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Frankenstein Did you put a 6.5 in a Camaro? A Duramax in a boat? A Cummins in a Chevy? A Powerstroke in a van? Then you must have a touch of the good Dr. Frankenstein. Post your stories, questions, discussions in here... this is intended to be a place to discuss your questions on how to, what to do, etc...

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Old 11-10-2017, 05:43 PM   #11 (permalink)
boisebiker
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You should post the pdf on the Duramax Suburban Brotherhood thread. I remember the months of study and prep before I turned a single wrench. And of course the feeling when the engine started for the first time, nothing like it. Congrats.

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Old 11-11-2017, 06:11 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Awesome work! Great documentation with the PDF. Thanks for sharing! Hope to able to complete my project over the next 6 months. Glad to see it took you only a short time while utilizing just evenings and weeks to complete your work. Looks like you had some slow downs do to some rust on the donor.

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Old 11-14-2017, 12:02 PM   #13 (permalink)
HaaRubicon
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That PDF file is awesome, great work. Wish mine was quad-steer.
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Old 11-15-2017, 10:33 AM   #14 (permalink)
Dooner
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Amazing write up with documented photos! That in and of itself is very time consuming. Congratulations on a successful swap. You must feel a great sense of satisfaction that everything came together from all the work you put into this. Nicely done!
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Old 11-15-2017, 01:12 PM   #15 (permalink)
Kriesel
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Thanks everyone! It is great to drive for sure.

As I continue to work out the bugs, and finish the swap, I'll continue with updates as well.

So, initially when I finished the swap, I was having issues with the shift lever. Sometimes it was completely loose, sometimes it was grab the gear and change gears, sometimes not, it kinda sucked. I figured I had needed to adjust the connection of the two shift cables. I got under there, took off the white retaining clip, and the poodle clip (if you don't know what a poodle clip is, it's similar to a C-clip) fell out onto my face (good thing I had safety glasses on)! The little brass clip was too loose to hold onto the gear shift cables. I tried to squeeze it a little and it just snapped in my hands. In the meantime, I also could not find the second clip that came off the donor....

So, I was off to search for a replacement poodle clip. I had a hard time finding a replacement online, and didn't really want to go to the dealer. I stumbled upon a guy that ordered a few different sizes from McMaster-Carr, and thus found that the correct size poodle clip for the shift cable is a 3/16" clip. I went to McMaster, ordered a bag of 10 (smallest quantity available, but was relatively cheap, and then if another one broke or got lost again, I would have extras). Waited a couple days, and clip showed up:
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

The clip fits pretty snug, which I was happy with. I actually "clipped" into place pretty well... Big upside, the truck shifted perfectly now! This all happened before I actually posted this thread initially, but just now putting this update in.

Since I posted this thread, I've also messed with the fuel fill neck a little. I never took the body off my suburban, and never dropped the rear tank, so I have a different physical view/perspective of others who have done this swap. I have come to find that I do not have a y-pipe as others do.

Here is the LBZ fill neck next to my suburban fill neck:
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

The view of the top of my rear fuel tank. The green arrow is where the fill neck connects. The blue T is a plastic T fitting. The second green arrow goes to the front tank, and dumps into that tank. The red arrow is the flow of fuel from the T to the rear tank. The T fitting is directly connected to the top of the rear tank. There are some check valves inside the T as well.
Untitled by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

So, for now, the donor fill neck doesn't fit onto the T mounted to my rear tank. I ended up augering out the nozzle fill hole of the suburban fill neck, and re-installing it. For reference, I also left ALL of the evap stuff in place, I kinda did so thinking it would help with venting...

Prior to changing the fill neck, I had filled the suburban with 35 gallons of fuel from a jerry can. I had purchased a couple gallons of fuel, but also the donor had a full tank of fuel, so I pumped out all of that fuel as well. So, initial fill on the suburban was 35 gallons of diesel with a can.

After changing the fill neck hole, I went to the gas station to fill with diesel. After I pull up, guy at the next pump says, "you don't see too many suburbans with duramax engines in them". Nope. I put the nozzle in, began to fill (using a smaller diesel nozzle, not the big boy), clicked it on as fast as it would go, and it filled perfectly! I was a little surprised. I had driven 190 miles on the 35 gallons I filled it with earlier, and at the pump I filled up with 16 gallons. So, I'm assuming I drove 190 miles on 14 gallons, which is horrible fuel mileage, but at this point in the game the truck has been idling a bunch while I check things, and doing super short trips around the block, and my 5-mile commute to work is 30 mph zoned... So, I wasn't expecting big numbers right away, mileage-wise. But, since filling with fuel, I've now driven another 150 miles or so I think, So it's at about 300 miles driven since the swap. Everything still going great, and I hauled the rest of the scrap items to the scrap dealer.

Now I'm selling some little things here and there. The donor's rear axle, the front diff, rear seats, some other stuff.

At this point, I'm still driving around with the truck fuse block. Going to try switching back to the suburban fuse block tomorrow I think. Haven't had any concrete answers to a couple questions I've put out there about the ignition 1 relay, so I'll wing it with the best knowledge I have found to this point, and will document what works for me.

Other issues to address in the future:
-AC lines (it's minnesota winter, it could be 70 next week... lol)
-change fuel filter, didn't do so before the swap, wanted it to run/drive first
-couple drops of fluid now and then from the transmission cooler up front
-couple drops of oil on the floor, assuming the leak at the pressure sensor that I was planning to change in the future anyway
-fuel gauge doesn't seem to be doing ANYTHING. will have a stepper motor in the mail tomorrow, and I'll replace it and see what it does. then need to get EFIlive plugged in
-Testdrive asked me about the emergency brake cable, at the time I thought it was fine, but it isn't the correct length, will fix it eventually
-I'm sure I'm forgetting something else...
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Last edited by Kriesel; 11-15-2017 at 01:30 PM.
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Old 11-30-2017, 03:26 PM   #16 (permalink)
DAVe3283
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Having done a Quadrasteer swap with my brother last year (yes, the same DAVe3283, hello again!), I have a couple answers for you, in no particular order.
  1. The emergency brake setup can be mix/matched with the donor truck's and it will fit. I forget exactly which parts get swapped, might have been the part in the cab from the donor? I think it helps it deal with the 2" body lift.
  2. The IGN1 relay can be left alone in the Suburban fuse box. It will run off the ignition switch instead of the ECU, and the ECU will throw a code, but you just turn off that DTC with EFILive and everything works fine. Much easier & cleaner than rewiring things. I presume the LBZ will work too. Though now I wonder if that was one of the two wires you removed from C100?
  3. We did the same thing with the fuel fill (same weird "T" filler as yours): just drill it out. I can fill at full flow without issue too.
  4. You almost certainly have to rescale the fuel gauges with EFILive. You can control the dual tanks with the ECU, theoretically, but you have to find a dual-tank OS and segment swap that in, then get all the values just so. I am still working out kinks in that setup, and the failure mode appears to be you run out of fuel with fuel showing on the gauge.
Thanks for sharing the detailed photos, makes me wish I had taken the time to take more photos, but we plowed through the swap in the week between Christmas and New Years, so not much time to stop and document.
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Last edited by DAVe3283; 11-30-2017 at 03:29 PM.
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Old 11-30-2017, 09:34 PM   #17 (permalink)
testdrive
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Been away from the forum for a while. You have done a great job. I got to relive my build via your excellent write up. There is nothing that compares to have the ultimate two rig.
Jacob, I cut the pins off flush that the wires are soldiered to. The relay is plugged in with just the two pins. I also cut the gray wire loose from the C2 and just connected to the gray going toward the ECM and the gray coming from the ign 1 relay. In other words no tee tap. Been too long but didn't want any cross connects to unknown areas.
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Last edited by testdrive; 11-30-2017 at 09:54 PM.
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Old 12-01-2017, 11:18 AM   #18 (permalink)
Kriesel
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DAVe3283 View Post
  1. The emergency brake setup can be mix/matched with the donor truck's and it will fit. I forget exactly which parts get swapped, might have been the part in the cab from the donor? I think it helps it deal with the 2" body lift.
  2. The IGN1 relay can be left alone in the Suburban fuse box. It will run off the ignition switch instead of the ECU, and the ECU will throw a code, but you just turn off that DTC with EFILive and everything works fine. Much easier & cleaner than rewiring things. I presume the LBZ will work too. Though now I wonder if that was one of the two wires you removed from C100?
  3. We did the same thing with the fuel fill (same weird "T" filler as yours): just drill it out. I can fill at full flow without issue too.
  4. You almost certainly have to rescale the fuel gauges with EFILive. You can control the dual tanks with the ECU, theoretically, but you have to find a dual-tank OS and segment swap that in, then get all the values just so. I am still working out kinks in that setup, and the failure mode appears to be you run out of fuel with fuel showing on the gauge.
I'll have to rummage around for the parts for the emergency brake. Got rid of the donor frame and cab already.

Good to hear about the fuel filler. Mine is working flawlessly so far.

I have a dual-tank OS, so next weekend I'll have a friend try to get that working. I'll probably carry a can of diesel around for a while after getting the gauge to work. So far I've just been filling the tank every 250-300 miles to be safe.

Quote:
Originally Posted by testdrive View Post
I also cut the gray wire loose from the C2 and just connected to the gray going toward the ECM and the gray coming from the ign 1 relay. In other words no tee tap.
Perfect. I wired it correctly I think, but I tee tapped it. I'll attempt the fuse block swap sometime this weekend or next week. Thanks!
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Last edited by Kriesel; 12-01-2017 at 11:19 AM.
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Old 12-01-2017, 07:45 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Very impressive work. I've taken on some pretty big rebuild/restoration type projects before, but that one makes my head spin a little... haha
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Old 12-21-2017, 12:34 PM   #20 (permalink)
Kriesel
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I was kinda bored today, so I finally got to inputting my tire sizes and gear ratios into a spreadsheet I made a long time ago to see what the vehicle speeds would be at any given RPM.

With the current, and Suburban OEM, tire size of 245/75R16:
245 by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

With the donor's tire size of 265/75R16:
245 by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

After the swap, I had thought the speedo was about 4mph off, and the spreadsheet confirms that the speedo is off 3.9 mph due to tire size:
speedo by Jacob Kriesel, on Flickr

We will mess with the speedo with EFI live eventually.

I also got a fuel economy tune put in last week. It's too fun to drive slow though, and I don't get a ton of highway miles in... So I haven't seen a huge jump in fuel mileage.

If anyone is curious about the spreadsheet I use, I've saved it here, and let people download/use it pretty frequently:
Standard:
https://app.box.com/s/1ou0a91otg36rie2zyfl

Metric:
https://app.box.com/s/ry2ofmh8oczvu9hirird

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Last edited by Kriesel; 12-21-2017 at 12:35 PM.
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