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Old 10-09-2019, 09:14 PM   #1 (permalink)
peyton
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"click/no crank" 1999 diesel c2500 suburban

hello all,

my 130000 mile suburban is currently suffering from "click/no crank" syndrome. altho occasionally it will start on 1st try, it mostly clicks several times before cranking/starting. i am in the process of cleaning the grounds and doing voltage checks per the shop manual. the batteries are fully charged with each measuring 12.5+ volts.

one of the answers from the shop manual troubleshooting guide is replacing the neg battery cables and/or the pos battery-to-starter cable ... but how bad does a cable have to be to cause this problem? seems unlikely to have so little margin of error but there it is. i'll try to finish troubleshooting per the shop manual and probably replace the battery cables ... and then the starter if necessary. any suggestions?

if it comes to replacing the starter, i have a new 28mt starter, type 171, model 1113296 that i purchased years ago against a future (then) problem. i'm hoping that it is correct for the suburban as i imagine the specs haven't changed for these in quite a while.

anybody else run into this problem? i found different versions of it on the internet but never an answer as to what the causes are. thanks,

peyton

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Old 10-09-2019, 09:23 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Relocated over to 6.5L for more appropriate answers



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Old 10-09-2019, 11:15 PM   #3 (permalink)
Glagulator
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Do you still have the side terminal batts?
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99 CREW LONG SRW C3500 work truck 199k+ mi. orig. motor & trans 4.10, modded engine harness, new oil cooler & lines, all new front end parts and poly bushings, trans poly mount, all new brakes.
96 SUBURBAN K2500 wife's truck 210k+ mi. orig. motor & trans, 3.73...
95 C2500 Suburban 6.5td HO w/p, timing set, HB & pulley, all rubber hoses, modded engine & main harness, converted to OBD2, PMD to bumper...
95 C1500 Suburban 6.5td rebuild tranny, convert to DB2, replacing as many parts as I can.
96 C2500 Suburban 7.4L converting to 6.5td w/ DB2, 4L80, 3.73
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Old 10-09-2019, 11:34 PM   #4 (permalink)
cruzer747
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I would 1st rule out the batteries. 12.5 does not necessarily mean a healthy battery. Load testing is best but if that is not an option try jump starting it. If it starts better and does not give you troubles while starting while connected to a notyher running vehicle than I would look closer at the batteries.

Next place to look at would be the main connection at the starter. (disconnect the grounds to the main batts first and really give things some good wiggling and make sure all connectors down there are primo.)

After that one thing I ran into that was odd was a starter that required a little shimming. The gear would sometimes hit the ring gear when it was being pushed by the solenoid and stop dead in its tracks without engaging the main contacts to spin the starter. There should be ~3/32 from the shaft on the starter to the tips of the ring gear. Anything less and I would add a shim.

After all of those tests passed maybe look at the solenoid itself and signal from the starter (though the clicking would indicate that is likely good).

Start with those, good luck! Also the main ground you need to make sure of would be the batteries to the block in this case as the starter uses the block as it's ground.
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Old 10-09-2019, 11:46 PM   #5 (permalink)
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x2 on load testing the batteries one at a time.
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Old 10-10-2019, 12:17 AM   #6 (permalink)
peyton
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OkDually View Post
Relocated over to 6.5L for more appropriate answers

thanks for putting it in the right place. i seem to have not been paying attention.

peyton
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Old 10-10-2019, 12:30 AM   #7 (permalink)
peyton
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Glagulator View Post
Do you still have the side terminal batts?
yes. are they a problem?

peyton
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1999 c25 suburban with 6.5 td and 3.73 rear end
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Old 10-10-2019, 02:56 AM   #8 (permalink)
Glagulator
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The stacked connection on the pass side batt + can sometimes cause your problem.
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99 CREW LONG SRW C3500 work truck 199k+ mi. orig. motor & trans 4.10, modded engine harness, new oil cooler & lines, all new front end parts and poly bushings, trans poly mount, all new brakes.
96 SUBURBAN K2500 wife's truck 210k+ mi. orig. motor & trans, 3.73...
95 C2500 Suburban 6.5td HO w/p, timing set, HB & pulley, all rubber hoses, modded engine & main harness, converted to OBD2, PMD to bumper...
95 C1500 Suburban 6.5td rebuild tranny, convert to DB2, replacing as many parts as I can.
96 C2500 Suburban 7.4L converting to 6.5td w/ DB2, 4L80, 3.73
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Old 10-10-2019, 04:34 PM   #9 (permalink)
peyton
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hi,

some progress i think. the solenoid voltage, using engine as ground, is same as battery voltage. this seems to say that the +batt cable to starter is good. agreed? that still doesn't say that the batteries are working good under load.

i connected a 10 ga jumper wire between starter mounting bolt and batt neg terminal. seemingly the problem has been *lessened* by the jumper. recently it has been "click multiple times, then start" but since the jumper was installed it has been "single click, then start".

is there some conductive corrosion-resistant compound that can be used to protect the grounds? or maybe just a bit of paint.

my conclusion is that all grounds still need to be cleaned, starter grounding needs to be fixed and the starter solenoid might be faulty. any suggestions? thanks,

peyton
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Old 10-10-2019, 04:56 PM   #10 (permalink)
JMJNet
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Bring the batteries to the part store even WM to be load tested.

I know I am a pest.

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PMD in Bumper
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Leroy Diesel Oil Cooler Line
4" Warpspeed Exhaust
Kennedy Diesel LP/OPS Harness
Bosch Duraterm GP
Heath Turbo-Master
AD244 Alternator
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