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Duramax Fifth Generation: 2011-2016 (LML) Discuss the fifth generation (2011-2016) of the 6.6L Duramax diesel engine & associated components. Engine related discussion ONLY.

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Old 01-23-2019, 09:00 PM   #11 (permalink)
BigMike8504
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I cant speak for everyone, but I use factory filters on my truck with the exception of the transmission, it comes from the Allison dealer. The oil gets changed when the DIC hits about 25 percent oil life left, the transmission filter and fuel filter every other oil change. Overkill, probably, but the life of a mechanical anything is in clean lubrication. I drained the factory fluid in the Allison and put in Transynd, pretty simple and cheap insurance. I use Rotella oil. Trucks a 16 LML with 75K on the odometer. For the Def, I like to get it from the truck stops on the pump. You can fill it up cheap and not risk making a mess everywhere, but it really does not matter as long as what you buy is still sealed. I wouldnt flush all the factory fluids from the power train until your power train warranty is expired. You have a 5 year 100k on that.

Dont let it idle. Start it up and as soon as it come off high idle, take off. The duramax does not build heat at idle, so all you are doing is clogging up the soot cooker and wasting fuel. I do give mine a 2 to 3 minute cool down before I shut it off if I have been towing, but that is not very often.

One last biggie, put some kind of fuel additive in it. The diesel fuel we get is not very good at lubrication the fuel system. I would venture to say that anything will work, just dont go old school and put motor oil or marvel mystery oil or anything like that in it. Personally, I run Stanadyne formula. Bosch is owned by Stanadyne, Bosch makes most of the fuel system components in these trucks. The additive it cheap and can be bought off amazon. I run a 60 gallon treatment in every tank. Again, probably overkill, but its cheap insurance.

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1985 GMC K-1500 6.2/700R4 3.73's on 31x10.50's 95k original miles power everything.
2004 1500 Silverado 4.8 NV-3500 5-speed
1984 K10 350 4-bbl Th350 up 4 on 35x12.50
1991 C30 454 SM465
1983 K20 Suburban 6.2 700R4

Last edited by BigMike8504; 01-23-2019 at 09:05 PM.
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Old 01-23-2019, 09:23 PM   #12 (permalink)
Mark4310
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigMike8504 View Post
I cant speak for everyone, but I use factory filters on my truck with the exception of the transmission, it comes from the Allison dealer. The oil gets changed when the DIC hits about 25 percent oil life left, the transmission filter and fuel filter every other oil change. Overkill, probably, but the life of a mechanical anything is in clean lubrication. I drained the factory fluid in the Allison and put in Transynd, pretty simple and cheap insurance. I use Rotella oil. Trucks a 16 LML with 75K on the odometer. For the Def, I like to get it from the truck stops on the pump. You can fill it up cheap and not risk making a mess everywhere, but it really does not matter as long as what you buy is still sealed. I wouldnt flush all the factory fluids from the power train until your power train warranty is expired. You have a 5 year 100k on that.

Dont let it idle. Start it up and as soon as it come off high idle, take off. The duramax does not build heat at idle, so all you are doing is clogging up the soot cooker and wasting fuel. I do give mine a 2 to 3 minute cool down before I shut it off if I have been towing, but that is not very often.

One last biggie, put some kind of fuel additive in it. The diesel fuel we get is not very good at lubrication the fuel system. I would venture to say that anything will work, just dont go old school and put motor oil or marvel mystery oil or anything like that in it. Personally, I run Stanadyne formula. Bosch is owned by Stanadyne, Bosch makes most of the fuel system components in these trucks. The additive it cheap and can be bought off amazon. I run a 60 gallon treatment in every tank. Again, probably overkill, but its cheap insurance.
When it comes to oil changes. Will a dealer get you in and out or does the truck need to be there until they get to it? I travel for work so changing my own oil is not really a option. But I may have to figure that out and make it happen. I keep general mechanic tools with me and I’m fairly handy when it comes to vehicles. (At least on a gasser). Do you use the Rotella synthetic?

The idle on start up I do is like you described. I wait for the high idle to stop. I was in Kansas for a few weeks when I bought the truck and it was cold so it seemed like the high idle lasted 10/15 min. Give or take. Now that I’m in Texas the high idle takes way less time.

Can I fill up my tank at the semi truck pumps? I haven’t tried that yet but when I’m pulling my 5th wheel that will be more convenient. I’m assuming that’s what your we’re talking about getting your def from.

I’m gonna order the Stanadyne. I keep hearing good things about it and haven’t found it locally yet.

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Old 01-23-2019, 09:48 PM   #13 (permalink)
BigMike8504
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark4310 View Post
When it comes to oil changes. Will a dealer get you in and out or does the truck need to be there until they get to it? I travel for work so changing my own oil is not really a option. But I may have to figure that out and make it happen. I keep general mechanic tools with me and Iím fairly handy when it comes to vehicles. (At least on a gasser). Do you use the Rotella synthetic?

The idle on start up I do is like you described. I wait for the high idle to stop. I was in Kansas for a few weeks when I bought the truck and it was cold so it seemed like the high idle lasted 10/15 min. Give or take. Now that Iím in Texas the high idle takes way less time.

Can I fill up my tank at the semi truck pumps? I havenít tried that yet but when Iím pulling my 5th wheel that will be more convenient. Iím assuming thatís what your weíre talking about getting your def from.

Iím gonna order the Stanadyne. I keep hearing good things about it and havenít found it locally yet.
When I change the oil myself or when the dealer does it, we both use standard Rotella. I call ahead and they can usually get mine in and out in less than 45 minutes. They also do the oil change for 89.99 where I bought the truck. Reasonable considering the oil and filter is about $65 depending on oil prices.

The high idle is some tricky to predict. I have an Edge Monitor in mine so I can see exactly what its doing more than the factory gauges can tell me. When you get a cold day ( low 30s or less), your exhuast brake will engage while its warming up and it will sound like a jet engine whistling. That happens at 1100 RPM, then it will fall to 900 then 750 then to 640, and 640 is your normal idle unless its building heat to regen at 800. If you catch a high idle past 5 minutes, step on the brake and it will fall to normal idle. Step off the brake and see if it goes back up. Even in single digits ( which has only happened here in GA once) I stop the high idle at 10 minutes. You will get the hang of it pretty quick.

You can fill the def at the semi pumps, you just have to get close to the pump and the under hood fill point is on the passenger side of the truck. I carry and old T shirt to put on the fender as the truck stop equipment is not known to be the cleanest. You wont have to fill your DEF as often as you think. GM says 1 gallon of DEF per 1000 miles of traveling. Even towing, mine does better than that. While on the subject, if you fuel at truck stops, dont top of the fuel or you will get soaked.

The additive it great. I add after I fuel as I have noticed if I put it in first, it causes the fuel to foam up pretty good. I run all weather most of the year, and the summer time formula in summer. I think its the performance formula. They have several and I notice a 1-2 mpg increase in economy on an all interstate run with no regens at 70 mph.

If you want to do your own oil, Id recommend getting the special bottom of the filter wrench for the oil filter. Its at a 45 degree angle and almost impossible to get to. It also makes a huge mess.
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2016 2500 Z71 CCSB
2015 Chevrolet 155 Crew Cab nonexistent bed, Traded
1985 GMC K-1500 6.2/700R4 3.73's on 31x10.50's 95k original miles power everything.
2004 1500 Silverado 4.8 NV-3500 5-speed
1984 K10 350 4-bbl Th350 up 4 on 35x12.50
1991 C30 454 SM465
1983 K20 Suburban 6.2 700R4
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Old 01-23-2019, 10:01 PM   #14 (permalink)
ktmrfs
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If you change your oil yourself, get a fumoto valve with a nipple. way less mess.
And many states now require 5% biodiesel. that helps on the lubricity. That and I use stanadyne lubricity formula. probably overkill.
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Old 01-23-2019, 11:27 PM   #15 (permalink)
Mark4310
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When I change the oil myself or when the dealer does it, we both use standard Rotella. I call ahead and they can usually get mine in and out in less than 45 minutes. They also do the oil change for 89.99 where I bought the truck. Reasonable considering the oil and filter is about $65 depending on oil prices.

The high idle is some tricky to predict. I have an Edge Monitor in mine so I can see exactly what its doing more than the factory gauges can tell me. When you get a cold day ( low 30s or less), your exhuast brake will engage while its warming up and it will sound like a jet engine whistling. That happens at 1100 RPM, then it will fall to 900 then 750 then to 640, and 640 is your normal idle unless its building heat to regen at 800. If you catch a high idle past 5 minutes, step on the brake and it will fall to normal idle. Step off the brake and see if it goes back up. Even in single digits ( which has only happened here in GA once) I stop the high idle at 10 minutes. You will get the hang of it pretty quick.

You can fill the def at the semi pumps, you just have to get close to the pump and the under hood fill point is on the passenger side of the truck. I carry and old T shirt to put on the fender as the truck stop equipment is not known to be the cleanest. You wont have to fill your DEF as often as you think. GM says 1 gallon of DEF per 1000 miles of traveling. Even towing, mine does better than that. While on the subject, if you fuel at truck stops, dont top of the fuel or you will get soaked.

The additive it great. I add after I fuel as I have noticed if I put it in first, it causes the fuel to foam up pretty good. I run all weather most of the year, and the summer time formula in summer. I think its the performance formula. They have several and I notice a 1-2 mpg increase in economy on an all interstate run with no regens at 70 mph.

If you want to do your own oil, Id recommend getting the special bottom of the filter wrench for the oil filter. Its at a 45 degree angle and almost impossible to get to. It also makes a huge mess.[/QUOTE]

I’ve been looking at the Edge cts pro(I think). I was looking at several a few days ago. Which one do you use/recommend?

When I was in Kansas that’s what it sounded like.

I did not know that about the filter. I’ve got a lot to learn about this truck.
I won’t be able to take it to the original dealer as it’s in Missouri and I’m currently in Texas. I strongly dislike the closest dealer to me. Issues with my wife’s previous car and them losing to my face. But that’s another story. The next closest dealer is 30/45min away. But dealerships around here are so backed up Idk if I could get it in and back the same day or even 2/3 weeks.
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Old 01-24-2019, 12:15 AM   #16 (permalink)
BigMike8504
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Its just the edge monitor, I stress its just a monitor. If you mess with the computer its your baby if something happens to your power train. I believe its the CTS. Plugs into the diagnostic port. I have mine setup to show RPM and soot level on the small gauges, EGT front and center, ECT top left and Boost top right. Honestly, I wouldnt be afraid of a quick lube, just make sure they use what you ask them to. Its no different than changing the oil in anything else. I forgot to mention that I swap air filters every 30K, factory stuff. The aftermarket air filters let in to much dirt.

On the computer stuff. I talked at length with Kory Willis himself of PPEI two years ago when I was about to put the Edge programmer on my truck. He said dont do it unless you are ready for it to be yours. He said even if you put it on and take it off, it leaves a foot print where it messes with the programming and will show up if you have a real engine/transmission problem. He also said that, more than likely, the check engine light would come on as soon as you start programming. There are so many sensors measuring so much you cant really do anything without lighting up the dash like a Christmas tree. When mine hits 100k its getting the DPF crap taken off and just enough programming to make the truck not know it was ever there to start with. Just something to think about.
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2016 2500 Z71 CCSB
2015 Chevrolet 155 Crew Cab nonexistent bed, Traded
1985 GMC K-1500 6.2/700R4 3.73's on 31x10.50's 95k original miles power everything.
2004 1500 Silverado 4.8 NV-3500 5-speed
1984 K10 350 4-bbl Th350 up 4 on 35x12.50
1991 C30 454 SM465
1983 K20 Suburban 6.2 700R4
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Old 01-24-2019, 12:36 AM   #17 (permalink)
Mark4310
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigMike8504 View Post
Its just the edge monitor, I stress its just a monitor. If you mess with the computer its your baby if something happens to your power train. I believe its the CTS. Plugs into the diagnostic port. I have mine setup to show RPM and soot level on the small gauges, EGT front and center, ECT top left and Boost top right. Honestly, I wouldnt be afraid of a quick lube, just make sure they use what you ask them to. Its no different than changing the oil in anything else. I forgot to mention that I swap air filters every 30K, factory stuff. The aftermarket air filters let in to much dirt.

On the computer stuff. I talked at length with Kory Willis himself of PPEI two years ago when I was about to put the Edge programmer on my truck. He said dont do it unless you are ready for it to be yours. He said even if you put it on and take it off, it leaves a foot print where it messes with the programming and will show up if you have a real engine/transmission problem. He also said that, more than likely, the check engine light would come on as soon as you start programming. There are so many sensors measuring so much you cant really do anything without lighting up the dash like a Christmas tree. When mine hits 100k its getting the DPF crap taken off and just enough programming to make the truck not know it was ever there to start with. Just something to think about.
I’m good with using factory filters.

The edge at least at this point. I just want to see as much as I can about what the truck is doing.
I have 3 year extended warranty. Unless my situation changes I’ll have about 100k on the truck give or take. At that point I’m thinking like you. Ditch the def and a tow time or whatever time I need to make it run right.
I have a lot of research to do on the deletes before I commit. I’m all honesty. I have no or very little use for the 5 tune setup. A lift pump will happen at that time also. To help the cp4. Until then it’s additives.
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Old 03-02-2019, 04:00 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Following the post.


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Old 03-02-2019, 10:56 AM   #19 (permalink)
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I have the edge cts2 in my truck and like the others,use it to monitor soot level(grams) and when the regen is on so I can leave the truck running till it finishes.also like I can see miles betw. regens.
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Old 03-02-2019, 12:33 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gmc502 View Post
I have the edge cts2 in my truck and like the others,use it to monitor soot level(grams) and when the regen is on so I can leave the truck running till it finishes.also like I can see miles betw. regens.
Why do you not turn the truck off until the regen finishes? The truck is designed to stop the regen and pick up where it left off the next time itís started.

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