as well. I don't have any check engine light lit up, but again, I need to plug in my scan tool to double check.

The air bag light is lit, but I'm still using the donor fuse block. Quadrasteer also isn't on right now, also assuming due to the wrong fuse block at the moment.

The muffler is QUIET! But at startup and shutdown, the muffler hits the heat shield in one spot, so I need to bend/push/clearance the heat shield out of the way a little. Also, there is a whistle in the exhaust or intake, and I've read it likely the blocker plate for the EGR delete. So I'll re-tighten those, and re-seal them if needed.

Otherwise, everything at the moment seems great! I need to switch fuse blocks again and figure out what I did on the ignition 1 relay. Need to change the fuel fill neck soon so I can stop using a jerry can to fill with diesel.

And then drive it!

A huge thank you to everyone on this forum for your help, directly or indirectly. I read and re-read many times, and copy/pasted notes from this forum, and have a 77 page pdf of all the notes I could muster up from everyone here, so that I had it on one easy to find document. I might share that mess with dropbox or something. Thank you TestDrive for the call, but also thank you for your build thread, as it gave me, and my wife, the inspiration to tear apart her daily driver.

I'll update here when I fix little things, and update more of it. I've driven about 30 miles so far, and all is good!
__________________
'03 Quadrasteer Burb 2500 - 2006 LBZ swap
'06 VW TDI - Malone tuned, stage 2 SMF clutch, stock otherwise
'97 Cherokee - Cummins Swap

Last edited by Kriesel; 11-08-2017 at 03:10 PM.
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Old 11-09-2017, 11:33 AM   #6 (permalink)
Camaroz1985
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Congrats, and thanks for the detailed post on what you did. Its a good feeling when it all just works first try, and that seems to be pretty much what you have. The little things will seem like nothing to fix compared to what you have already done.

Would love to see your pdf of info. I have been collecting it myself, but I definitely don't have that much yet. Your preparation shows in the organized way you were able to do this swap.
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2006 Suburban 2500, 8.1L/4.10s. In very very early planning stages for a Duramax swap.

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2006 LLY CC Dually - Sold 8/15 with 454780 miles and going strong.
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Old 11-09-2017, 11:56 AM   #7 (permalink)
berndtmj
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Nice job. It's great seeing all the pictures and descriptions.


How much time do you think you've got into the swap?

Trying to convince wife this is something we should do.
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2007.5 LMM 2500HD CC/LB/SRW Z71 LTZ -
AFE Air Box/Intake, MBRP 4" Down Pipe Back, EFILive by ATP, AirDog II-4G 165 Lift Pump, PCV Re-Route, CTS Insight, Leveled Suspension w/ 5100 Bilsteins, 285/70R17 Hankook ATm on Stock Rims, AuxBeam F16 LEDs in Hi/Lo Beams & Fogs, LED Back-Up Lights w/ Manual Override, 30" LED Light Bar in Bumper Connected to Hi Beams w/ Bypass, Front Receiver Hitch Hidden Behind License Plate, Front & Rear Quick Connect Winch Plugs, Magnum Truck Gear Step Bars

Last edited by berndtmj; 11-09-2017 at 11:56 AM.
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Old 11-09-2017, 01:02 PM   #8 (permalink)
Kriesel
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Camaroz1985 View Post
Congrats, and thanks for the detailed post on what you did. Its a good feeling when it all just works first try, and that seems to be pretty much what you have. The little things will seem like nothing to fix compared to what you have already done.

Would love to see your pdf of info. I have been collecting it myself, but I definitely don't have that much yet. Your preparation shows in the organized way you were able to do this swap.
Thanks, I'll try to post a link to the pdf I built.

Quote:
Originally Posted by berndtmj View Post
How much time do you think you've got into the swap?
I spent a long time compiling the notes, maybe a few months of reading through the forum and such. I bought my donor in March/April or something, but didn't even start tearing it apart until September. I spent nights and weekends throughout September prepping the donor. I then spent nights and weekends throughout October tearing apart the suburban and rebuilding it. I finished what you see here last Sunday.

So, two months of nights and weekends between the donor and the suburban, but months of reading and prepping myself, and collecting parts. I had all the parts I needed sitting in the garage when I dove into the donor.
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Last edited by Kriesel; 11-09-2017 at 01:03 PM.
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Old 11-10-2017, 10:52 AM   #9 (permalink)
Kriesel
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Ok, here is a pdf of my notes, about 90% just copy/pasted from various threads within dieselplace, and a couple of my own notes, like the body lift plastic from McMaster, and where I got my muffler, etc... I only made this document to have all the notes in one place, and somewhat organized as well. It may be confusing, for example, with fuel sending units, I've copy/pasted multiple ways of doing the sending units. So, these notes are completely just to get all the ideas I could find into one easy to find place for myself.

My intent now is to edit this pdf to be what I actually did, with photos in place for my swap, and what I did, step by step.

---> Link to pdf <---
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'03 Quadrasteer Burb 2500 - 2006 LBZ swap
'06 VW TDI - Malone tuned, stage 2 SMF clutch, stock otherwise
'97 Cherokee - Cummins Swap

Last edited by Kriesel; 11-10-2017 at 10:54 AM.
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Old 11-10-2017, 02:05 PM   #10 (permalink)
berndtmj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kriesel View Post
Ok, here is a pdf of my notes, about 90% just copy/pasted from various threads within dieselplace, and a couple of my own notes, like the body lift plastic from McMaster, and where I got my muffler, etc... I only made this document to have all the notes in one place, and somewhat organized as well. It may be confusing, for example, with fuel sending units, I've copy/pasted multiple ways of doing the sending units. So, these notes are completely just to get all the ideas I could find into one easy to find place for myself.

My intent now is to edit this pdf to be what I actually did, with photos in place for my swap, and what I did, step by step.

---> Link to pdf <---
Sticky?

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2007.5 LMM 2500HD CC/LB/SRW Z71 LTZ -
AFE Air Box/Intake, MBRP 4" Down Pipe Back, EFILive by ATP, AirDog II-4G 165 Lift Pump, PCV Re-Route, CTS Insight, Leveled Suspension w/ 5100 Bilsteins, 285/70R17 Hankook ATm on Stock Rims, AuxBeam F16 LEDs in Hi/Lo Beams & Fogs, LED Back-Up Lights w/ Manual Override, 30" LED Light Bar in Bumper Connected to Hi Beams w/ Bypass, Front Receiver Hitch Hidden Behind License Plate, Front & Rear Quick Connect Winch Plugs, Magnum Truck Gear Step Bars
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