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Duramax Fifth Generation: 2011-2016 (LML) Discuss the fifth generation (2011-2016) of the 6.6L Duramax diesel engine & associated components. Engine related discussion ONLY.

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Old 01-27-2019, 01:51 PM   #1 (permalink)
dmax3500
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walk -thru on doing therms?

anybody have pics or a walk-thru on doing therms


everything I see is for lmm-lly-lbz trucks

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Old 01-27-2019, 02:01 PM   #2 (permalink)
OkDually
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This may help some.

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Old 01-28-2019, 09:31 AM   #3 (permalink)
Rvn4me
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmax3500 View Post
anybody have pics or a walk-thru on doing therms
everything I see is for lmm-lly-lbz trucks
Are you inquiring about Thermostats replace?
Itís pretty much the same. You take the stuff off the top of the thermo stat housing. The oil tube out and the 4 bolts out of the housing itself. Lml is a touch more difficult but not that much really.
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Old 01-28-2019, 10:14 AM   #4 (permalink)
dmax3500
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yes replace,im told everything is different,
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Old 01-28-2019, 04:41 PM   #5 (permalink)
G2GBY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rvn4me View Post
Are you inquiring about Thermostats replace?
Itís pretty much the same. You take the stuff off the top of the thermo stat housing. The oil tube out and the 4 bolts out of the housing itself. Lml is a touch more difficult but not that much really.
Pretty much the same.
https://www.wholesalegmpartsonline.c...roduct=3206710
If you Google your question you won't get a step by step for the LML but you'll get a lot of good pointers.
This might help but your going to say it's not an LML. I know.
https://www.merchant-automotive.com/...placement.aspx

You need one of these
2013 Chevrolet Silverado/GMC Sierra Service Manual Set
Price: $350.00 In Stock - Reproduction of Original Publication
Pkg. Qty: 1
(English, Paper, GMT13CKPU

Last edited by G2GBY; 01-28-2019 at 05:02 PM.
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Old 01-28-2019, 06:16 PM   #6 (permalink)
dmax3500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G2GBY View Post
Pretty much the same.
https://www.wholesalegmpartsonline.c...roduct=3206710
If you Google your question you won't get a step by step for the LML but you'll get a lot of good pointers.
This might help but your going to say it's not an LML. I know.
https://www.merchant-automotive.com/...placement.aspx

You need one of these
2013 Chevrolet Silverado/GMC Sierra Service Manual Set
Price: $350.00 In Stock - Reproduction of Original Publication
Pkg. Qty: 1
(English, Paper, GMT13CKPU


yep,ive got a 2008,
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Old 01-29-2019, 11:13 AM   #7 (permalink)
Rvn4me
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmax3500 View Post
anybody have pics or a walk-thru on doing therms
everything I see is for lmm-lly-lbz trucks
Quote:
Originally Posted by dmax3500 View Post
yep,ive got a 2008 LMM,
My head is spinning.
Your signature says 2013 LML

Last edited by Rvn4me; 01-29-2019 at 11:15 AM.
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Old 02-01-2019, 11:54 AM   #8 (permalink)
Dmax Dually
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I just replaced my thermostats. Since I have 111,000 miles on my truck I also replaced my upper and lower radiator hoses and both my EGR coolant hoses last weekend. I was looking for a video also but couldn't find one for the LML either.
Replacing the thermostats wasn't hard. Now, replacing the lower radiator hose was a PITA and I had to remove the rt frt wheel well liner for access.
My truck as dual alternators so I don't know if it makes a difference removing the housing.

Obviously you will be doing this when the engine is cold..
First I removed the cap on the over flow bottle just in case there was any pressure in the system. I also replaced the cap with a new one.
I was replacing my hoses so I removed my lower hose to drain the system. If you are not replacing you hoses remove the upper radiator hose from the thermostat housing. Have rags and a container to catch any coolant.
Next remove the oil filler tube. It is held on by 2 bolts. It makes it a lot easier to remove and install the housing with it removed. I placed a clean rag in the opening where the oil tube was removed to keep any dirt, debris or bolts from falling into the oil pan.
Next remove the bolt that is securing the fan shroud to the front of the thermostat housing. FYI, there is an alignment pin that is moulded into fan shroud mount that is next to where the bolt going into the house. You will not see it until you remove the housing.
Next remove the 2 bolts holding the fuel system suction test port, the metal tube with the black plastic cap on it, that is bolted to the top of thermostat housing. Remove the top bolt first. The bottom bolt is harder to get a wrench on and turn because of the ridge line that run across the top. Be careful not to bend the ridged line while trying to remove the bolt. The test port is connected with rubber hoses so after you unbolt it you can just secure it out of the way.
Next, looking at the top of the housing you will see the fuel filter vacuum switch sitting on top. The switch is held in by a spring clip. You can pull it up out of the clip by hand or carefully place a small screw driver underneath it and pry it up out of the clip. Leave the clip mounted to the housing that bolt doesn't have to be removed to remove the housing.
Next remove the 4 mount bolts holding the housing. Of course the housing is not going to just lift off easily you might have to tap it with a rubber mallet or something to loosen it.
I used a scotch brite pad to clean the seats where the thermostat gaskets will sit. I placed clean rags in the opening to keep dirt from falling in while cleaning.
Reverse the order to install..
Note:
The 2 small 1/2" hoses that you see next to the thermostat housing, on the engine, are your EGR coolant hoses. Take a look at them. Mine were starting to crack. You can't tell just by looking at them. You have to flex them and move them around a little. NOTE: these are custom formed hoses and are a dealer item. If you are going to replace them make sure you have them in hand before you start. I didn't and my truck was down for 3 day waiting for the parts. I tried to use 1/2 heater hose from the auto parts store for temp fix. The longer hose was not a problem. The really short hose was. It is such a tight fit that no matter how I ran the hose it would have a kink in it .
IMHO..If you are going to replace your hoses ( especially the lower hose at $120.00+) use the OEM GM parts from the dealer or I used GM parts direct on line. Call your dealer and get the OEM GM part numbers and shop around.
Before I did the job I purchased my upper and lower hoses from NAPA and I also purchased OEM GM hoses to compare. NAPA uses Gates hoses and claim they are made to OEM spec and are the same..I can tell you as fact they are not. The factory GM OEM hoses are thicker and a more beefier and stronger hose. The NAPA hoses are thinner and softer. Squeezing both hose the Napa Hoses are soft and easy to compress. The GM hoses are firm and a lot harder to compress..
But it's your decision..

Before I changed my thermostats my coolant temp was running around 135 to 155, on my Edge CTS 2 display, with an outside air temp in the upper 40's. After replacing them my temp now run 180-190 with the same OAT. Now watching my CTS display I can tell by the temps when my thermostats are opening. The first one starts to opens at 180 and the temp will keep climbing until the second one starts to open at 185. Since it is cold outside sitting still I can see the temps rise and fall as the thermostats open and close....and of course my factory dash temp gage stay at 210 deg once the engine is warm...
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Old 02-01-2019, 01:00 PM   #9 (permalink)
dmax3500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rvn4me View Post
My head is spinning.
Your signature says 2013 LML


2008 factory service manuals


2013 lml truck
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Old 02-02-2019, 09:17 AM   #10 (permalink)
gmc502
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I have 325k on my 02 and I pretty sure the hoses have never been changed.probably just jinxed myself.

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