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Old 09-17-2016, 05:42 PM   #1 (permalink)
YoungGunDiesel
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1994 k3500 Lift pump relay

Hey all, I tried to use google and the search function here but I cannot seem to just get a clear picture showing me where the lift pump relay is so I can jump it with a peice of wire so I can prime my truck and see if it's at least working.

Long story short I bought a 1994 k3500 Crew cab dually with 207k Miles on it. But hey, can't go wrong for 500$.

The reason why it was so cheap was cause the truck started to misfire on one of the cylinders and then the owner let it sit since 2004...yes sadly for 12 years it has sat. Now he sold it to me but it doesn't even run anymore. Cranks over but doesn't even attempt to run and doesn't get fuel to cylinders. How do I know this?

Well I don't, it's just a assumption based on the fact when it's cranking there's absolutely no smoke from the tail pipe at all. So I'm assuming there's no fuel getting to the cylinders.

The last owner said it's cause the fuel lines under the intake between the injection pump and fuel bowl where leaking and cracked.

Well it's at my house now and I removed the intake manifold and I can tell there was small leaks from the fuel lines and from the bottom of the fuel bowl but no lines where broken completely.

Now I plan to put all new lines back on and Google a fuel bowl rebuild kit (need the little o-ring in the side and the big o-ring on the bottom) and put it all back together but once it's back to tether I will need to know exactly where the fuel pump relay is so I can prime the truck without cranking it for a half hour. Now I know my 1997 had the relay in the drivers side fuse box and was simple enough. I also know that the relay for the 1994 is somewhere on the passenger firewall but I'm not sure exactly what to be looking at. So to sum up my very lengthy story. Simple question is does anyone have a photo pointing it out for me? Thank you in advanced.

P.s any input on my overall dilemma is appreciated.

P.s.s I hope it isn't the injection pump, cause all the lines had diesel in them when I removed them, so some fuel HAD to have made it to the cylinders but hey didn't.

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Old 09-17-2016, 06:10 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YoungGunDiesel2 View Post
Hey all, I tried to use google and the search function here but I cannot seem to just get a clear picture showing me where the lift pump relay is so I can jump it with a peice of wire so I can prime my truck and see if it's at least working.

Long story short I bought a 1994 k3500 Crew cab dually with 207k Miles on it. But hey, can't go wrong for 500$.

The reason why it was so cheap was cause the truck started to misfire on one of the cylinders and then the owner let it sit since 2004...yes sadly for 12 years it has sat. Now he sold it to me but it doesn't even run anymore. Cranks over but doesn't even attempt to run and doesn't get fuel to cylinders. How do I know this?

Well I don't, it's just a assumption based on the fact when it's cranking there's absolutely no smoke from the tail pipe at all. So I'm assuming there's no fuel getting to the cylinders.

The last owner said it's cause the fuel lines under the intake between the injection pump and fuel bowl where leaking and cracked.

Well it's at my house now and I removed the intake manifold and I can tell there was small leaks from the fuel lines and from the bottom of the fuel bowl but no lines where broken completely.

Now I plan to put all new lines back on and Google a fuel bowl rebuild kit (need the little o-ring in the side and the big o-ring on the bottom) and put it all back together but once it's back to tether I will need to know exactly where the fuel pump relay is so I can prime the truck without cranking it for a half hour. Now I know my 1997 had the relay in the drivers side fuse box and was simple enough. I also know that the relay for the 1994 is somewhere on the passenger firewall but I'm not sure exactly what to be looking at. So to sum up my very lengthy story. Simple question is does anyone have a photo pointing it out for me? Thank you in advanced.

P.s any input on my overall dilemma is appreciated.

P.s.s I hope it isn't the injection pump, cause all the lines had diesel in them when I removed them, so some fuel HAD to have made it to the cylinders but hey didn't.

Welcome to the forum

Here is the link to properly jump your lift pump for your 94'
https://www.dieselplace.com/forum/63-...ml#post6784033

The 1994+ Model Year lift pump should deliver fuel with a minimum volume of at least 0.24 liter (1/2 pint) in 15 seconds and pressure of 3 psi minimum

Also, go through all of your grounds using this link for reference

https://www.dieselplace.com/forum/63-...d-grounds.html

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Last edited by OkDually; 09-17-2016 at 06:11 PM.
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Old 09-17-2016, 06:13 PM   #3 (permalink)
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The O-Rings you need to rebuild your FFM are:
Fuel Filter Heater O Ring - GM: 12511962
Water In Fuel O Ring - GM: 12511959
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1996 K3500 6.5L,( "F" Eng #141 cast block) 5 speed manual, crewcab, dually longbed: 208,000mi.
Diamond Eye 4" Turbo Back Exhaust w/2.5" Flo-Pro Crossover
AirDog II DF165 w/ tank sock delete - XDP
TD-Max boost controller - Kennedy Diesel
OPS extension hose - Leroy Diesel
Glow Plug Harness- PT Wiring Solutions
Glowshift Maxtow EGT,Boost, Fuel gauges
Boost & Fuel Pressure Bolts - Leroy Diesel
2/0 Battery Cable Upgrade - PT Wiring Solutions
PMD w/#9 resistor and Re-Location Kit, mounted to bumper - Leroy Diesel
GM-5 Turbocharger
4.10 gear ratio
OptiLube summer + Formula


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Old 09-17-2016, 06:15 PM   #4 (permalink)
Glagulator
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Easiest way to prime the LP on a 94.


https://www.dieselplace.com/forum/***...1&d=1474150467
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File Type: jpg OBD1-DLC-LP-PRIME.jpg (34.4 KB, 65 views)
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Old 09-17-2016, 08:08 PM   #5 (permalink)
YoungGunDiesel
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Thanks! You guys are awesome! So I tested it and the lift pump is working epically! So now I must move on to my next issue is why it doesn't fire or even attempt to. No smoke from tail pipe or anything noise of firing.
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Old 09-18-2016, 06:55 AM   #6 (permalink)
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After sitting so long you will mostly likely need to rebuild the entire fuel system. Probably everything but the tank and injection pump. If you get it running you'll be chasing issues until it is rebuilt. Start with those soft lines and install a clear line off the top of the ip (1/4" id clear)
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Old 09-18-2016, 09:43 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YoungGunDiesel2 View Post
Thanks! You guys are awesome! So I tested it and the lift pump is working epically! So now I must move on to my next issue is why it doesn't fire or even attempt to. No smoke from tail pipe or anything noise of firing.
Try changing the PMD with another "known working" PMD w/resistor.(make sure you have a resistor installed!)
Change the Fuel Filter and clean and check the screen manager down inside of the bottom of the Fuel filter manager.
Batteries must be a matched set of equal cranking CCA's and fully charged.
Also, try unplugging the coolant temp sensor on top of the coolant crossover to fool the PCM for longer glow time.
If the vehicle starts, be sure to plug it back in immediately .

If still no start, Open your fuel cap then disconnect the Fuel line at the lift pump and blow Compressed air in the fuel line that goes to the tank to clear out the tank sock.
Then reconnect the line, leaving the fuel cap off and try starting the vehicle.
__________________
1996 K3500 6.5L,( "F" Eng #141 cast block) 5 speed manual, crewcab, dually longbed: 208,000mi.
Diamond Eye 4" Turbo Back Exhaust w/2.5" Flo-Pro Crossover
AirDog II DF165 w/ tank sock delete - XDP
TD-Max boost controller - Kennedy Diesel
OPS extension hose - Leroy Diesel
Glow Plug Harness- PT Wiring Solutions
Glowshift Maxtow EGT,Boost, Fuel gauges
Boost & Fuel Pressure Bolts - Leroy Diesel
2/0 Battery Cable Upgrade - PT Wiring Solutions
PMD w/#9 resistor and Re-Location Kit, mounted to bumper - Leroy Diesel
GM-5 Turbocharger
4.10 gear ratio
OptiLube summer + Formula


Proud member #1039 of The 3500 Dually Club

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Old 09-18-2016, 10:48 AM   #8 (permalink)
YoungGunDiesel
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JCDiesel View Post
After sitting so long you will mostly likely need to rebuild the entire fuel system. Probably everything but the tank and injection pump. If you get it running you'll be chasing issues until it is rebuilt. Start with those soft lines and install a clear line off the top of the ip (1/4" id clear)
I'm willing to put in the arm work and money to do that, as long as it isn't the injection pump that's bad, the cost of a new pump is just outrageous.

Quote:
Originally Posted by okdually
Try changing the PMD with another "known working" PMD w/resistor.(make sure you have a resistor installed!)
Change the Fuel Filter and clean and check the screen manager down inside of the bottom of the Fuel filter manager.
Batteries must be a matched set of equal cranking CCA's and fully charged.
Also, try unplugging the coolant temp sensor on top of the coolant crossover to fool the PCM for longer glow time.
If the vehicle starts, be sure to plug it back in immediately .

If still no start, Open your fuel cap then disconnect the Fuel line at the lift pump and blow Compressed air in the fuel line that goes to the tank to clear out the tank sock.
Then reconnect the line, leaving the fuel cap off and try starting the vehicle.
Well good news is I have a new FSD Pmd and relocator kit that I'll pop on real quick.

But speaking of Batteries, I don't have a single 6.5 that cranks over "fast" they all have a "eh" cranking speed. Just Fast enough where you don't think your batteries are dead but not as fast as lets say a gas engine or a new diesel I.e Duramax whips over with two new batteries.

But yes the batteries are brand new and both matching (850 CCA)

Again, thank you all for your detailed and quick responses. No other form has been this helpful or "alive" ha-ha

Last edited by YoungGunDiesel; 09-18-2016 at 10:51 AM.
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Old 09-18-2016, 01:30 PM   #9 (permalink)
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The stock Delco MT28 Gear Reduction starter likes to be taken apart, cleaned out, greased and re-installed. Then your starter will spin much faster. http://www.jatonkam35s.com/CUCVTechn...als/1M-128.pdf While you are down there, make a custom 2g/0g battery cable to the solenoid.

Larger positive, cross over, and negative battery cables, 2g/0g will allow the electrical system to work easier.
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Old 09-18-2016, 02:32 PM   #10 (permalink)
YoungGunDiesel
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It actually has a brand new starter and what looks like home made big cables. But I'll verify if the correct starter is even installed. But I do have grim news and it looks like my injection pump is bad. I cracked all the lines to make sure no air and for laughs and giggles I wanted to see what pressure the lines made so I took one off a injector completely and turned it over and it just spits out a tiny drop in a very pathetic manner every now and then. I'm assuming there is no way this is enough pressure to work the injector

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