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Frankenstein Did you put a 6.5 in a Camaro? A Duramax in a boat? A Cummins in a Chevy? A Powerstroke in a van? Then you must have a touch of the good Dr. Frankenstein. Post your stories, questions, discussions in here... this is intended to be a place to discuss your questions on how to, what to do, etc...

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Old 04-30-2019, 10:34 PM   #931 (permalink)
Diesel Student
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 45
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Hey does anybody know if they make a Suburban/Yukon 2500 with tap shift and park assist but without stabilitrak?

2011 Yukon XL 2500 Duramax LML

Last edited by OkDually; 05-01-2019 at 08:13 AM. Reason: sig
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Old 05-02-2019, 01:32 PM   #932 (permalink)
Wide Open
Diesel Apprentice
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: OHIO
Posts: 320
iTrader Score: 0 reviews

Didn't stability programs become mandatory on all large vehicles (SUV's, van's, etc) sometime in the mid 2000's?

02 Z06
08 Escalade
04 Jetta TDI 47+ mpg
72 K10
86 K30 Crew cab Dually
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Old 07-01-2019, 07:39 PM   #933 (permalink)
1991 K1500
Freeze Plug
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 21
iTrader Score: 0 reviews

I dont know where I'd be at on the "brotherhood" list but bought mine back in November 2018 - finally was able to drive it in April or beginning of May 2019.

So I'm sure some of you may have seen this for sale last year - but someone in Oregon did this conversion 2-3 years ago and imo screwed up a lot of stuff - the LLY motor in it had a cracked cylinder head so I shot a very low offer to the present owner thinking they wouldnt take it and they did. Bought it site unseen and had it shipped to KS - thought heck I'll throw a new cylinder head on it and wont be in it for much money - figured that was a dumb idea as after tear down you could tell this vehicle had head gasket issues for a while as a couple cylinders were "washed out" and somewhat worn smooth in a couple spots - so after that I just went crazy.

Called SoCal and had a motor built - $18k later

I have an LLY/LBZ hybrid motor

** For what I know - blocks are same 01-10 so started with a block that had been tested by SoCal
** Upgraded to LBZ heads
** 10% over injectors
** Head Studs
** Crank Studs
** LBZ CP3
** LMM/LBZ rods (thicker than LLY rods)
** New Pistons
** LLY Reluctor Wheel (If I ever want to yank out ECM & TCM and convert to LBZ I Can - if I change to LBZ reluctor wheel)
** New Cam/Crank Position Sensor
** Stage 1 Turbo - new
** new water pump
** new oil pump
** Curt Class V hitch
** EGR Delete - ordered new manifolds, up pipes and down pipe from Cast Flow in Missouri
** Installed a breakin tune from Danville Performance -- Need to get a new one from them as my fuel mileage is crap
** My favorite part on the exterior - Iron Bull Pre-runner bumper - added 4 driving lights and is winch ready

Long story short original builder didnt do the wiring per how most reputable builders would have done it (Duraburb, Mash Motors, Guy in Nebraska etc) -- so some wiring had to be repaired/repinned by Mash Motors in Wichita

Now the little quirks I have - one last coolant leak I need to chase down - think some a bolt needs to be tightened on either the coolant blockoff plate on passenger side or coolant elbow near oil filter on drivers side - haven't got a good view to see which side yet --

** Thinking the coolant stack needs to be removed/powerwashed - I had asked my buddy who was working on it initially to do so and I dont think he did (I know - never let friends work on your stuff - I made the mistake as he couldnt get it figured out and had to get it to Mash Motors)

** Conversion only has the "front" suburban tank in it - rear has been removed - either have a bad stepper motor or a bad sending unit as only a fraction of the time does the guage work. It appears to be accurate when it does work - want to convert back to stock suburban dual tank setup or install a titan spare tire tank meant for the 3/4 & 1 ton trucks - from what I can tell it would work in the suburban - but I'm not 100% certain yet

** Will remove the top roof rack - I dont like it - think it's killing my fuel mileage and I'm not sure if I'll ever use it.
** Will possibly put a 3-4" suspension lift
** Adjustable King 2.5 Reservoir shocks will be added
** Will replace front end with all new parts from Kryptonite or Cognito -
** Will likely get rid of the 18" rims and go back to 16" or 17" and hopefully 35" tires
** Replace both rockers - photos hid rust - vehicle not rusty but from what I've seen online seems common for rockers on GMT800's to rust??
** Remove all Denali moldings/badging
** Add Fender Flares
** custom rear bumper with removable spare swingout arm to keep full size spare
** Line-X the roof - maybe put Z71 roof rack on or no roof rack at all
** New lightbar for the front bumper - move existing light bar to my truck
** New interior - all new Catskin leathers - likely change center heated bench to heated captains - maybe new carpet - will also dynomat the floor and sidewalls where ncessary
** Change out 03 Denali Center Console for a Tahoe or Suburban console - more drink storage and more storage periord - my wifes 05 Tahoe center console is A LOT more functional than the denali one in mine due to minor details
** Switch out everything to LED on interior and then switch parking lights -- headlights and tails already switched
** 01-05 Alison 6spd conversion and add tapshift
** Likely pull trans at same time and have a stage 1 kit put in
** Powerstop slotted rotors and calipers upgrade
** new ujoints for driveshafts -
** new CV shafts
**01-02 Chevy HD hood installed and trimmed to fit GMC front end
** AMP electric side steps

***** I know the grille or hood doesnt quite line up right - shop installed Iron Bull bumper too far up and needs to adjust it down - I'm also thinking the yahoos that did build did not put truck hood latch on the cooling stack - that or something else is off - haven't had time to research yet. Grille will be painted black or I'll bedliner coat it like the Iron Bull Bumper - will keep the red GMC emblems

Paint Correction and minor body repairs/paint where needed (4-5 dents that need traditional body repair)

By the time I'm done with the list above I'll probably be up to $70k invested but I'll have for the most part a "BRAND - New" vehicle that I like - adding all that stuff to a brand new generation build and I'd be well over $100k -- ridiculous and overboard - you bet - having this vehicle in the first place is ridiculous to be frank - it's my daily driver for now - I'm sure if most people that dont get it knew the investment I have now they'd think Im crazy - I probably am - but hey - I also think people who buy brand new stock vehicles and pay all the property tax/sales tax then trade them in every couple of years are crazy as well. Hopefully when I'm done with everything if I decide to sell in 5-10 years I wont lose my *** on value - maybe maybe not. Either way I'll be driving what I want and like and hopefully this vehicle will provide lots of memories as we plan a lot of road trips. Have put 3500 or so miles on the new motor so far - furthest was NE ks to Dallas and back.

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Old 07-01-2019, 07:42 PM   #934 (permalink)
1991 K1500
Freeze Plug
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 21
iTrader Score: 0 reviews

Forum wouldnt let me edit the message for some reason

Here's a couple photos of it dirty



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Old 07-02-2019, 11:01 AM   #935 (permalink)
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Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Afton, MN
Posts: 176
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Minnesota/Western Wisconsin DP Club Member

Originally Posted by 1991 K1500 View Post
Forum wouldnt let me edit the message for some reason

Here's a couple photos of it dirty
Looks sharp. At first I was like, your roof rack can't be wrecking the fuel mileage that bad, then I saw the picture... haha!
'03 Quadrasteer Burb 2500 - 2006 LBZ swap
'06 VW TDI - Malone tuned, stage 2 SMF clutch, stock otherwise
'97 Cherokee - Cummins Swap
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