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6.5L Diesel Engine Discuss the 6.5 GM diesel engine & associated components. Automatic transmission questions & problems belong in the 4L80/85 - 4L60E - 6L90 Transmission Forum

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Old 04-06-2018, 12:14 AM   #1 (permalink)
VikingTrad3r
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Intro first 6.5, recommendations welcome!!

Hi All. Bought my first diesel today. A 1993 mechanical injection, manual trans, 4x4, 2500 with 170k miles. It was a surveyors truck and is bone stock.

I bought it for an operator to use on our oil wells. Lots of highway miles. no real towing, in fact it doesnt even have a tow hitch reveiver mounted on but ill probably get that done. i wanted a diesel that would sip the fuel to bring our operating cost per barrel down.

didnt want the 94+

would have preferred the later interior style. but meh. one day maybe we will convert one to a mech.

it was either the mechanical 6.5 or the 7.3 idi or powerstroke. this truck amazingly has no rust.

question: this truck has the hood paint peeling and a bit on the passenger fromt quarter panel. but the steel hasnt rusted. it looks to be galvanized????

is it?


there is only one issue i can find with the truck: there is only 1 out of 4 speakers with sound. any clues before i scour the forums?

Any other regular items i should do to start? I drove it 2hrs home and it runs perfectly.


thanks guys, im a regular over at corvetteforum in the c4 section. with the. ettes i always pour over the rpo stickers. unfortunately the rpo sticker in this truck is hard to read as it was in the glove box and is rubbed out.

Nice to meet you guys and look fwd to keeping this truck performing for 100,000's more klm.

all comments and recommendations welcome to prep unit for steady service, not really tough hd work but steady reliable service.

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1993 ext cab mechanical injection, 6.5L
manual trans, 4x4, 2500 with 170k miles
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Old 04-06-2018, 12:39 AM   #2 (permalink)
VikingTrad3r
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thought i would try the truck at night.

couple small defficiencies to sort out:

a) interior dome light not turning on when opening the door. maybe my truck didnt come with that option.

b) backlights behind the headlight buttons and the hvac buttons not working (hvac works, led blend/temp display works, just backlights are out)

c) every couple minites while idling something must come on electronically somewhere because i can see the alternator gauge drop below 14v and the blower speed drops with it for the brief moment. then the extra draw must cease and the boltage needle returns to 14.7 ish.

Im 41 and as a kid i grew up in 6.2 and 6.5 diesel suburbans and it feels great to see the familiar rumble again.

comments welcome!

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1993 ext cab mechanical injection, 6.5L
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Old 04-06-2018, 05:44 AM   #3 (permalink)
vstech
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Welcome!
Nice looking ext.
The steel is not galvanized, but the primer they used usually stays when the paint peels. No clue why the two paints don't stick together, but it is an issue on GM's entire line...

The speakers fail.

Enjoy it.
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6.5block in 6.2 trim with a TH400 attached
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94 GMC extended cab long bed 6 lug truck 6.5L
Z71 ext cab standard bed S vin with a blown headgasket.
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Old 04-06-2018, 05:47 AM   #4 (permalink)
vstech
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Is there a switch on the door panel edge of the dash? My 94 driver's door button doesn't work well... 24 years of action must have worn it out. I can get my dome to Flickr if I jiggle it...
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6.5block in 6.2 trim with a TH400 attached
95 6.5 block, most of the IP, flywheel, and pressure plate.
95 Chevy Suburban 1500 "blue bomber"
2000 Chevrolet extended cab long bed 2500 6.5L HO
94 GMC extended cab long bed 6 lug truck 6.5L
Z71 ext cab standard bed S vin with a blown headgasket.
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Old 04-06-2018, 08:53 AM   #5 (permalink)
turbonator
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check your small actuating buttons on each side of the dash, where the doors press them closed; probably a little bit of dry graphite, or a bit of vaseline, then turn and rotate them and they will probably come back to life....

as for other things on the truck, check to be sure the front starter bracket is there and bolted to both the starter and the block, also, for preventative maintenance replace the black rubber hose on top of the IP with a clear hose to keep an eye on, any sort of air infiltration, any bubbles will equal issues down the road... do you see any signs that the injectors have been serviced lately? good place to start servicing, new injectors are always a good investment; if you have a stanadyne authorized shop close to you, or if you own your own tester, pull a couple and have them tested, better to know, than not to....BTW, nice survivor..........J&J....
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1998 gmc 3500 RCLB/4X4, 4L80E, DB2 converted, 6.2l #599 casting, bored .040", water-cooled garrett gt3271G turbo, CTS manifold, j-code intake, .290" IP, delphi injectors popped to 2300PSI with modded tips, 3" D.P., aero stainless muffler, triangle tip side pipe, Holley Red lift pump @ 5PSI, canton racing oil filter delete, remote filters, custom 5000psi gates oil cooler lines, over-sized long oil cooler, over-sized hayden tranny cooler, other than that its a "stock" engine....


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Old 04-06-2018, 11:55 AM   #6 (permalink)
JMJNet
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Check the fuses? Mine is there on the dash side facing the driver door.
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Leroy Diesel Flight System PMD
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Old 04-06-2018, 12:04 PM   #7 (permalink)
BigBill3
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Congrats on the purchase! Good looking truck!
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1993 Chevy C3500 Ext. Cab, long bed, DRW, 246k
NV4500 (that requires double clutching).
4:10 Rear end
My 1st diesel
Snorkel delete
Leroy's Diesel SS Oil Cooler Lines, Turbo Boost Bolt, Fuel Pressure Bolt
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Old 04-06-2018, 12:25 PM   #8 (permalink)
bk95td
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Nice looking truck! It seems that the clear coat wears off from the sun and being buffed out. Once it gets too thin it starts to let go.
Fuel economy should be better than a gas engine but not as good as a 6.2. X2 on the injectors. Worn injectors are the silent engine killers. They should be replaced every 100,000 miles or less. Insist on Genuine Bosch or Delphi parts.
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91 K2500LD reg cab 6.2 4L60 deceased at 310k
92 k2500hd 6.5 4L80E std cab died of frame cancer285 k
4- 93 k2500hd 6.5 2-4L80E 2-NV4500 2-ex-cab 2 std
94 K2500HD 6.5td 4L80E new reman engine
94 K2500HD 6.5td NV4500 Std cab LB
2-94 K1500 Ex cab 6.5TD 4L80E 1-LB parts truck 1-SB
94 k25000 Suburban 6.5td 4l80E
95 tahoe 2 dr 6.5 4L80E needs HG or engine
95 k2500LD 6.5 4L80E std cab bad trans
95 k2500hd 6.5 4L80E ex-cab
2-95 K2500 Suburban 6.5TD 4L80E both need engines
97 k2500hd 6.5 4L80E std cab
97 k3500 C&C 6.5 4L80E std cab needs engine
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Old 04-06-2018, 01:10 PM   #9 (permalink)
deejaaa
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check harmonic balancer and pulley.
rad hoses might be dry rot if original.
check serp belt for cracks.
voltage drop could be GP relay. does the light come on also?
you have the best of both worlds: man trans and mech IP.

from WIKI:
To enhance durability the trucks featured extensive use of galvanized steel for corrosion resistance and a fully welded frame with a boxed front section for strength and rigidity.[70]

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chevrolet_C/K
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"Member #1 of The A$$h0le Club" Your signature is most appropriate.
Black 93 1 ton crew cab, fuel/boost gauge, spin-on pre-FFM filter, 6.5 stock, 30 gal bed mounted tank,soon to be siphon tank, w/Goldenrod on feed, brought home 9/4/08, Turbo that starts with A, OEM crossover, quad headlights, reskinned door cards/headliner, 2 power-ports on lower dash, hour-meter, 235/85R16LT tires, GV unit(2K rpm at 68 mph w/4:10's), TCI EZ-TCU 4L80, working on DD Radio install, OEM tank removed but soon replaced.
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...get it under control or someone might cave in your head someday.....People get killed everyday because of attitudes like yours. All it takes is running into the wrong person at the wrong time. You shoot off your mouth and they shoot off your head and suddenly you're pushing up daisies.

Last edited by deejaaa; 04-06-2018 at 01:19 PM.
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Old 04-06-2018, 03:49 PM   #10 (permalink)
VikingTrad3r
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Thanks Guys. I think was a base model truck and there is no dome light switch that activates the interior light with an open door.

I have my suspicions about the tstat either missing or being stuck open. the gauge does move and after a while it eventually reach 69C or 156F. I suspect missing or open tstat. evause i start to get heat from my heater rather quickly. Its like the fluid is circulating right from the start. I mention the cool running because it might affect responses about the following:

Here is a symptom from cold starting today in -20C / -2F without being plugged in overnight. It started as i remember my fathers did in the mid 90's. Rough, with plenty of white smoke. It started on my second try after giving the glow plugs thier requested time. I thought that was pretty good considering it wasnt plugged in, my understanding is that when temps are well below freezing starting these 6.5/6.2's without plugging in is nearly impossible but i might be wrong.

Ive read that white smoke can be glow plugs. I also read it could be a bit of air in the fuel supply lines.

Then if you get continued white smoke while driving it can be injectors providing too much fuel (stuck partially open).

In my case i get white smoke for a while even after ive started driving. It eventually goes away and appears to be correlated with engine temps. The warmer, the less white smoke.


my path to correction was going to be as follows:


i would like to install new injectors and glow plugs. what is the best make and model of each based on the collective experience here?

Check all fuel lines for pliable rubber and replace all stiff or cracked ones.

What else does this sound like to you guys?

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1993 ext cab mechanical injection, 6.5L
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