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6.5L Diesel Engine Discuss the 6.5 GM diesel engine & associated components. Automatic transmission questions & problems belong in the 4L80/85 - 4L60E - 6L90 Transmission Forum

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Old 09-23-2017, 09:19 PM   #1 (permalink)
OldGrit
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94 6.5 TD 4L80E to NV3500 swap

I'm new here but I've tried to navigate the forum and see if other people have had the same issue and can't seem to find it, if someone could point me in the right direction or give me some helpful advice it would be much appreciated. I got a 94 6.5 TD K1500 Chevy 190k miles with the 4L80E for free because the previous owner couldn't get it to run but it sat for 10 years before I got it. Long story short I replaced the starter, batteries, flywheel, fuel filter, crank sensor, PMD (and relocated), engine temp sensor, U-joints, oil and filter, drove it for 2 years no issues. @222k miles I started having problems with the 4L80E and after checking around it was going to cost about 1,700-2,400 for a shop to fix it. Honestly I plan on keeping this truck so I want to make it like I want it and I have no interest in trying to fix an automatic so I did some research and a lot of measuring, found a NV3500. Rebuilt the NV3500 (everything new except the gears, shift forks, detent and shafts). Installed it in my truck (including appropriate flywheel etc... Drove fine for a few days not doing anything stressful even though i had transmission codes(72 trans output speed sensor, 74 trans input speed sensor circuit, 81 and 82 shift solenoid B and A, lastly 83 Torque converter driver module/ TCC solenoid failure) because it's not there, service engine light wasn't on even though codes we're present, no drivability issues. Then I experienced hard to start, rough idle(rpm serging), loss of power, stalling. Found I had a fuel leak, was very visible forming a spot on the ground just behind the rear of the motor which turned out to be the filter housing, replaced it along with the fuel hoses and since I was breaking the line I replaced the lift pump for GP because I don't know when or if it had ever been replaced. Bled the air from the fuel line suppling power to the lift pump from the OBD 1 plug. Starts good, idles good but still having loss of power, no throttle response sometimes at idle. If I shut off the truck then start it back up it runs good for a little bit then starts acting up again. Checked DTC's and I have codes, 33 MAP sensor shorted/high, 35 injector pulse width error, 73 force motor run and 99 pedal position 2 (5 volt reference fault). So far I have replaced the crankshaft position sensor because if bad can cause an array of driveability and running issues without the code for it being present (I know this from personal experience when I first got the truck). I have replaced the air filter, tried a known good PMD, checked the wires going to the MAP sensor, they appear fine no corrosion or broken terminals so I tried unplugging the sensor while it's running and no change, not sure if that is important but I thought I would add that. I'm really at a loss, I know I have fuel pressure because the truck will start fine and idle all day long, drives good for a little bit then act up. Once I cycle the key off on it's runs good again for a little bit.

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Old 09-24-2017, 12:24 AM   #2 (permalink)
tugboat94
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Replace the fuel lime at the injection pump with a clear line to check for air bubbles. If not dine right it can take forever to get the air out of the system. Also if you have down time. After 10 years I'd pull the intake manifold off and replace both lines going from the fuel filter housing to the injection pump and the water bleeder. Pull the fuel line at the injection pump there is a little filter screen in that fitting. Remove it and clean it. You could have good fuel supply but a clogged inlet making it starve....?

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Old 09-24-2017, 02:28 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Thanks for the reply tugboat, I was unaware about the screen at the IP as I didn't see it yesterday when working on it. Although I have already replaced all the rubber fuel lines going to and from the filter housing including the return just yesterday, but I will find find some clear hose or something clear and fuel resistant to stick inline to inspect for bubbles. I will keep you updated on my progress.
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Old 09-24-2017, 02:38 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldGrit View Post
Thanks for the reply tugboat, I was unaware about the screen at the IP as I didn't see it yesterday when working on it. Although I have already replaced all the rubber fuel lines going to and from the filter housing including the return just yesterday, but I will find find some clear hose or something clear and fuel resistant to stick inline to inspect for bubbles. I will keep you updated on my progress.
There are a couple of "Last ditch" screens to help protect the IP.

First one is inside of the Fuel Filter Manager, there is a small screen located at the bottom.

The second is just under the Fuel inlet on top of the IP.
You remove the fuel inlet hose off the IP and wrench off the inlet to expose the screen.

For the clear line, you can use Tygon line found in the lawnmower section of most auto parts or home improvement stores

Here is a link showing where to install the clear line:
https://www.dieselplace.com/forum/63-...ml#post7305306
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Old 09-24-2017, 04:41 PM   #5 (permalink)
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When replacing the starter, did you make sure that the rear starter bracket (towards the front of the truck) still there?

If not, that will be your culprit since you said you replace the starter and flywheel?
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Old 09-24-2017, 08:16 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Ok so when I took off the hose at the IP and then unscrewed the inlet nipple I saw what looked like a metal ring below the threads that leads down to a small hole. Does the metal ring come out or is the screen suppose to be on top of that?
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Old 09-24-2017, 08:23 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JMJNet View Post
When replacing the starter, did you make sure that the rear starter bracket (towards the front of the truck) still there?

If not, that will be your culprit since you said you replace the starter and flywheel?
Truck starts as it should since I fixed my fuel leak from the filter housing, but the bracket is there on the starter.
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Old 09-24-2017, 08:42 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldGrit View Post
Ok so when I took off the hose at the IP and then unscrewed the inlet nipple I saw what looked like a metal ring below the threads that leads down to a small hole. Does the metal ring come out or is the screen suppose to be on top of that?
The inlet screen is below
Here is a pic for reference
https://www.dieselplace.com/forum/63-...ml#post9203866
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1996 K3500 6.5L,( "F" Eng #141 cast block) 5 speed manual, crewcab, dually longbed: 208,000mi.
Diamond Eye 4" Turbo Back Exhaust w/2.5" Flo-Pro Crossover
AirDog II DF165 w/ tank sock delete - XDP
TD-Max boost controller - Kennedy Diesel
OPS extension hose - Leroy Diesel
Glow Plug Harness- PT Wiring Solutions
Glowshift Maxtow EGT,Boost, Fuel gauges
Boost & Fuel Pressure Bolts - Leroy Diesel
2/0 Battery Cable Upgrade - PT Wiring Solutions
PMD w/#9 resistor and Re-Location Kit, mounted to bumper - Leroy Diesel
GM-5 Turbocharger
4.10 gear ratio
OptiLube summer + Formula


Proud member #1039 of The 3500 Dually Club


Last edited by OkDually; 09-24-2017 at 08:42 PM.
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Old 09-24-2017, 08:52 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Here is the Stanadyne DS IP Operating and Instruction Manual in .pdf format for your computer
The IP inlet screen is on page #19. Follow steps 11,12 and 13 to remove it. Be care of the Orings
https://www.dieselplace.com/forum/***...ion-manual.pdf
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1996 K3500 6.5L,( "F" Eng #141 cast block) 5 speed manual, crewcab, dually longbed: 208,000mi.
Diamond Eye 4" Turbo Back Exhaust w/2.5" Flo-Pro Crossover
AirDog II DF165 w/ tank sock delete - XDP
TD-Max boost controller - Kennedy Diesel
OPS extension hose - Leroy Diesel
Glow Plug Harness- PT Wiring Solutions
Glowshift Maxtow EGT,Boost, Fuel gauges
Boost & Fuel Pressure Bolts - Leroy Diesel
2/0 Battery Cable Upgrade - PT Wiring Solutions
PMD w/#9 resistor and Re-Location Kit, mounted to bumper - Leroy Diesel
GM-5 Turbocharger
4.10 gear ratio
OptiLube summer + Formula


Proud member #1039 of The 3500 Dually Club


Last edited by OkDually; 09-24-2017 at 08:53 PM.
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Old 09-26-2017, 10:15 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Update; ok I Installed a clear hose to check for air in the fuel line, no air in the line. Checked the screen for debris, screen was pretty clean surprisingly given it probably has never been checked or cleaned. Went over everything that I touched electrical wise, and found the resistor wasn't making a good connection in the PMD. So I replaced the resistor and the truck starts great and runs great. But I am still getting the MAP sensor code and force motor code. Should I worry about this since the truck operates normally?

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