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6.5L Diesel Engine Discuss the 6.5 GM diesel engine & associated components. Automatic transmission questions & problems belong in the 4L80/85 - 4L60E - 6L90 Transmission Forum

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Old 09-26-2016, 10:42 AM   #51 (permalink)
jrsavoie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YoungGunDiesel2 View Post
Do you do that to both batteries or just a specific one?
I'm not sure exactly what your question is.

I do the battery bolt mod on both batteries - I get rid of the battery csb;r bolts and install 1 1/4" or 1 1/2" stainless 3/8-16 Allen screws in the batteries.

If I am re-using the OEM cables - not so much anymore - I am replacing the original cables as a maintenance issue - I put 3 stainless washers inside the rubbers so I do not ave to cut them off - then Use a 3/8" nut to secure the cables to the battery>

If the Allen screws are tapered, I cut the ends straight. The tapered ends will strip out.

The alternator has a cable going to one battery already. I find another OEM cable off of about any vehicle and run it to the other battery.

The extra cable makes a noticeable difference. Others just add a bigger cable and fuse. M way is cheaper easier and faster. Both ways work.

I add several grounds. One from the right / Passenger side to the frame. There is no reason that you could not add the ground from the other battery to anyplace else on the frame.

I also add a body ground on the right side to the battery box bolt - to augment or replace the screw ground on the inner fender.

I use a lot of baking soda on the battery boxes before installing the batteries.

I add a ground from the heater blower to the dash mount bolt just a few inches away and to the stud at the back of the engine where all the little grounds go. I use 10 ga stranded wire for the added grounds.

Here is a good thread on battery cables
https://www.dieselplace.com/forum/63-...-93-6-5-a.html

__________________
98 GMC Suburban 2500 6.5 4x4 160,000 mi, Fluidamper, remote PMD, FS2500
96 GMC 6.5 Suburban 1500 4x4 200,000 mi; Fluidamper, remote PMD, Amsoil bypass, K47 air filter
95 Tahoe 2 door 4x4 6.5 200,000 mi; Fluidamper, Amsoil bypass filter, remote PMD, K47 air filter
1989 GMC Sierra 2500 2wd 5 spd get-rag trans had 108,000 mi. in 92 when the odometer broke. 6-800,000 miles on the truck. Installed a GM crate 6.5 non-turbo in 2000 about 300,000 miles on the motor, original IP
95 Chevy 2500 xtra-cab 2wd 6.5 190,000 miles,
91 international 4700 low pro, spicer 6 speed, DTA 360 with 18' van box 500,000 miles plus.
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Old 09-26-2016, 10:54 AM   #52 (permalink)
YoungGunDiesel
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrsavoie View Post
I'm not sure exactly what your question is.

I do the battery bolt mod on both batteries - I get rid of the battery csb;r bolts and install 1 1/4" or 1 1/2" stainless 3/8-16 Allen screws in the batteries.

If I am re-using the OEM cables - not so much anymore - I am replacing the original cables as a maintenance issue - I put 3 stainless washers inside the rubbers so I do not ave to cut them off - then Use a 3/8" nut to secure the cables to the battery>

If the Allen screws are tapered, I cut the ends straight. The tapered ends will strip out.

The alternator has a cable going to one battery already. I find another OEM cable off of about any vehicle and run it to the other battery.

The extra cable makes a noticeable difference. Others just add a bigger cable and fuse. M way is cheaper easier and faster. Both ways work.

I add several grounds. One from the right / Passenger side to the frame. There is no reason that you could not add the ground from the other battery to anyplace else on the frame.

I also add a body ground on the right side to the battery box bolt - to augment or replace the screw ground on the inner fender.

I use a lot of baking soda on the battery boxes before installing the batteries.

I add a ground from the heater blower to the dash mount bolt just a few inches away and to the stud at the back of the engine where all the little grounds go. I use 10 ga stranded wire for the added grounds.

Here is a good thread on battery cables
https://www.dieselplace.com/forum/63-...-93-6-5-a.html
I'm sorry I was quite vague with my question, but you did guess right on what I was asking, I seen you wrote that you add another ground from the battery to the frame and I was curious if you just meant one battery and if so what one or if you meant both batteries. But your answer was above and beyond what I expected for a answer and I thank you for that but currently I just converted them to top post since the PO murdered the battery cables so at this time I cannot re-do them in the manner which that guide describes. Also I shall keep fixing and adding grounds on the truck but just for laughs and giggles I will also be changing out the starter in it. The PO put a remanded napa premium in it and it's dated 7/27/2016 which makes it only 2 months old but the positive cable that runs to it gets extremely hot to the touch after you turn over the truck a little and the starter it's self was still hot 20mins after it was last used when I went to remove it and I touched it to hold it while I unbolted it. (I do not crank for long periods of time, very short bursts after 5min cool down times) so along with new and fixed grounds, new matching big batteries and a new remand starter, in theory it should whip over at least as fast as OEM standards go right? Or is there something else I'm over looking?

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Old 09-26-2016, 11:04 AM   #53 (permalink)
OkDually
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YoungGunDiesel2 View Post
I'm sorry I was quite vague with my question, but you did guess right on what I was asking, I seen you wrote that you add another ground from the battery to the frame and I was curious if you just meant one battery and if so what one or if you meant both batteries. But your answer was above and beyond what I expected for a answer and I thank you for that but currently I just converted them to top post since the PO murdered the battery cables so at this time I cannot re-do them in the manner which that guide describes. Also I shall keep fixing and adding grounds on the truck but just for laughs and giggles I will also be changing out the starter in it. The PO put a remanded napa premium in it and it's dated 7/27/2016 which makes it only 2 months old but the positive cable that runs to it gets extremely hot to the touch after you turn over the truck a little and the starter it's self was still hot 20mins after it was last used when I went to remove it and I touched it to hold it while I unbolted it. (I do not crank for long periods of time, very short bursts after 5min cool down times) so along with new and fixed grounds, new matching big batteries and a new remand starter, in theory it should whip over at least as fast as OEM standards go right? Or is there something else I'm over looking?
If you are replacing the starter be sure to put the starter support bracket back in place or.. If the starter support bracket is missing,
install one ASAP! or you will damage the engine block possibly to the point of having to replace the engine.
__________________
1996 K3500 6.5L,( "F" Eng #141 cast block) 5 speed manual, crewcab, dually longbed: 208,000mi.
Diamond Eye 4" Turbo Back Exhaust w/2.5" Flo-Pro Crossover
AirDog II DF165 w/ tank sock delete - XDP
TD-Max boost controller - Kennedy Diesel
OPS extension hose - Leroy Diesel
Glow Plug Harness- PT Wiring Solutions
Glowshift Maxtow EGT,Boost, Fuel gauges
Boost & Fuel Pressure Bolts - Leroy Diesel
2/0 Battery Cable Upgrade - PT Wiring Solutions
PMD w/#9 resistor and Re-Location Kit, mounted to bumper - Leroy Diesel
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4.10 gear ratio
OptiLube Winter Formula


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Old 09-26-2016, 11:10 AM   #54 (permalink)
YoungGunDiesel
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OkDually View Post
If you are replacing the starter be sure to put the starter support bracket back in place or.. If the starter support bracket is missing,
install one ASAP! or you will damage the engine block possibly to the point of having to replace the engine.
Won't lie, I'm quite fimiliar with that bracket due to the fact my last 6.5 didn't have it and when I took the starter out it just kinda fell out when I took the two bolts out.

Well this past weekend when I took this starter out I was baffled it didn't just come right on out, woundered if it was stuck on something or caught up.....yup...it was still bolted in by that bracket. So I removed that as well. So I'll definitely be putting it back in. But it does look like someone took the time to replace it last time. Was mounted with brand new studs and nuts.

Am I wrong in thinking something is up with the starter by hot hot the positive cable got and how hot the starter itself was?

Also I notice this thread is getting very lengthily and jumping around, shall I be making new topic posts for each separate question or just keep using this thread?

My opinion was keep using this thread since everything can be followed along in one place but I'm not fimilair with using these sites so I don't really know what people prefer.
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Old 09-26-2016, 11:28 AM   #55 (permalink)
OkDually
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YoungGunDiesel2 View Post
Won't lie, I'm quite fimiliar with that bracket due to the fact my last 6.5 didn't have it and when I took the starter out it just kinda fell out when I took the two bolts out.

Well this past weekend when I took this starter out I was baffled it didn't just come right on out, woundered if it was stuck on something or caught up.....yup...it was still bolted in by that bracket. So I removed that as well. So I'll definitely be putting it back in. But it does look like someone took the time to replace it last time. Was mounted with brand new studs and nuts.

Am I wrong in thinking something is up with the starter by hot hot the positive cable got and how hot the starter itself was?

Also I notice this thread is getting very lengthily and jumping around, shall I be making new topic posts for each separate question or just keep using this thread?

My opinion was keep using this thread since everything can be followed along in one place but I'm not fimilair with using these sites so I don't really know what people prefer.
Since your cables are so hacked up I would highly consider just replacing them all for best results..

The electrical current is making the starter struggle and the starter is overworking and getting hot.
The least resistance for the starter, the better

As for the thread.. Rule of thumb is to try and keep it on one topic per thread.
so it makes it easy to follow through when others are looking for a similar issue.
__________________
1996 K3500 6.5L,( "F" Eng #141 cast block) 5 speed manual, crewcab, dually longbed: 208,000mi.
Diamond Eye 4" Turbo Back Exhaust w/2.5" Flo-Pro Crossover
AirDog II DF165 w/ tank sock delete - XDP
TD-Max boost controller - Kennedy Diesel
OPS extension hose - Leroy Diesel
Glow Plug Harness- PT Wiring Solutions
Glowshift Maxtow EGT,Boost, Fuel gauges
Boost & Fuel Pressure Bolts - Leroy Diesel
2/0 Battery Cable Upgrade - PT Wiring Solutions
PMD w/#9 resistor and Re-Location Kit, mounted to bumper - Leroy Diesel
GM-5 Turbocharger
4.10 gear ratio
OptiLube Winter Formula


Proud member #1039 of The 3500 Dually Club

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Old 09-26-2016, 11:30 AM   #56 (permalink)
YoungGunDiesel
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OkDually View Post
Since your cables are so hacked up I would highly consider just replacing them all for best results..

The electrical current is making the starter struggle and the starter is overworking and getting hot.
The least resistance for the starter, the better

As for the thread.. Rule of thumb is to try and keep it on one topic per thread.
so it makes it easy to follow through when others are looking for a similar issue.
Ah, well then I probably should end this topic know cause my original posting question has been solved by you guys.

Thanks and talk to you guys later when I make a new topic when I go back to working on it
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Old 09-26-2016, 11:47 AM   #57 (permalink)
jrsavoie
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I would make or buy new cables before you proceed. Take your starter in to be tested. If it's good I would re-use it.

In future, be picky about electrical parts for your 6.5. Check the starter threads

I also sometimes add a white ground from the battery all the way back to the trailer plug
__________________
98 GMC Suburban 2500 6.5 4x4 160,000 mi, Fluidamper, remote PMD, FS2500
96 GMC 6.5 Suburban 1500 4x4 200,000 mi; Fluidamper, remote PMD, Amsoil bypass, K47 air filter
95 Tahoe 2 door 4x4 6.5 200,000 mi; Fluidamper, Amsoil bypass filter, remote PMD, K47 air filter
1989 GMC Sierra 2500 2wd 5 spd get-rag trans had 108,000 mi. in 92 when the odometer broke. 6-800,000 miles on the truck. Installed a GM crate 6.5 non-turbo in 2000 about 300,000 miles on the motor, original IP
95 Chevy 2500 xtra-cab 2wd 6.5 190,000 miles,
91 international 4700 low pro, spicer 6 speed, DTA 360 with 18' van box 500,000 miles plus.
NRA Life Member for over 30 years
Vote Freedom First
1994 chev K3500, FS2500 bypass filter, remore PMD, K47 air filter

Last edited by jrsavoie; 09-26-2016 at 11:55 AM.
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