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Duramax Fifth Generation: 2011-2016 (LML) Discuss the fifth generation (2011-2016) of the 6.6L Duramax diesel engine & associated components. Engine related discussion ONLY.

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Old 04-18-2016, 09:21 PM   #1 (permalink)
mesaman
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Help and Guidance. BLOWN Head Gasket

Hi Everyone!!

First, thank you all for the great information on here. I have utilized this forum for many years and it is chocked full of GREAT information!! Thank you all for your guidance ahead on time.

I have an issue with my 2011 Duramax, and I need a little bit of direction here...

I have a 2011 Crew Cab, Long Bed, D-Max, set up exactly as I need it for towing. It was my dream truck, that finally came true 5 years ago. It has 95,000 miles, is not chipped or anything, and has been babied since the day I bought it, with oil changes every 5K, fuel filter every 15K, tranny flushes, coolant flushes, the whole 9 yards. I have a great diesel mechanic here in town that has taken great care of the truck from day 1.

However, recently, the worst happened, and I sprung a leak in the head gasket; Passenger side, just behind the fuel filter. Slow leak, but persistent.

I spoke to the dealership (of course it is out of warranty by date (4 months)). They actually agreed to fix it for $1,500 deductible, but will ONLY replace the gasket. They dont seem to care to figure out why it failed (warped heads, stretched bolts, etc.) My mechanic is worried that it wont last long (maybe 15K miles) after the repair if they dont properly identify the problem.

So here are my questions...
*What is the likelihood it will fail again?
*Would you trust the truck after that? I use the truck for hauling all over the west coast and into Mexico and need it reliable.
*How to I ensure the dealership fixes it properly?
*The truck still books around $40K. Is it worth trading in?

Your thoughts and direction are GREATLY appreciated!!

Thanks Everyone!!

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Old 04-19-2016, 03:38 PM   #2 (permalink)
Dmaxmoe
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Could you convince them to give you the head once it's off to take to a machine shop of your choice? The heads(s) should be checked for flatness when they're off for a HG. They might be easier to work with as well if you toss some cash at them to do head studs, drivers side would be 1 at a time replacing bolts.

How long has it been leaking, and has the truck ever been overheated or ran borderline overheating for any amount of time? Things like these would make me consider dumping the truck after doing the $1500 dollar minimal fix.

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Old 04-19-2016, 04:02 PM   #3 (permalink)
mesaman
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Hey Dmaxmoe!!

Thanks for the reply!!

They have assured me that all head bolts will be replaced, as they can only properly be torqued once by spec. The truck is not chipped, and no plans to do so. So I am thinking replacing with stock bolts is sufficient. They will also check the head for flatness and will let me observe the tests to make sure it is proper. I plan to visit the shop every other day to check progress.

The truck has been leaking off and on for about a month now. Small leak, maybe a total of 1/2 quart of coolant has leaked out. No pressure on the top radiator hose, so I am comfortable that it has not leaked internal to the motor. Keeping a close eye on the oil as well.

The truck has never been overheated as far as engine/tranny temp goes. I do not have supplemental gauges to check oil temp however. I do tow a heavy load (~15K lbs.) about once a month around arizona/california/mexico.

Thanks for your help!!
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Old 04-19-2016, 04:27 PM   #4 (permalink)
jon5212
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Trust me if you are tearing into it that far, put studs in it. 500 bucks cheap warranty to not have to worry about it again.
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Old 04-19-2016, 07:49 PM   #5 (permalink)
rmoore0852
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Want to hear a horror story about how well the dealership does on head gaskets and how great the stock head bolts are, take a read at this......

https://www.dieselplace.com/forum/63-...ideas-why.html

It's a long thread, but read it all. Lots of good information about what I found when I had to fix a job done by the dealer.......
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Old 04-20-2016, 11:48 AM   #6 (permalink)
redwngr
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A little dmax head gasket replacement infor:

Duramax Diesel Head Gasket Replacement

(pictures/diagrams will show up in the link, but not in this 'cut and paste')

Duramax Diesel Head Gasket Replacement
May 21, 2015
The following are recommendations and best practices to follow during Duramax diesel cylinder head service or gasket replacement on 2001-2015 Express, Silverado, Savana and Sierra models equipped with the Duramax diesel engine (RPO LB7, LBZ, LGH, LLY, LML, LMM).



Gaskets are Not Interchangeable



The left and right cylinder head gaskets are not interchangeable. (Fig. 6) Improper placement of the cylinder head gasket will block coolant and oil passages. Blocked coolant and oil passages will cause severe engine damage.



F06 gasket

Fig. 6



Surface Cleaning Procedures



Do not use any power type sanding devices. Do not use a wire brush or wheel to clean gasket surfaces. Do not use chemical cleaning agents on gasket surfaces. Refer to Bulletin #00-06-01-012 for more information.



Refer to Service Information and Bulletin #06-06-01-006 for engine block and cylinder head sealing surface cleaning procedures.



Cylinder Head Bolts



During cylinder head servicing or cylinder head gasket replacement, always use new M12 cylinder head bolts. The M8 cylinder head bolts can be reused.



Clean the bolt threads and holes.



Handling Gaskets



Leave the gaskets in the packaging until they are ready to be installed on the block. Once removed from the packaging, handle them with great care.



Do not set the gaskets on workbenches or toolboxes to avoid possible introduction of foreign debris.



Do not use air to blow between the gasket layers.



Cylinder Head Surface



Do not machine the cylinder head surface. Measure the cylinder head for warpage with a straight edge and a feeler gauge. A cylinder head block deck with warpage in excess of 0.1 mm (0.0039 in.) must be replaced.



Installation



It is recommended to install two head bolts, secured to minimal torque (20 Nm), prior to installing the remaining head bolts. This will minimize the chance of introducing other foreign material during installation.



Use a paint pen on the M12 cylinder head bolts during installation to mark the head of each bolt, one by one, indicating which of the four torque steps have been completed on that particular bolt. This prevents skipping a step or doing a step twice. In the end, all bolts should have four paint pen marks.
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