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6.5L Diesel Engine Discuss the 6.5 GM diesel engine & associated components. Automatic transmission questions & problems belong in the 4L80/85 - 4L60E - 6L90 Transmission Forum

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Old 01-17-2018, 11:37 PM   #11 (permalink)
DieselPro
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beak7707 View Post
Thanks guys. I found Holset's tolerances, says .0013-.0020" for side to side shaft play. ?
That's probably .013" to .020" measured with a feeler gauge on the compressor wheel. Think you added a "0" to many. Specs I gave above were my "best guess" and actual bearing clearance. Side clearance to be accurate must be done by taking the turbo apart and measuring the components.


Feeler gauge method requires pushing the wheel to the side and measuring clearance and then pushing the other way and checking. Subtract one from the other.

Dial indicator will be more elaborate.

Something looks terribly wrong with your turbo. Most inlet diffusers match up better with the compressor wheel, yours has a very sharp edge?


Last edited by DieselPro; 01-17-2018 at 11:52 PM.
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Old 01-18-2018, 12:12 AM   #12 (permalink)
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On my second view of your turbo the inlet housing looks like it may be tapered in. Looks squared off in photo.

I would not use a spring wastegate. Modify the one you have to suit, or get one with the appropriate pressure.

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Old 01-18-2018, 12:49 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Why not use the spring wastegate? I was afraid the one with the turbo would build too much boost, where the spring one I can set wherever I want.
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Old 01-18-2018, 08:56 AM   #14 (permalink)
turbonator
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side to side play is also based on how much force is applied to make it happen, i have actually read about guys thinking they had to much, and it turned out they were forcing it to much and had actually dinted the brass bushings.... rule of thumb for me is to gently place only my thumb on the end of the shaft and gently move it side to side, and only after i have pre-oiled, and spun it a few rotations first...J&J
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Old 01-18-2018, 11:25 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beak7707 View Post
Why not use the spring wastegate? I was afraid the one with the turbo would build too much boost, where the spring one I can set wherever I want.
The factory wastegate is way more precise verses one that blows off with drive pressure. Quite sure the OEM wastegate is set for a higher pressure. Sometimes they can be tweaked with the threaded rod to something useable. Easy to set, just need a air regulator and a low pressure gauge and you can set boost pressure basically on the bench. Just when the valve opens about quarter wide open will be the pressure on the truck. Final tweaking is done on the truck.

The spring pop off type valve setup has a gradual pop-off. In effect if your running close to desired pressure the thing has been open for some time which in my opinion is inefficient. So each his on, I'll stick with the factory on this one. Nice purchase!
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Old 01-19-2018, 07:56 AM   #16 (permalink)
turbonator
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with any dual volute, gated, turbine housing that is not cross-drilled, even the boost controlled wastegate begins to "creep" open well before the maximum pressure on the pod is achieved, due to it only gating one volute.... most of the reasoning in using a spring-gate mechanical styled actuator in this app. is to leave extra space as to not interfere with the airbox/intake ducting.....J&J..
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Building power "Sanford and Son Style"

1998 gmc 3500 RCLB/4X4, 4L80E, DB2 converted, 6.2l #599 casting, bored .040", water-cooled garrett gt3271G turbo, CTS manifold, j-code intake, .290" IP, delphi injectors popped to 2300PSI with modded tips, 3" D.P., aero stainless muffler, triangle tip side pipe, Holley Red lift pump @ 5PSI, canton racing oil filter delete, remote filters, custom 5000psi gates oil cooler lines, over-sized long oil cooler, over-sized hayden tranny cooler, other than that its a "stock" engine....


acolytes of the "aggressive buddist's" principles since march 13th 2014
jim&jeff....

Last edited by turbonator; 01-19-2018 at 07:57 AM.
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