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6.5L Diesel Engine Discuss the 6.5 GM diesel engine & associated components. Automatic transmission questions & problems belong in the 4L80/85 - 4L60E - 6L90 Transmission Forum

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Old 11-21-2016, 07:34 PM   #1 (permalink)
luistombo
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Dead Water Pump

Hi! Long time without posting here...

Last week I started having a screeching noise from the front of the engine. Also the belt started to break and shred. I suspected new bracket problems, as in the past. First it was the left side, holding the compressor, years later it was the right side one, holding the alternator.

I removed the belt and found this in the pump pulley: https://youtu.be/ENOSRuxBcTA

I've had minor water leak for years, and I haven't noticed it being more severe lately... Should I replace the whole pump? Should I just change the bearing?

Is there a thread describing the removal? Will I need gaskets? I am in South America, so I need to plan ahead all parts purchases... They may take weeks to arrive. Meanwhile I can only watch the water level daily, and I hear the belt being slowly breaking, about to collapse. I carry a new belt with me all the time and I will be just driving around town, of course...

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1998 K1500 Suburban LT - Z71 pack
6.5L TD
(Canadian version)
125.000 miles
Bumper-Mounted FSD

Argentina (South America)
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Old 11-21-2016, 07:50 PM   #2 (permalink)
luistombo
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Just in case it is relevant, just 6 months~2000 miles ago I had the crankshaft pulley and the HB replaced and everything was fine. Also the pulley is not the original, it was hand made in a lathe shop some 4 years ago. The original one had died a horrid and unexplained death. And I could not find without purchasing a whole pump. IDK how the pulley+propeller is attached to the pump shaft, perhaps it is only loose??

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1998 K1500 Suburban LT - Z71 pack
6.5L TD
(Canadian version)
125.000 miles
Bumper-Mounted FSD

Argentina (South America)
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Old 11-21-2016, 08:40 PM   #3 (permalink)
alpacalips
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Wow that doesn't look good! The fan clutch and pulley are held onto the water pump flange by the 4 studs and nuts you can see in your video. It doesn't look like they are loose though, it looks like the whole water pump shaft is wobbling.

Since you have to drain the coolant to replace the water pump its a good time to pull the radiator out and clean it, which is pretty easy and will give you more room to work on the water pump. Not all new water pumps come with a new bypass nipple, which threads into the water pump. If it doesn't come with one, you have to remove the one from your old pump and reuse it or buy a new one. Mine was quite difficult to remove but it came out with a big socket and an impact gun. Water pumps up to '98 don't come with a pulley, so if something is wrong with your custom made pulley you might have to find a new one. '99+ switched to a pressed-on pulley and a thread-on fan clutch.
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SOLD 1996 K2500, 220xxx miles, VIN F 6.5TD, 4L80E, 4.10 axles, Diamond Eye 4" exhaust & 2-1/2" cross-over, Lubrication Specialists oil cooler lines, '97 water pump, single ACDelco thermostat, modified stock fan clutch.

2007 Silverado 2500HD, 6.0, 6L90, 4x4
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Old 11-21-2016, 09:00 PM   #4 (permalink)
OkDually
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Quote:
Originally Posted by luistombo View Post
Hi! Long time without posting here...

Last week I started having a screeching noise from the front of the engine. Also the belt started to break and shred. I suspected new bracket problems, as in the past. First it was the left side, holding the compressor, years later it was the right side one, holding the alternator.

I removed the belt and found this in the pump pulley: https://youtu.be/ENOSRuxBcTA

I've had minor water leak for years, and I haven't noticed it being more severe lately... Should I replace the whole pump? Should I just change the bearing?

Is there a thread describing the removal? Will I need gaskets? I am in South America, so I need to plan ahead all parts purchases... They may take weeks to arrive. Meanwhile I can only watch the water level daily, and I hear the belt being slowly breaking, about to collapse. I carry a new belt with me all the time and I will be just driving around town, of course...
You will need to change out the whole pump..
__________________
1996 K3500 6.5L,( "F" Eng #141 cast block) 5 speed manual, crewcab, dually longbed: 208,000mi.
Diamond Eye 4" Turbo Back Exhaust w/2.5" Flo-Pro Crossover
AirDog II DF165 w/ tank sock delete - XDP
TD-Max boost controller - Kennedy Diesel
OPS extension hose - Leroy Diesel
Glow Plug Harness- PT Wiring Solutions
Glowshift Maxtow EGT,Boost, Fuel gauges
Boost & Fuel Pressure Bolts - Leroy Diesel
2/0 Battery Cable Upgrade - PT Wiring Solutions
PMD w/#9 resistor and Re-Location Kit, mounted to bumper - Leroy Diesel
GM-5 Turbocharger
4.10 gear ratio
OptiLube summer + Formula


Proud member #1039 of The 3500 Dually Club


Last edited by OkDually; 11-21-2016 at 09:02 PM.
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Old 11-21-2016, 09:09 PM   #5 (permalink)
OkDually
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Water pump listed in the part Section is shown as:
4 Bolt 130 Gal/Min AC Delco: #252717

Here is the 1998 C/K truck manual, Section 6, Engine cooling and electrical in pdf. format for you to save on your computer.
https://www.dieselplace.com/forum/***...electrical.pdf
__________________
1996 K3500 6.5L,( "F" Eng #141 cast block) 5 speed manual, crewcab, dually longbed: 208,000mi.
Diamond Eye 4" Turbo Back Exhaust w/2.5" Flo-Pro Crossover
AirDog II DF165 w/ tank sock delete - XDP
TD-Max boost controller - Kennedy Diesel
OPS extension hose - Leroy Diesel
Glow Plug Harness- PT Wiring Solutions
Glowshift Maxtow EGT,Boost, Fuel gauges
Boost & Fuel Pressure Bolts - Leroy Diesel
2/0 Battery Cable Upgrade - PT Wiring Solutions
PMD w/#9 resistor and Re-Location Kit, mounted to bumper - Leroy Diesel
GM-5 Turbocharger
4.10 gear ratio
OptiLube summer + Formula


Proud member #1039 of The 3500 Dually Club

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Old 11-21-2016, 09:53 PM   #6 (permalink)
luistombo
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Thank you alpacalips, and OkDually for your info!
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Old 11-25-2016, 11:39 PM   #7 (permalink)
luistombo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OkDually View Post
Water pump listed in the part Section is shown as:
4 Bolt 130 Gal/Min AC Delco: #252717

Here is the 1998 C/K truck manual, Section 6, Engine cooling and electrical in pdf. format for you to save on your computer.
https://www.dieselplace.com/forum/***...electrical.pdf
Also, I have been studying the need for the special 47mm wrench to remove the fan-clutch assembly. Is there another quick and dirty way to do it? 47mm is a very rare size, here I only can find up to 36 mm...
__________________
-------------------------------------
Luis

1998 K1500 Suburban LT - Z71 pack
6.5L TD
(Canadian version)
125.000 miles
Bumper-Mounted FSD

Argentina (South America)
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Old 11-26-2016, 12:20 AM   #8 (permalink)
alpacalips
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You don't need any special tools to remove the fan clutch. It's just four nuts, 13 mm I think. It's only on the later years (99+?) that the water pump shaft is threaded and the clutch spins onto it.
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SOLD 1996 K2500, 220xxx miles, VIN F 6.5TD, 4L80E, 4.10 axles, Diamond Eye 4" exhaust & 2-1/2" cross-over, Lubrication Specialists oil cooler lines, '97 water pump, single ACDelco thermostat, modified stock fan clutch.

2007 Silverado 2500HD, 6.0, 6L90, 4x4
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Old 11-26-2016, 12:33 AM   #9 (permalink)
OkDually
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Quote:
Originally Posted by luistombo View Post
Also, I have been studying the need for the special 47mm wrench to remove the fan-clutch assembly. Is there another quick and dirty way to do it? 47mm is a very rare size, here I only can find up to 36 mm...
alpacalips is correct. It should be just four 13mm nuts.


In the video that you posted, you have the one that bolts on.
__________________
1996 K3500 6.5L,( "F" Eng #141 cast block) 5 speed manual, crewcab, dually longbed: 208,000mi.
Diamond Eye 4" Turbo Back Exhaust w/2.5" Flo-Pro Crossover
AirDog II DF165 w/ tank sock delete - XDP
TD-Max boost controller - Kennedy Diesel
OPS extension hose - Leroy Diesel
Glow Plug Harness- PT Wiring Solutions
Glowshift Maxtow EGT,Boost, Fuel gauges
Boost & Fuel Pressure Bolts - Leroy Diesel
2/0 Battery Cable Upgrade - PT Wiring Solutions
PMD w/#9 resistor and Re-Location Kit, mounted to bumper - Leroy Diesel
GM-5 Turbocharger
4.10 gear ratio
OptiLube summer + Formula


Proud member #1039 of The 3500 Dually Club

Online   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-26-2016, 11:12 AM   #10 (permalink)
VanBoy
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A gasket is not needed, if you have that "make a gasket" stuff/goop. In the old days, I use to get gasket material and make my own for projects.... but it would be wise to get a gasket. There are actually two gaskets. One is the backing plate to pump and the other is the backing plate to block. I don't recall if the pump can come off w/out the backing plate or if you take it off as an assembly and then move the plate.....

Your pump is beyond toast.... mine hand a wobble, but NOT that bad. Mine, when removed, already had the impeller rubbing on the inside of the housing. Also, the clearance between the pump and back cover is not much, so it might be rubbing there also. Also, the longer you run it, the longer you risk the shaft breaking. And if that breaks, your fan will fly into your radiator....

__________________
1999 Ford E-350 7.3L Power Stroke Club Wagon, 3.55
1990 Ford E-350 7.3L IDI Club Wagon, 3.54LS x2
1994 Chevrolet C2500 6.5L TD, 3.42
1981 VW Rabbit Pickup 1.6L N/A x2
1978 VW Rabbit 1.5L N/A

================================================== ==
140amp 1996 alt. May 2016 / HO Water pump, Fan Clutch (used OEM), Crank Pulley-Aug 2015 /Stanadyne PMD installed 6/13 replaced- reinstalled D-Tech ,Soot Trap Delete Jan 18, 2014 / Heath TurboMaster Dec 22, 2013 / New OPS (BWD), OPS Relay mod,
black Stanadyne PMD w/ #5-June 2013 / Dorman relocation kit, D-Tech PMD to bumper, #9 resistor- Jan 2013 / Carter Lift Pump, P74143 10-15psi, 32gph- Dec 2012 / Brought home Dec 17, 2012

Other then that, the Chevy is STOCK.

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