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6.5L Diesel Engine Discuss the 6.5 GM diesel engine & associated components. Automatic transmission questions & problems belong in the 4L80/85 - 4L60E - 6L90 Transmission Forum

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Old 04-11-2019, 09:18 AM   #11 (permalink)
jnlperformance
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Dosent dtc88=out of timing range? 2.02(+/-) or greater...I forget...

Seems jmj may be onto something with dtc 19. That's a CPS error.

Is that -2.02 or +2.02 your seeing on gmtd scan tech..

ALSO... after reading the 1st post a bit more...

Youre running a 6.2 out of an 86 or prior cucv.? With a ds4?? Did you change out your roller chain set?? If you didn't your missing something VERY important right now...

The crankshaft reluctor ring. Part of the crankshaft timing gear. Its used in conjunction with the CPS and required for the ds4 electric injection pumps...



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Old 04-11-2019, 09:21 AM   #12 (permalink)
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If you have a 6.5 donor or sorts.. you can buy a new chain and use the old 6.5 gears. Just get a new chain.

Pull the timing cover... remove and replace roller chain set.

Pull the power steering pump to the side. Do not disconnect lines on it. Just hang it off to the side with some wire / rope / zip ties.

Pull the balancer and crank pelly. Inspect both while your there. Dont forget about the front main seal.

Mark your current IP position with a marker. For reference. You dont need to remove the ip. You can sneak the timing cover and leave the ip and its lines.

Same goes for the ip timing gears. Mark their position or turn the engine by hand to tdc and dont move it after that.

You'll need this...
https://www.dieselplace.com/forum/3036559-post2.html
Torque specs...

Ds4 wont work without reluctor ring and CPS present.

It's a mistake I made too... not for running a ds but I wanted a tach. Much easier to wire a tach with the CPS and reluctor ring. live and learn right? Lol

It may also help to remove the front coolant crossover (for space) I typically do when servicing the front timing cover.

hope this helps.

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Old 04-11-2019, 11:16 AM   #13 (permalink)
cliffyp
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So I'm 99% sure I used the 6.5 timing set and not the one from the 6.2, but now there is that 1% of doubt creeping in "did I forget that?".

the 2.02 is a + 2.02
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Old 04-11-2019, 11:46 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Well positive(+) anything means the ip is retarded and should be advanced.

While facing the front of the engine looking towards the rear; turn the ip clockwise. Another reference point; turn the top of the injection pump toward the driver side. That'll put you in the negative.

If you have a timing mark on the timing cover and one on the pump already; line them up and see what your on. Use that as a baseline.

Every 1.5mm of turning is 3 degrees (I'm pretty sure)
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Old 04-11-2019, 12:30 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I’m trying to get this d*mn crank position sensor out. Removed the bolt, and metal plate. Now it’s just the wires sticking out of the sensor. There is a tiny amount of play, but the thing just won’t come out. Before I grab wires and really start yanking, is there any other retention that I’m not aware of that’s keeping it in place?
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Old 04-11-2019, 12:37 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cliffyp View Post
Iím trying to get this d*mn crank position sensor out. Removed the bolt, and metal plate. Now itís just the wires sticking out of the sensor. There is a tiny amount of play, but the thing just wonít come out. Before I grab wires and really start yanking, is there any other retention that Iím not aware of thatís keeping it in place?
The CPS is no fun task. It's going to take some brute force to get it removed
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Old 04-11-2019, 12:39 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cliffyp View Post
I’m trying to get this d*mn crank position sensor out. Removed the bolt, and metal plate. Now it’s just the wires sticking out of the sensor. There is a tiny amount of play, but the thing just won’t come out. Before I grab wires and really start yanking, is there any other retention that I’m not aware of that’s keeping it in place?
Here is my thread on removing CPS *not very easy*.

https://www.dieselplace.com/forum/63...on-sensor.html

In my case, I need to take out the alternator and p/s bracket/pump to have better access from the top.
Ended up drilling it but crooked, then I can put like a curvy pick into the drilled hole and slowly pry it upward until there is enough part to hold it with a plier. I think I posted the picture on how the old CPS looks like.
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Old 04-11-2019, 01:32 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Oh by the way, please change the CPS first before doing TDC.

That combo of code is the same one I had when replacing the CPS.
That seems to solve the issue without doing any TDC.
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Old 04-11-2019, 03:26 PM   #19 (permalink)
cliffyp
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Ok, I think I have found the easiest way to get the CPS out. Get alternator and ps pump out of the way. No need to disconnect wires or hoses. Drill pilot hole in CPS. Get a 3.5” wood screw and screw in about 2”. Vise grips clamped to screw. Pull truck along side of vehicle so the headache rack lines up with CPS. Hook come-along to vise grips and other end to headache rack. About 3 cranks on the come-along and CPS pops right out.
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Old 04-11-2019, 06:14 PM   #20 (permalink)
cliffyp
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Well, new CPS and still codes 19 & 88. Other than an extended crank time to get started, the engine runs really nice. I’m also confused by the fact that the computer seems to reset back to zero on its own.

Fire up the engine, and gmtd scan tech shows 0 for tdc offset. “Learn” and then engine runs worse and now I have +2.02. Shut engine off and restart, it’s back to running really smooth (other than really long cranking) and scanner says tdc is back at 0.

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