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New Member and New to Diesels - ‘83 Suburban Turbo Diesel (6.5 L) 4x4

1K views 16 replies 7 participants last post by  OkDually 
#1 ·
Hi all. Bill here. I’m new to diesel ownership, maintenance and upkeep, and I am open to any advice and words of wisdom.
I do have a specific question: My Diesel is a big rust bucket, but the engine is relatively new and rebuilt (6.5 L turbo). Is it worth it to buy a clean car with an old engine and switch em out? Has anyone ever done this? Would love to get any advice and info on this and anything else.
Also, 1) Where are the best places to buy parts? 2) What initial mods should I look to make for the best performance and ride? 3) How can I maximize my everyday driving gas mileage?
Thanks all!
 
#2 ·
Got any underhood pics? An 83 would have come with a non turbo 6.2 so one thing we would want to figure out is if mods were made to make a normal 6.5 side mount turbo fit or if maybe you have a banks turbo made for that truck and a 6.2 that is now on a 6.5.


You said clean car? You mean car or another truck? If you mean car what are you thinking? In theory a car that was made to fit a big block chev should be reasonable since that is what the 6.2 6.5 was made to replace. Big blocks ended for the cars in 76. I have read about people putting them in 80's full size rwd cars without serious issues. People make big blocks fit in things like G bodies so that should be possible too in theory.
 
#4 ·
It also could be a Non-Turbo 6.5L Although rare they are out there...
But, I believe if you removed the A/C unit from the truck the 6.5 W/ Turbo will clear...
 
#3 ·
Hey Bill, Welcome to the Forum!!! It first depends on what year 6.5L Honestly the 92-93 N/A Engines are by far the most Desirable 6.5s After 1994+ Is the Electronic Injection pump/Trans... I'm a 6.2L guy but I've been told EGR delete, Oil Lines, Clean filters/Fuel additive, 4-inch exhaust will Wake those 6.5s Up 10 fold...

Besides, keep the Suburban The Body will fall off before the engine quits!!! Which is a True fact, Instead of a car that's a lot newer and probably Way!!! More prone to breaking down unlike these ole girls you can get half a million outta them and still run... There are a lot of places for parts weather is Leroy Diesel, QuadStar Tuning, eBay, etc...
Many many many places.

Now for Gas Mileage... About anything that would stop you in the first place of Achiveing that... Again EGR, Clean Filters, Fuel additive etc.
 
#6 ·
how do you figure that? Some of the 1982 Red Block 6.2s were still used in the very early 83s as "leftovers" those engines nowadays IF it still had the 6.2L in it are getting very desirable & hard to find and have skyrocketed in price up towards $1500 for JUST the engine.
 
#10 ·
OK guys, here’s the pics you requested and some more questions I have for you based on your replies so far.

Please don’t forget, i’m Totally new to all of this, so when you refer to something with just abbreviated letters or use technical terminology with no explanation, you’re probably losing me. I am an eager learner though!

Attached are my engine pics, as well as all my major body rust issues on the exterior. Frame looks like it’s just surface rust so far, as well as the vin plate (very faded). Text Font Car Vehicle


Let me know if there’s any specific pics that you need to help me decipher what I’ve got.

Is it just the 83 body yr that’s so desirable or the body model years it is in. I’ve seen clean ‘86’s (Diesel 4x4’s) for sale for $4,000 around here.

Since all my rust is on the upper part of the car, do I chop the top and replace it? Or what’s the best and hopefully cheapest solution?

Thanks guys!
 

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#16 ·
OK guys, here’s the pics you requested and some more questions I have for you based on your replies so far.

Please don’t forget, i’m Totally new to all of this, so when you refer to something with just abbreviated letters or use technical terminology with no explanation, you’re probably losing me. I am an eager learner though!

Attached are my engine pics, as well as all my major body rust issues on the exterior. Frame looks like it’s just surface rust so far, as well as the vin plate (very faded). View attachment 618698

Let me know if there’s any specific pics that you need to help me decipher what I’ve got.

Is it just the 83 body yr that’s so desirable or the body model years it is in. I’ve seen clean ‘86’s (Diesel 4x4’s) for sale for $4,000 around here.

Since all my rust is on the upper part of the car, do I chop the top and replace it? Or what’s the best and hopefully cheapest solution?

Thanks guys!
Looks like the Original 6.2L just with the Banks Turbo which alone is 3K from their website & eBay store. Usually, get to give "Discounts" but only like $2-300 Off. Therefore a lot of 6.2 Guys put GM 3-4 6.5L turbos on them and sometimes ATS Turbo Kits IF you can find any... On all that rust... I'm not too sure. Do what's best I guess Suburbans around here in Michigan are still sort-of dime a dozen On the "Desirable" Part I think it's just the body model years Honestly.

I've never heard someone say that 83s are desirable... Most of the time its 84-85/86-87 For the "Better" Looking Front Grille But considering 1983 is the first year for them with the marker/blinkers inside the grille i can see that the rest IMO is just an 81-87 body... Although the only other difference I can think of is the Dash bezel is specific to 81-83 only.

In 1984 they had a completely new Cruise control setup, Instead of the Inner Fender Mounted "Vaccum Transducer" For the 700R4 Setups & The TH-400 used a Different style where it connected to the side of the Injection pump with a Vaccum Regulator Valve too shift.
 
#11 · (Edited)
Welcome to DP!

Fixing rust issue can be daunting even with a good donor
One it’s still a ton of work

If originality is important you may want to swap vins, check for legality

If you’re seeing outside rust thru the actual hidden damage will be worse.

I’d check the frame for structural integrity, no rusted out or weakened spots, accident damage.

Then body mounting points.

If that looks sound and you’re not fighting exhaust fumes in cabin...
Drive it with the “patina” fix vitals, brakes, steering, tires etc...worry about rust later...
 
#12 ·
Adding to my post,,,ok I’d be looking for a donor, but check your frame first to see if it’s in need of replacement.

Some of the aftermarket panels may work, fenders, front doors parts or patch panels.
 
#13 ·
Rust just makes it lighter which makes it more efficient.



Any idea where in the world it spend most of its life? Must be a unique climate to have that much visible rust on the body but still a solid frame.
 
#14 ·
Idaho in the snow. I guess it was co weed in snow on top, and clean underneath. Other than that, no idea. Floor pans are pretty clean. Most rust is on the hood and roof, and then from the bottom of the windows up.
 
#15 ·
If it's rust on the body, it will definitely be rust on the frame. Buy with caution.
 
#17 ·
I would do a full body off inspection of the frame and if it's good, start the hunt for a southern state donor.
Treat the frame and go ground up resto with the donor.

If the frame is just as bad as the body then hunt for a southern state, rust free project and turn the rusty burb into the donor.
 
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