I am working on the 1994 K3500 6.5 diesel. Replacing ball joints..
I had the left front wheel bearing replaced not to awful long ago.
They screwed up. Apparently they did not get the grease cup on the half axle slid in properly and it was all folded over - which in turn ripped off the back of the seal.
Can I buy the grease cup for the half axle to replace it?
The seal does not look replaceable to me. I thought I had read before that those seals could be replaced.
By the looks of an old - half pulled apart bearing I have here - it looks like the inner seal is inside of the the inner half of the front wheel bearing on a 1994 K3500 4x4.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
My plan is to just pack the seal with grease, put it back together and run it until the bearing pukes.
On 2nd thought I may just fill the inside of the seal with caulk or The Right Stuff
But I really need the grease cup for the half axle to give it any chance of living for a while.
Ok, your right, the wheel bearing assembly Is 133 ft-lb, I was thinking the bearing sheilds, which I don't think the independent front suspension had.
And yeah, you'll need to order another half shaft- but here's the kicker, only GM factory ones "may" come it, no aftermarket ones do- even new ones, rebuild cores are hit and miss. I had to find one for a 1500 recently...ended up at a junk yard and pulled a busted axle out...paid more then I should have for a small part.
I've decided about my only route may be to do some measuring. Get the inside and outside diameters and make a trip to Motion Industries. If that is still what they call it. Might have to post on Facebook and ask first
If a I find a seal with the correct dimensions I think I can gut it and use it.
I cannot find a part # for that part.
Closest GM gets to repair parts for the CV axles is this kit -
26037364 or 26020728
You can get complete axles new for less than 100.00.
Could be worse...if you need the rubber bushings that go in the frame on the passenger side, for the front axle mount, according to GM you need to buy a whole new frame (at least for a GMT-800)...
I've heard a few bad things about doing that. Somethings that do not necessarily show up right away. Damage to the front differential. Damage to the CV's.
Torque Spec for the front caliper hose /banjo bolt 33 ft lbs.
I ordered the Stainless brake hose kit CT1012 from inlinetube.com
Looks OK. Did not come with the mount by the ball joint.
The Russel kit 672370 looks to be the same as the inline tube kit. It also does not come with the mount by the ball joint - Kind of a PIA to swap it over.
The Russel Kit is cheaper. Don't know if that is for good reason or not
I would recommend against the Russell kit. I got the set for my truck, and:
-it came with cheap aluminum washers (vs copper ones)
-the ends were just straight (vs other kits that are bent to match the OEM connections)
-no middle support for the two front hoses (others have them, and they can flop against the tire if not restrained)
-the rear lines were the wrong length. One line was slightly short (goes right on the caliper bracket), the other was significantly too long and rubbed through against the tire
I'll check which CV 1/2 axle I got from Rock Auto, JR. I just had to snap the external ABS ring off of it but the quality looked really good. While we're talking about all this stuff, I learned a painful lesson this week. I replaced the ball joints and tie rods on my Impala like 6 months ago and guess what? I think the control arm bushings are shot. God Dam it!!!!! Do you think I could have replaced the whole control arm with the ball joint already installed for $40 more bucks? Noooooooooooo. Wish I had known at the time that these were the worst rivets in the world to get out. Rant over.
I think my upper control arm bushings were bad do to the front bolt not being tight. The rear bushing was still good. The front bolt had grooves wore in it from slopping around. I am surprised the nut never worked it's way off.
When getting ready to loosen the bolt, I first tried my long handle ratchet, I was surprised when I met zero resistance. It was close to finger tight. I think it was just dirt/rust that kept me from just spinning the nut off with my fingers. I believe the wobble that wore the bolt was what took out the front bushing. It wasn't terrible, but had perceptible movement
I guess the free alignment with the set of tires wasn't such a good deal
That was 30,000 miles ago or so. Kind of hard to go back on them now
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
Diesel Place
5.3M posts
218.8K members
Since 2003
A forum community dedicated to Chevrolet and GMC diesel truck owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about duramax engines, performance, builds, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!